Our trip to Katmandu, Nepal last March was highlighted by our local travel guide, Raj, and our flight to Mt. Everest. The magic and mystery of Everest has been written and filmed by many, including one of my favorite books, “Into Thin Air” by Jon Krakauer. The stories of Sir Edmund Hillary, and Tenzig Norgay have filled many books and magazines. We visited the famous Rum Doodle Bar and Restaurant, which commemorates Hillary’s success, and those who follow. Anyone making it to base camp (17,500 feet) gets to place their names on a large paper foot and posts it on the walls of the bar. Anyone making a successful climb to the summit gets free food for life! Sir Edmund’s autograph graces the centerpiece on the wall.
Before, we tell you about our flight, let’s learn a little more about Everest and why it draws all of us, in some manner, to its lofty, dangerous, and sacred summit. The basic: Everest was formed 60 million years ago, and is 29,065 feet tall, a full 6 inches higher than measured in 1999. It rises a few millimeters each year due to geological forces. The Nepalese name is Sagarmatha (goddess of the sky), and the Tibetan name is Chomolungma (mother goddess of the universe). It was named after Sir George Everest in 1865, the British surveyor general of India.
The summit ridge separates Tibet and Nepal. It was first bagged (summited) by Edmund Hillary, a beekeeper from New Zealand and Sherpa Tensing Norgay of Nepal, via the South Col route on May 29, 1953. About 120 corpses lay on the mountain, and the oldest to summit was 64, the youngest 15. The longest stay on top was 21.5 hours by a sherpa. To have lost a loved one on the mountain, and never find the body, must be a terrible and painful experience.
Buddha Air started in 1997 with just one brand new Beech 1900D at a cost of $5 million. They now have a total of five. Besides the flights over Everest, Buddha Air flies to many other Nepalese cities, like Pokhara, Bhadrapur, Nepaljunj, and Simara. It appeared most of the flights had American and European trekkers and trampers, rather than tourists like us, or locals. The aircraft can actually reach a height of 25,000 feet, and within five nautical miles of Everest. Each passenger has a window seat (and an aisle seat, ha-ha). All passengers get to walk into the cockpit several times during the flight for better views and panoramic photos. So much for 9-11 rules in Nepal!
So beautiful is the sight that one of our passengers actually said “I did not climb Everest, but I touched it with my heart!” With a view like this, it is very easy to see why Everest is the highest and most magical mountain in the world. As we flew over Everest, the Khumbu Valley, and the other nine magnificent peaks, we were stunned by the beauty and solitude of the region. I guess some would be moved to call it a religious experience. I would call it one of the most special moments in all of our travels. It rivals Angkor Wat, the Berlin Wall, The Grand Canyon, and St. Andrews in my estimation.
The flights over to Everest last about 90 minutes. But the wait was practically most of the morning due to foggy conditions near the mountain and in Katmandu. We waited in an old dilapidated hangar, converted to a waiting room. It had a very primitive toilet, and a simple snack bar. A few simple snacks, water, and soda could be purchased. Most people opted for the hot, brewed tea, made on the spot when ordered. We waited, and waited.
After several hours, a few of the ground crew outside started shuffling around. Then the flight crews left the building and boarded the planes. Our hopes were up. But by now, our flight, along with several other early morning flights were canceled or postponed. We were not sure we would be able to get a seat on a later flight. But we dared not move, as we were told to sit in a location where we could be found. As people were called to board, we waited. Finally, the man we bought the tickets from, grabbed us, and told us to hustle into the line. Hallelujah!!
We got to board the last or next to last plane. It was full of female Japanese tourists, and a few other Americans. We did not care, as we were on our way to see Everest. The cockpit did not have a door. A single flight attendant did not offer any information, other than “fasten your seat belts!” Before we knew it, our plane was waved to the front of a long line. On the way to the tarmac, we saw a rather large United Nations plane parked nearby. They were here to help monitor the coming elections, the first democratic election in history for Nepal.
Though it cleared, the air was cold and crisp. We actually had to wear our jackets in this sweltering country. As we flew over the countryside, our excitement mounted. We saw the beautiful farms and rice fields as we reached the foothills. Off in the distance, snow appeared on the peaks. We passed several well known landmarks, as we got to take turns in the cockpit. The ride was a little bumpy, and several passengers tripped and lost their balance.
Finally, Everest was off in the distance. Just about everyone on the plane stood to get a better look. The female Japanese tourists were about to have a stroke. The rest of us were calm, at least on the outside. It was as magnificent as we expected. The solo flight attendant made sure everyone knew where to look. The Japanese ladies were out of control, jumping around, standing on top of everyone else, and mumbling gibberish.
I was able to get plenty of great photos of Everest and the surrounding peaks. The Himalayas have over 100 mountains exceeding 7200 meters. The other well known peaks are K-2, Lhotse, Makula, and Annapurna(the deadliest mountain on earth). The Himalayas stretch across six countries in total, India, China, Nepal, Afghanistan, Bhutan, and Pakistan. The Himalayas also contain 15,000 glaciers, despite its proximity to the tropics.
As we turned back for Katmandu, we got to see more of the beautiful countryside and farms. Rice is grown on every piece of arable land. Food is a valuable commodity, as are water, meat, and fresh vegetables. But despite the lush green carpets beneath, we thought of all of those who have died in these famous mountains. Our guide, Raj, takes people on treks to Annapurna. He said mountain people are different from the rest of us. After viewing the vast and treacherous country, I am glad I am not one of those.
Back on mother Earth, the ground temperature was back to normal. The hot and humid air actually felt good for the first time. We were glad to be off of that small plane with only 15 seats. The trip was well worth the sardine conditions, though we were ecstatic that is was over. What a magnificent morning.
