If you have been to Kauai, and have not driven the Waimea Canyon road, I strongly suggest that you do. While smaller, much, much smaller, than its big brother in Arizona, it is nevertheless a real feast for the eyes. It is only fourteen miles long, and two-thirds of a mile deep. Compared to the lush green of the Garden Isle, the rust colored cliffs and rocks stand out even more. It will definitely remind you of the American Southwest.

As you drive over from the south or east shore, where most people stay, including us, you will pass several cute little towns. Let me also say that you will pass the Kauai Cookie factory store in Hanapepe. The little beach town of Waimea is classic old Hawaii. From there, the drive goes upward to 4,000 feet above ocean level. Bring a light jacket since it is often cooler here, with periods of showers and misty blankets of fog.

Speaking of old Hawaii, Kauai is the island that most resembles old Hawaii. Traditions of aloha seem stronger here than elsewhere. People even drive in a more polite fashion here. But I do not feel safe out on the highways on my rented bicycle. I found a great network of service roads here in the Kauai Lagoons area, and adjacent to the Lihue Airport. I can get an hour ride by making the circuit about 3 times. I guess we are rather spoiled back home with the iron Horse Trail and the Contra Costa Canal Trail.

We were able to hit one of our island favorites today at lunch, the famous Hamura Saimin stand in downtown Lihue. Somehow, it survived Iniki. I doubt that the old shack meets even the most liberal ADA standards. In fact, I wonder if it meets even minimum health inspection standards. But their saimin bowls are the best in all of the islands. Add some chicken or beef skewers, and top it all with a slice of their homemade lillikoi (passion fruit) pie. Ichiban!

The best time, on almost all of the Hawaiian Islands is after a big rain, with numerous waterfalls and views of the Pacific. You will find respite at the Kokee Museum, while learning about the canyon’s wildlife and origins. Stop at the Lodge at Kokee for their specialty, the Portuguese bean soup, one of my personal island favorites. Just scrape off the fat from the sausage before consuming.

Perhaps the most stunning part of the drive is at the end of the road. The overlook at the Kalaulau Valley is both majestic, and wondrous. It might be windy, and cold, but well worth the short little walk from the parking lot. You can always stop for more soup on the way back!

I have probably done this drive a half-dozen times. Just make sure you slow down on the curves, and stop at every lookout point. Bring your camera, take lots of photos, and tell everyone back home you have seen both of our breathtaking Grand Canyons.

It is practically impossible to visit the island of Kauai and not drive up to the north shore area of Hanalei. It is one of the lushest and greenest places in the world. It has a population of 450 people. Hanalei means lei making in Hawaiian. It also means “crescent bay” perhaps due to the shape of Hanalei Bay itself. The little town, or rather village, sits at the mouth of the Hanalei River.

It is quite likely that the Russians were here before most anyone else. Then along came the German physician, Georg Anton Schaffer. He tried to retrieve goods that were confiscated by the Kauai chief, Kaumaulii. However, he made the mistake of getting involved in local politics, including the return of the kingdom of Kauai to the Chief, at the expense of King Kamehameha I. So, from 1817 to 1853, Fort Elizabeth, near the Waimea River, were part of tsarist Russian America.

Closer to today, this region was used as the backdrop for the movie, South Pacific in 1958. And the famous 1963 Peter, Paul, and Mary song, “Puff, the Magic Dragon” tells of Puff’s homeland of “Hanah Lee.” Metaphorically, the cliffs on the side of the beach look like a dragon. Some go as far as saying Hanalei produces the best marijuana on the island, thus the inclusion in the song. The line, “a dragon lives forever, but not so little boys”, implies that Jackie Paper dies.

I don’t see dragons or marijuana in Hanalei, but I do see taro farms, art galleries, and reminders of old Kauai. Taro, used most often to make the gooey, gelatinous poi, grows in abundance here. These heart-shaped leafy plants grow in flooded fields, much like rice. Perhaps nowhere is the patchwork of taro fields so prominent as from the Hanalei Valley lookout.

The Hanalei Valley is only one mile wide, and six miles long. It is the home of the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. Also of interest is the rather creaky old Hanalei Bridge. It is only a single lane, requiring some courtesy by drivers coming from either direction. And most importantly, it has a 15 ton limit! To make matters even more precarious, this area is also known as the wettest spot on earth with an annual rainfall of 460 inches!

Across from the lookout is the famous Princeville Resort and Princeville Center. This is about the only shopping area besides the little shops in the Hanalei Village itself. Originally, a man named R. C. Wylie started a coffee plantation back in 1853. Thought the coffee plantation failed, Princeville is the largest planned development on the island.

The big attraction for me has always been the world-famous Prince Golf Course, designed by Robert Trent Jones. Located along the dramatic coast, the first hole is a rather curious and difficult start to an otherwise beautiful round of golf. This is also where we met dear friends, Rey and Corinne over ten years ago. They say it is the No. 1 rated course in all of Hawaii. I am not so sure, but it is a beautiful setting, when it is not raining.

The drive only takes about half an hour from Kapaa. It is worth the drive, in any weather. After all, how many of your friends can say they have been to the wettest place on earth?

Kauai is the oldest, northernmost, and fourth largest of the Hawaiian islands. And many parts of Kauai are accessible only by air, or in some cases, water. But it is always the most beautiful of the islands, and a popular spot for movie makers and honeymooners. And hunters.

They say the first explorer to find Kauai was British explorer, Captain James Cook in 1778. He landed on the western coast, near Waimea Bay, and named the islands the Sandwich Isles, after the Earl of Sandwich. When King Kamehameha unified the islands, only Kauai set out to deter his efforts. Eventually, King Kaumualii decided to join peacefully with the rest of the Kingdom of Hawaii.

The population of Kauai is only 62,000. My bet is that our friends Rey and Corinne know at least 50% of the population. The island has only 552 square miles, so the likelihood of running into a friend or relatives must be high. The Wailua River, at 20 miles long, is the only navigable river in all of the islands.

Some famous people have second homes here. These include: Ben Stiller, Pierce Brosnan, Michael Crichton, Natalie Merchant, and Bette Midler (born here). A friend here has been the chef for Kevin Costner and Oprah when he/she lived here.

Basically, there is one road that nearly circles the island. If there is an accident during rush hour, the traffic is tied up for hours. In general, I stay off the roads at rush hour, or at least make sure that I am going against the commute traffic. This year, I may rent a bicycle to get around in the cool early mornings.

So, beware old Kauai. We plan to hit all of our favorites over the next week! Starting first with the our favorite sushi bar in the entire world, Kintaro. And with dear friends Rey and Corrine. It was old home week—-so great to see them!!!! Highlight of the trip.