When most of us who live in the San Francisco Bay Area mention Chinatown, everyone always assumes it is the Chinatown in San Francisco. From the hidden treasures in little shops, to the gigantic Chinese New Year Parade, San Francisco’s Chinatown has both charm, history, and a plethora of entertaining options. Several restaurants have achieved world wide fame, and several residents have become famous as well. But for simplicity, ease of access, and old world charm, I prefer Oakland’s Chinatown.
This sixteen square block area is much smaller, but easily walkable for a morning or afternoon exploration. BART stops about two blocks away, as does the AC Transit bus. Freeway 880 borders the west side of Chinatown. A central hub has emerged in recent years, the Pacific Renaissance Plaza, a multi story complex of retail shops, restaurants, and residential units, with a huge underground parking complex underneath. It is the preferred place to park when visiting. The Plaza also contains the Oakland Asian Cultural Center, and the Asian branch of the Oakland Public Library.
Most of the signage in the area contains English and Cantonese languages. Several businesses that originated before the age of bilingualism only have Chinese characters on neon signs that no longer work. The courtyard in the center of the Plaza is a good place to meet people, or just take a short rest while dining and shopping. One word to the wise, avoid Saturdays, particularly the mornings. This is market day for most locals, and double parking is not only prevalent, it is expected and never ticketed by the police or parking enforcement.
Chinatown has also attracted, much like other Chinatowns across the United States, other Asian residents, such as Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese, and Cambodian. In some cases, some Chinatowns, like Los Angeles, have been transformed several times, going from primarily Chinese, to Korean, then to Vietnamese. Often times, the signage remains. Many businesses will continue to operate under the name on the neon sign. A prime example in San Francisco is the excellent restaurant, operating under its prior business name, the R & G Lounge. Most out of towners would never know this place has great clay pots and maybe the best salt and pepper crab in the area.
Walking tours of Oakland Chinatown are presented by Tour 5, and begin at 10am in front of the Pacific Renaissance Plaza fountain on selected Wednesdays and Saturdays. Call (510) 238-3234, or email at aallen@oaklandnet.com.
Interestingly, the arrival of the Chinese to the area coincided with the discovery of gold in 1848 in Sacramento, about 100 miles northeast of Oakland. The Chinese took low paying jobs, building things like Temescal Dam and Lake Chabot Dam. Many became cooks, gardeners, houseboys, and laundrymen. Some made cigars, farmed the fertile East Bay lands, and helped developed the seafood industry in the area. Another little known fact is the great San Francisco earthquake of 1906 forced thousands of Chinese to leave San Francisco. And they ended up staying in Oakland.
As Chinatown grew, the complex society of Chinese communities evolved. In the 1920s, the family associations evolved and took control of local business, tongs, civil rights, and ultimately, crime. Chinatown stayed in a relatively provincial mode until World War 2 forced greater integration into Oakland, and created a Chinese middle class. After the war, Chinese were able to buy homes in previously segregated areas of Oakland and the Greater East Bay. Then from relative dormancy of the 60s and 70s, Chinatown’s rebirth was led by immigrants from Southeast Asia.
So, while 8th and Webster Streets are considered the heart of Chinatown, the area is much more, and the people have sprouted out to areas and communities all over the East Bay. But there are no other Chinatowns to speak of, whether in San Jose, Fremont, Palo Alto, or Berkeley. At one time, Solano Avenue in Albany was a likely landing spot for a “new” Chinatown. But as more upscale businesses moved in, rents went up, the boomers took over, and the area became quite heterogeneous and multi-ethnic.
Some of the progress or lack thereof in Chinatown never seems to deter either the locals or the tourists. It is still a big draw for traditional Chinese weddings, birthdays, red egg parties, anniversaries, and funerals. While Oakland does not have the big parade, ala San Francisco, I defy you to get a table for 8 during the Chinese New Year celebration period. And no matter the holiday or time of day, there is always a cafe or restaurant open to serve you. It could be a Chinese bakery, a noodle joint, or a sit down meal.
Many famous people have come from or resided in this small area. These include: Bruce Lee, Amy Tan, Fred Korematsu, Dong Kingman, March Fong-Eu, Ben Fong-Torres, and Maxine Hong Kingston. Not often mentioned is the fact that Chinese and other Asians stayed in this area due to discrimination in the more mainstream areas of Oakland. But what would Chinatown be if we did not see little old Chinese ladies scurrying around, buying groceries, and lighting up a Marlboro on the street corners? Life here, for many immigrants, follows the same lifestyle as the large cities like Hong Kong and Taiwan.
One of my favorite places to stop is the grocery store, any grocery store, since they carry many of the same items. Once you walk past the fresh produce on the sidewalks, enter into a world so different from a traditional American grocery. Many items will not have a price, or a single word of English. Some items will look rather grotesque, or reek of strange and pungent odors. But there is treasure there for everyone, all ages and shapes. The candy and cookie section alone will fill your shopping basket. The kitchen utensil area will make you wonder how you got by all these years with just a spatula and a grater.
My first time in Oakland’s Chinatown was back in the 60s, when I was a freshman at Cal. Some guys I met in the adjacent dormitory on campus asked me if I wanted to go for a late night snack while we were studying. I assumed we would walk down to Telegraph Avenue and have a pizza or hot sandwich. Rather, we drove through the cities of Berkeley, and Oakland, and ended up in Chinatown. We first bought some 2 liter sodas at the Chinese grocery, then headed in to the original location of the Silver Dragon. Believe me, it did not live up to its more elegant name.
Silver Dragon was on the south side of Webster, in a small, narrow wooden building. Up against the walls on both sides were old fashioned booth separated by stained and soiled maroon drapes. At that point, I realized I had never ordered Chinese food on my own, only with my family while growing up. I quickly perused the menu so that I would be ready to order when my turn came up. We were not ordering “family style” since we were a bunch of poor and hungry college students. I finally saw something I recognized, it was roasted peanut duck over rice. Boy, were they impressed that I ordered something so sophisticated and delicious!
As the school year went on, we returned many times. Often, it was after a baseball game or practice over in Alameda. It was great fun, being there with my buddies, heavy workout completed, not a care in the world (at that moment), and lots of food and a 2 liter soda to boot. Life was good. Now if only I could get a date for Saturday night!
But I digress. The Silver Dragon ultimately was demolished, and moved into a sleek three story building across the street. It had full banquet facilities, and full bar, and real restaurant tables, chairs, and decor. Time had taken the old, and made it new. Never again could we bring the 2 liter soda onto the premises. We would return only for weddings and reunions on the upper floors. For us, Chinatown would be forever changed.
Bottom line, the food here is as good as San Francisco, though perhaps not quite as varied. It is certainly less expensive, more easily accessible, and certainly more personal in service and atmosphere. Look at it this way. They buy their ingredients from the same wholesalers across the freeway in the produce district. If anything, it is fresher, having made the 4 block trip in 10 minutes, versus the Bay Bridge trip to San Francisco in one hour. And the area is also safer than San Francisco. You must go!
Archives
All posts for the month September, 2010
A is for Autobahn, a truly exciting and frightful experience the first time on the German superhighways. A could also be for Amsterdam, the wildest city in the world, where anything and anybody can be bought and sold. Of course, Amazonia could outshine anyplace on earth for its riches of forest, animals, plant life, and pure adventure. Don’t forget the lovely and peaceful Algarve, on the Atlantic coast of Portugal, a wonderland of golf, good food, wine, and nice people. I almost forgot the magnificent ruins of Angkor Wat, perhaps my favorite place in the entire world.
B is for Bangkok, almost on a par with Amsterdam, certainly more exotic, always fun, and very affordable. Also, home to the best medical care in the world. B could also be for Boston, another great city with great sights, tradition, patriotic history, the Red Sox and Fenway, and lobster rolls. Add Berlin, before it became unified, truly an experience crossing through Checkpoint Charlie and the Berlin Wall. And don’t forget the romantic and diabolical Buenos Aires, one of the great cities of the world, classy and fun, energetic and lazy all at once. Bandon Dunes, OR has four of the best golf courses among the top 100 in the world.
C is for Chicago, the second city is the first city in my book, with interesting neighborhoods, Wrigley Field, Garrett’s Popcorn and Rush Street. C could also be Chiang Mai, northern Thailand’s city with a soul, famous night markets, nearby jungle treks, and the slow and easy life along with Ping River. Please don’t forget the nude female sunbathers on the Costa del Sol, my personal vote for best scenery on any beach in the world. Costa Rica is a great place to see nature, to zip line over the rainforest, and to see the most beautiful colors of blue in the entire world.
D is for District of Columbia, home of our nation’s capitol, great restaurants, the Smithsonian Museums, Georgetown, and famous 4th of July concert and fireworks. Death Valley is one of the driest places in the world, and the lowest elevation in the U.S. Dornach has a great golf course in Scotland, on a par with some of the great U.K. courses. Dunedin, on New Zealand’s South Island, has more sheep than people, and some great vineyards producing world class wines.
E is for the Everglades, a most unique and abundant national park in Florida. But it could also be Everest, viewed from a sightseeing plane taking off from the ancient Kathmandu airport. Edinburgh, Scotland is home to the famous Fringe Festival, and a most respected University. Eugene, OR is known as Track City, USA, and home to Nike’s Oregon University.
The last total solar eclipse was on January 15, 2010.
B is for Bangkok, almost on a par with Amsterdam, certainly more exotic, always fun, and very affordable. Also, home to the best medical care in the world. B could also be for Boston, another great city with great sights, tradition, patriotic history, the Red Sox and Fenway, and lobster rolls. Add Berlin, before it became unified, truly an experience crossing through Checkpoint Charlie and the Berlin Wall. And don’t forget the romantic and diabolical Buenos Aires, one of the great cities of the world, classy and fun, energetic and lazy all at once. Bandon Dunes, OR has four of the best golf courses among the top 100 in the world.
C is for Chicago, the second city is the first city in my book, with interesting neighborhoods, Wrigley Field, Garrett’s Popcorn and Rush Street. C could also be Chiang Mai, northern Thailand’s city with a soul, famous night markets, nearby jungle treks, and the slow and easy life along with Ping River. Please don’t forget the nude female sunbathers on the Costa del Sol, my personal vote for best scenery on any beach in the world. Costa Rica is a great place to see nature, to zip line over the rainforest, and to see the most beautiful colors of blue in the entire world.
D is for District of Columbia, home of our nation’s capitol, great restaurants, the Smithsonian Museums, Georgetown, and famous 4th of July concert and fireworks. Death Valley is one of the driest places in the world, and the lowest elevation in the U.S. Dornach has a great golf course in Scotland, on a par with some of the great U.K. courses. Dunedin, on New Zealand’s South Island, has more sheep than people, and some great vineyards producing world class wines.
E is for the Everglades, a most unique and abundant national park in Florida. But it could also be Everest, viewed from a sightseeing plane taking off from the ancient Kathmandu airport. Edinburgh, Scotland is home to the famous Fringe Festival, and a most respected University. Eugene, OR is known as Track City, USA, and home to Nike’s Oregon University.
The last total solar eclipse was on January 15, 2010.
F is for Freeport, Maine, the home of the flagship L.L. Bean store, truly part of Americana. F could also be Fairbanks, Alaska, our fiftieth state, and home to our largest oil supply and reindeer sausage. Frontier Days in Cheyenne, WY is a cowboy celebration bar none. Faro, Portugal, at the southern tip of the Algarve, offers wine, golf, leather goods, and a seaport. Florence, one of the grand old cities of Europe, is also a good name for any female born prior to 1930.
G is for the Great Barrier Reef, truly the world’s largest living organism, visible from space, and a magnificent sight to behold. G is also Granville Island, home to Vancouver’s fresh food and produce, art galleries, bakeries, eclectic shops, and great views of the City and False Creek. All G’s must include the Grand Canyon, in Arizona. Most of you do not know a gauss is a unit of magnetic flux density equal to 1/10000 tesla; Tesla is the name of the new all electric car being made at the old NUMI plant in Fremont.
H is for Hawaii, my home away from home, its great local food and customs, the great golf courses, my wonderful friends, and great natural beauty. The Vietnamese city of Hanoi is as much French colonial as it is SE Asian, with culturally blended food, fashion and architecture. Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon, is a huge metropolis in South Vietnam.
Hollywood, CA is home to many movie studios, recording companies, and many cross dressers who left San Francisco for warmer weather. Hong Kong proved to be a very underrated city, full of shopping, culture, nightlife, snake lunches, and lots of people who dye their hair.
I is for Indianapolis, and its famous Indy 500 Auto Race. Idaho is home to more millionaires than any other state, and the famous floating island green at Couer d’Alene. Ipanema Beach, Brazil, is home to skimpy bikinis, coconut water, street parking attendants, and sand sculptures that belong in museums. Island in the Sky, in Canyonlands National Park, is best viewed from a sightseeing plane, and home to wild horses, as well as Butch Cassidy.
J is for my mother country, Japan, where my grandparents were born, where I finally visited last year, and the famous Tsukiji Fish Market, Harajuku, the Ginza, and the great shabu shabu. J is also for Jackson Hole, WY, home of great skiing, and cowboys who got lost. What about the Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County?
K is for Kathmandu, one of the poorest but most interesting cities in all of SE Asia or the world. The multi ethnic city of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia is home to the Petronas Twin Towers, and our dear friend, Angela. K is also for the Kentucky Derby, in Louisville, KY, home to the most exciting two minutes in sports. Kohler, WI is home to Whistling Straits, where the recent PGA golf tournament was stolen from Dustin Johnson. Kennebunkport, ME is a cute little New England town, home to Bush 41’s summer home.
L is for Laos, one of the most under visited and under rated countries in the world, with great food, friendly people, rich culture, and interesting customs. Along with under rated, the city of London, remains a secret despite being a jumping off point for the rest of European travel. Home to Wimbledon, Harrod’s, Hyde Park, Royal Albert Hall, London offers something for everyone. The island of Langkawi, off of northern Malaysia, is home to five star resorts like the fabulous Datai. Las Vegas will always be a favorite place for my Mom, and most of my relatives. I like it for the shopping, food, and dear friends, Ken and Debbie.
M is for Mendoza, Argentina, home to great food and many wineries, wide open spaces, crazy middle of the night phone calls, and aggressive women. But, do not forget Machu Picchu, the Inca city high in the Andes, still an architectural marvel after all these years. Another of my favorite places is Munich, Germany, home to the Oktoberfest, and the craziest beer guzzling people I have ever known. And the beautiful arches and canyons near Moab are unmatched anywhere in the world. Milford Sound should be one of the world’s great natural wonders. I love Montreal for its great food, delicious bakeries, fireworks competition, and the French feel without the French attitude.
N is for Nagoya, Japan, the hometown of my grandfather’s family, as well as Noritake and Toyota. The Newseum is Washington, DC’s newest museum, with artifacts from the most newsworthy events. Nawlins, LA is a great place for gumbo, po’ boys, bananas Foster, beignets, and the Viuex Carre’. What about NUDE sun bathing on Black’s Beach in San Diego or the Costa del Sol in Spain?
O is for Lake Okanagan, in British Columbia, home to a great wine region, superb ice cream, and the annual Penticton Elvis festival. I hate to admit that I have been to Oklahoma City once upon a time. But Orlando is home to Epcot and Disney World, as well as numerous fine golf courses. Osaka, Japan is known at Japan’s second city, a foodie capital, and an industrial giant of a city.
P is for the island of Penang, off of Malaysia, the undisputed foodie capitol of SE Asia. Home of some of the great yachts and luxury boats of the world, Puerto Banus, Spain, close to some of the great golf courses of Spain, and the fabulous topless optional beaches. Pucon, Chile is a small town that looks a little Bavarian, a little Chilean, with lots of stray dogs. Pebble Beach, CA is heaven on earth, at least for us golfers.
Q is for Queenstown, New Zealand, home to the original bungee jump, breath taking jet boating, and the friendliest people on earth. Queens, New York is home to the U. S. Open Tennis Championships. Queensland, Australia, the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef, had some of the best sushi, kangaroo, and emu I have ever eaten. The province of Quebec has often threatened to secede from Canada, now that would be comical! I got to play a quena, a vertical bamboo flute from the Andes in Chile.
R is for fabulous, romantic, and titillating Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, home to the samba, the famous churascarias, the eclectic Hippie Faire, and the Girl from Ipanema. Red Rocks Amphitheater, just outside of Denver, is home to some of the best summer music in the country. Redding, CA is home to the famous Sundial Bridge, designed by Spanish architect, Santiago Calatrava. Rome captures your heart and your imagination, in ways that you never realize. And the Sistine Chapel is a religious experience. Ronda, Spain is known as a white town, high above the Costa del Sol, known for its famous black hoofed jamon and the oldest bull fighting ring in Spain.
S is for Seattle, my favorite place for dining, shopping and visiting friends. The great Seattle Public Library, the Uwajimaya Super Store, the Experience Music Project, and Pike Market are just some of the attractions. No list is complete without a mention of the world’s favorite city, Sydney, home of the iconic Sydney Opera House, huge Chinatown, magnificent architecture, and former Olympics venue. Sedona, AZ is a place where vortexes and cosmic energy seem to converge in the beautiful red rocks of the region.
T is for one of the most exciting and expensive cities in the world, Tokyo, where the food is fantastic, the fish plentiful, the fashion flawless, and the Shinkansen (bullet train) superbly fast and efficient. Our nearby Lake Tahoe, is both a winter and summer wonderland, with boating, skiing, cycling, hiking, and golf. Tangiers, Morocco is an out of this world experience, with Berbers trying to sell things you do not need, and snake charmers on every corner. Tony’s Fashion House, our tailor in Bangkok, made our wonderful outfits for dear Ingrid’s wedding.
U is for Ushuaia, Argentina, the southernmost city in the world, located on the island if Tierra del Fuego. It is surprisingly stylish, home to wealthy Argentinean skiers, and all you can eat lamb and beef joints. The famous Union Oyster House, in Boston, America’s oldest restaurant and favorite of John F. Kennedy. Many of our great Universities in this country are worth a visit, like Harvard and MIT. Up and coming U Street in Washington, DC is home to one of President Obama’s favorite eateries, Ben’s Chili Bowl.
V is for Vina del Mar and Valapraiso, on the central Chilean coast. It is the place where Santiago natives go to beat the summer heat, eat fresh seafood, and stroll along the beach. Vancouver is home to the best Chinese food in the world, lots of great seafood, Stanley Park, and the most recent Winter Olympics. I spent many a day and night in Vail, CO skiing and conducting continuing education classes, sometimes in a conference room, sometimes in the hot tub. The famous Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam is one of my favorite art museums in the entire world, sans ear lobe of course.
W is for Wimbledon, England, aka the All England Lawn Tennis Club, home of the greatest tennis championship, and a truly wonderful fan experience. Standing in line, talking to strangers from all over the world, for 3 hours for a grounds pass is as much fun as the tennis itself. Washington, DC has so much to offer the tourist, young and old, walking or riding, with great food, including my personal favorite for fish, Ten Penh. Winters in the Rockies and Sierras produced many great ski trips, and a few winning ski races.
X is for Xieng Kouang, Laos, home to the Plain of Jars, in the middle of thousands of bomb craters our CIA left there during the Vietnam War. (You thought I would come up empty, didn’t you?) The Mystery Spot in Santa Cruz is marked with an “X”, perhaps due to its dielectric biocosmic radiation, whatever that is. I have been accused of having xenodocheionology , which is a love of hotels. I have eaten xylan, the gelatinous compound found in wood, when I was in the Amazon.
Y is for Yosemite National Park, the dream of John Muir, and the place where I bought my lifetime pass to the National Park System. And of course, nearby Yountville, CA is home to many great restaurants, including the 3 star French Laundry of Thomas Keller. Yoni is symbol of what I observed in Spain, female genitalia. And I plan to go to Yellowstone National Park later this year or next. London’s Scotland Yard is their version of the CIA, Interpol, and the KGB, nonetheless an impressive edifice.
Z is for Zion National Park, just outside of St. George, Utah, and truly one of the most unique of our national parks. Zurich, Switzerland is home to the best Grand Marnier soufflé I have ever had. And where else but on St. Louis’ famous Italian neighborhood, “The Hill”, can you find the best zabaglione, a frothy custard dessert. And I love the Zanella slacks available at Nordstrom stores in Seattle and Las Vegas. The world famous San Diego Zoo houses many unique and interesting animals, including the Pandas from Asia. Every time is use a pair of Japanese zoris, I think of the great trip to Japan and thank my ancestors for starting a new life here.
I have been fortunate to travel to each of the places in “ABC’s of Travel”.
That would be Locke, as in California, the small hamlet in the Delta, not far from the Bay Area. Locke was founded in 1915, after a fire broke out in the Chinese section of nearby Walnut Grove. A committee of Chinese merchants led by Lee Bing, Chan Hing Sai, Tom Wai, Chan Dai Kee, Ng So Hat, Chan Wai Lum, Chow Hou Bun, and Suen Dat Suin was formed. They approached a landowner by the name of George Locke, to ask if they could build on his land. They made an agreement and the rest, as they say, is history. By 1920, Locke appeared exactly as it does today.
The Chinese came to the area for levee construction. But by the time Locke was established, the work was mostly in farm labor. But Locke had many businesses that catered to the Chinese workers and other residents of the region. In the 1940s, Locke had bakeries, restaurants, herb shops, fish markets, gambling halls, boarding houses, brothels, schools, grocery, clothing stores, and the famous Star theater. The peak was 600 residents, with as many as 1500 occupants in the town.
On October 2, 1970, Locke was added to the registry of national historic places. It is the only town in the United States built by the Chinese for the Chinese. But now, Locke is neither a tourist trap nor a ghost town. But it does have an out of the way charm. But the Chinese population is down to about ten, and the total population is between 70 and 80 people. I actually know a man who was born and raised in Locke. His name is William K. Tom, who became a pharmacist, with whom I worked in the 70s. He was quite proud of the fact that he and his family survived the Great Depression on rice and home grown vegetables.
My Grandfather often enjoyed fishing on the Delta when I was a kid. My uncles complained that he often wanted to stay in the old boarding houses along the Sacramento River when they towed the boat up to the Delta from the San Joaquin Valley. the stories they told were hilarious, often centering around having to share a room with Grandpa and his loud snoring. But they always seemed to come home with some really nice Striped Bass. I went a few times when I was in junior high, but never stayed overnight. I guess they figured these semi flop houses were not appropriate for children!
The asparagus boom was in full bloom in the 1920s. Perhaps my grandfather had come to this region to pick asparagus. Perhaps this is where is passion for fishing arose. Later in the 20s, gambling speakeasies, opium dens and prostitution flourished. The Chinese owned Star theater showed black and white silent films. A Chinese herbalist dispensed medicine and medical advice. There were six restaurants and nine grocery stores. It was shortly after World War 2 that the Chinese population began to erode.
Perhaps one of the most famous places in town was “Al, the Wops”, constructed in 1915 by Lee Bing and three partners. In 1934, Al Adami and his associate came over from nearby Ryde to establish the only Chinese business in town. Al started the tradition of cutting off neckties of his patrons since he considered them too formal. Better yet, he stirred the ladies’ drinks with is fingers! Al’s is famous for steak and pasta, and is still open 7 days a week.
A Hong Kong-based developer purchased the town in 1977 from the Locke Heirs and sold it in 2002 to the Sacramento Housing and Redevelopment Agency. In 2004, the agency finally allowed the sale of land to those who had been living on it for many years. There were plans to convert Locke into a housing development and tourist attraction. Plans are under way to use state and federal grant money to convert the boarding house (now owned by the California Department of State Parks) into a museum.
So, next time you decide to take a drive over toward the Delta, or have a steak at the famous Foster’s Bighorn in Rio Vista, give Locke a chance. And remember, my old Pal Bill Tom once roamed the streets there as a kid, before moving on to the University of California.
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