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Many of you are shocked when I tell you we attended a talk by Tony Bourdain some years ago in Seattle. He had yet to start Parts Unknown on CNN, and was still using “No Reservations” as his vehicle for fame and fortune. Someone also gave me his book, “Kitchen Confidential” which was a perfect reflection of his often vulgar adventures through the culinary world.
But, as he morphed into “Parts Unknown”, he became more of an elder statesman, almost a sage, in the loosest sense of the word. He left a lasting impression on Seattle. Here is the article in the local Seattle paper, in case you missed it:
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Turning to his series “Parts Unknown” is never a bad choice, but particularly on the anniversary of his passing on Saturday, which marks one year since he died by suicide it seems a fitting way to …
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His visit was back in September, 2017. About Seattle, he said: Seattle is a town that likes talking about food, eating food and reading about food. We’re culturally rich and a town in transition, and that’s one of the reasons Bourdain chose to stop in.
I would agree that his choice of Seattle is a good one. We enjoy the food here, perhaps as much or more than anywhere else in the world. We love the fresh seafood, the farm to table concepts that began here have swept the restaurant world.
His perfect day in Seattle goes as follows: breakfast at Volunteer Park Cafe, a mid morning coffee at La Marzocco Cafe, a snack at Piroshky, Piroshky at Pike Market, lunch at Oriental Mart (Filipino). Then an afternoon coffee at Elm Coffee Roasters or The London Plane. Notice the coffee theme is quite heavy?
An afternoon snack is called for, at one of my favorite places, Uwajimaya, with a large bowl of pho at Dong Thap. It has four pounds of meat, four pounds of noodles, and four liters of broth! Then about 5pm, it is time for a brew at Georgetown Brewing Company or Machine House Brewery. Dinner is at a place I have yet to dine, the Corson Building, with a changing daily menu.
His other recommendations:
Pacific Island Pub (fish and chips)
Revel (new Asian)
Emerald Haze (cannabis)
Mamnoon (Syrian Lebanese)
Taylor Shellfish Oyster Bar
North Star Diner and shanghai Room
Ocho (tapas)
What I like about his choices is they are not stuffy. Most are newer types of cuisine and chefs. He is willing to give the new guys a chance. Hail the newbies!!!
Before you turn away in disgust at the title of my email, please keep reading a little more. After all, wedgie could be a wedge of lettuce, or a great piece of pie. And “waji” is the cute nickname for the most famous Pacific northwest area super duper market, called Uwajimaya. Easy for you to say?
The famous Uwajimaya is a high quality Asian supermarket with gift shop, and Japanese bookstore, all under one roof. They have been in business since 1928! And we visit EVERY time we are in Seattle, since it is so much fun.
From their company website: With over 400 employees, Uwajimaya is one of the largest Asian grocery retailers in the Pacific Northwest. Since 1928, Uwajimaya has evolved beyond providing basic grocery staples and become known as a tourist and destination store. Our reputation is built on being known as the information specialist on all things Asian and part of our mission is to educate the customer on all aspects of Asian culture. Uwajimaya’s pre-eminence among Asian stores comes from its use of modern technology, its emphasis on cleanliness and its adherence to its business philosophy.
Our mission is to be the premier destination to experience the richness of Asian culture and food. We strive to offer world-class quality and the widest variety of Asian foods. As an iconic, family owned business with deep roots in the Northwest’s Asian American community, we have a strong commitment to cultural sustainability and cross-cultural understanding across the Asian community and the community at large.
And their history is remarkable:In 1928, Fujimatsu Moriguchi, a native of Yawatahama, Japan began business in Tacoma, Washington. Moriguchi sold homemade fishcakes and other Japanese staples like soy sauce and rice from the back of his truck to Japanese laborers working in logging and fishing camps in the Puget Sound area. Moriguchi named his business Uwajima-ya, after the town of Uwajima where he learned his trade (”ya” means “store” in Japanese). His wife, Sadako, operated the small Uwajimaya store near downtown Tacoma.
Moriguchi continued to operate in Tacoma until the outbreak of World War II. Shortly after the signing of Executive Order 9066 in 1942, Moriguchi, his wife Sadako and their children were sent to the Tule Lake Internment Camp in California. After the war, the Moriguchi family relocated to Seattle and re-opened Uwajimaya as a retail store and fish cake manufacturing company on South Main Street at the south end of what was once Seattle’s pre-war Nihon-machi, or Japantown — just blocks away from the current International District store location. Uwajimaya thus resumed its business in the Nikkei (Japanese American) community by providing Japanese food items while starting the import of food and gift items from Japan.
In 1962, Seattle hosted the World’s Fair and it was during this time that Uwajimaya blossomed. Uwajimaya began its outreach to non-Japanese clientele offering fine gift products, kitchenware, and delicacies from Japan for all. Although the World’s Fair venture was a great success, sadly Mr. Moriguchi passed away during that summer. Now under the management of Fujimatsu’s four sons, Uwajimaya continued to develop and expand its customer base by catering to the needs of the shopper, which now included second and third generation Asian Americans as well as non-Asians. This outreach included offering Asian cooking classes and expanding the product mix to include items from other Asian countries such as China, Korea, and the Philippines.
In 1970, Uwajimaya moved two blocks south to a new 20,000 square foot store at 6th Avenue South and South King Street, becoming the largest Japanese supermarket in the Pacific Northwest. Eight years later another 16,000 square feet was added, accommodating new meat and produce sections, a deli counter serving hot meals and take outs, an extensive fresh seafood market with live fish tanks, and a gift department featuring fine artwork, books, records, clothing, kitchenware, cosmetics, kimonos, and fabrics. The remodeled store also included a place for the already popular Uwajimaya Cooking School.
Uwajimaya opened its former Uwajimaya Bellevue location in 1978 to cater to the Seattle Eastside’s rapidly growing population. Twenty years later Uwajimaya opened its third location in the Portland, Oregon suburb of Beaverton.
In November 2000, the Seattle Uwajimaya store moved one block south to anchor the ambitious new Uwajimaya Village in the heart of Seattle’s Chinatown/International District where it remains today. The 66,000 square foot retail space includes Seattle Uwajimaya Asian Food and Gift Market, Kinokuniya Bookstore, Chase Bank, Salon Juno, Paris Miki Optical, Savvy Asian Cosmetics and a large Asian food court. Uwajimaya Village is also home to the Uwajimaya Village Apartments, a 176-unit apartment complex above the store.
Sadly, Sadako Moriguchi, pillar of Uwajimaya and the Moriguchi family passed in the summer of 2002, a few years after Uwajimaya Village was completed. Sadako’s passing was greatly mourned by the many customers and employees who had known the matriarch from her many hard working years.
In the summer of 2009, Uwajimaya opened its fourth location in Renton, Washington. And two years later, the Bellevue location relocated from NE 24th St. & Bel-Red Road to its current location at 120th Ave NE and NE 6th St.
Today Uwajimaya’s CEO is Tomoko Moriguchi-Matsuno. The company board of directors is led by Chairman, Tomio Moriguchi. Fifteen family members are active in day-to-day business and management of Uwajimaya. Besides its original retail business, Uwajimaya, Inc. has grown to include a food service and real estate development division. As the Moriguchi family celebrates Uwajimaya’s 86th Anniversary this year, they are thankful to all the customers, employees and vendors who have helped to support and grow the business over the years. Thank you!
Today, as we do on each of our visits, we walk from our downtown Seattle hotel to Uwajimaya, about 2.3 miles each way. We shop, trying to find items (other than fresh food) that we cannot find elsewhere. We usually buy some lunch from either the food court or the huge take out deli. And we manage to find some gift or novelty items to take home.
Uwaj is always a highlight of our trip. In fact, Uwaj might be my favorite place to shop! If you get up this way, I strongly suggest you visit, you will not regret it! It makes Aldi or Costco look like kid’s play.
This June marks our 24th year visiting the great city of Seattle for our anniversary. Why Seattle? We visited once before we got married, and decided to spend part of our honeymoon here. We also went to Lake Tahoe (where it snowed in June), and another favorite place, the Carmel Monterey Peninsula. But Seattle remains at the top of our yearly visits.
One really good reason for liking Seattle is it walkability. We try to walk most everywhere, weather permitting. Though the homeless issue is among the worst in the U.S., we manage the city streets. One of our favorite walks starts downtown, where we usually stay. We pass through the business district, the fabulous Seattle Public Library, and end up in the International District at one of our favorite super markets, Uwajimaya. It is about a half hour walk, rather hilly in spots, but a decent way to start the day after a hearty breakfast.
If we get tired, we jump on their great public transportation, mostly the light rail, called Sound Transit. If we should decide to head out toward South Lake Union, we take SLUT. That stands for, you guessed it, South Lake Union Transit. Great name! Only in Seattle.
Many people see Pike Market as a tourist trap, which is probably correct. But I think it still has charm, with great fresh flower vendors. We always get a bouquet for our room. Once in a while, we will send a fresh salmon home, or buy something to eat on the spot. One of our favorites in the past, was Jack’s Fish Spot. Their scallop and chips are just outstanding. But much like everything else, it has become quite pricey!
Don’t fall for the “original” Starbucks store across from Pike. It is NOT the original, bears little resemblance, and in reality, just a tourist trap for unknowing tourists.
But a few doors down is our favorite bakery in the world, Le Panier. I often say it is better than anything I have had in Paris, Tokyo, Istanbul, or Hanoi. My personal favorite is the amandine croissant, Sheri’s is the chocolatine. Everything there is good! Expect a line out the door almost any time of day.
While we are talking about food, our favorite pizza place is also located here. Serious Pie has been our pizza favorite for about ten years now. Our favorite is the homemade sausage and cherry bomb pepper pizza. Two or three locations, one in South Lake Union, one in Belltown, and the newest on Capitol Hill, complete with a Starbucks Roastery.
We have toned down our shopping habits, now that I am not working full time. But, we still have fun looking. Our friends, Michael and Tanya own a really interesting boutique. Many of their clientele are famous or nearly famous. And they have their little dog, Theo, standing guard in the back room.
The Belltown and downtown areas have changed over the years, some for better, and some, as recently publicized, for the worse. The homeless issue here is ubiquitous, as are Amazon, google, and Microsoft. I am not sure if the city will eventually implode or become a ghost town like Detroit. I hope the people here figure it out. After all, this city has the highest achieving population as far as higher education.
While on the homeless issue, many documentaries have pointed to drug use as the cause of most homelessness. If that is a given, why the hurry to add marijuana to the mix? Somehow, that seems rather counter intuitive.
We often enjoy both live music and the theater when visiting. But perhaps not this trip, as we will meet some friends from Montana for a good portion of the trip. But since this is the home of Hendrix, The Kingsmen, The Ventures, Nirvana, and Pearl Jam, music is a big deal here. A visit to the Experience Music Project at Seattle Center is always worthwhile.
Perhaps we will see the ghost of Jimi walking down the street with his guitar. Maybe not!
When I saw this list, I figured I might have been to a few. But all six? No way!
But I will restrict my comments to my own personal experience at each place.
Shinjuku-Tokyo This place (third photo) is a literal feast for the senses. So many izakayas, sushi bars, and yakitori joints. I think I could go to a different one each day for a year! Bourdain loved this place.
Shibuya-Tokyo This is Times Square on steroids! Probably the world’s largest pedestrian crossing in the world. Certainly a plethora of neon. And lots of good places to eat, along with the famous Asadachi. It is also home to the famous statue of Hachiko (google it for a great story, Japanese version, of course)!
Zurich Hauptbahnhof It has been a long time since I was here, 1971 to be exact. I just remember it was rather old but beautiful.
Gare du Nord-Paris Really, a great jumping off point for Paris, heading north, to my fav spot, Champagne (Ardennes). Quite charming, lots of good bakeries, but a total madhouse of people. And some decent shopping too!
Penn Station-NYC Quite a sane place (second photo) by European standards. I think it is easy to navigate compared to most big stations. It probably needs some refurb and remodel, again.
Union Station-Toronto Large, spacious, almost cavernous (fourth photo). Not much going on retail or food wise, but located in the center of the city.
Some of my other favorites:
Union Station-Washington, DC Cleaned up, pretty, lots of retail and food, plus easy to navigate. And easily reached!
Munich Hauptbahnhof I love the food options here, a total feast if you don’t want to stray very far. I even bought some Cubans (cigars) here. And great cold beer, in the best Munich tradition. Walking distance to Oktoberfest grounds.
Victoria Station-London Classicly British, fun, except when I try to find a few pence for the WC. I stayed nearby for two weeks when I went to Wimbledon a few years back.
I did not enjoy any of the train stations in Russia. Difficult to navigate, limited food options, unofficial baggage handlers trying to con rubles! On the other hand, almost all of the trian stations in Japan offer great food and shopping options, and are fairly easy to navigate. I love the Eurail system. I am waiting to win the lottery so I can take the Orient Express.
Moab history dates back 10,000 years, but the first settlement was established in 1880. Moab appears in the Bible, a dry, mountainous Area east of the Dead Sea.
Congress made Arches a national park in1971. Thankfully, Trump can’t touch it!!
Uranium was big here in the 50s thanks to Charlie Steen, not Sheen. Tourism began in 1983, with a silly fat-tired, multi-geared bike called a mountain bike. Tourism is now Moab’s largest industry.
When I-70 was built in 1992, Moab became much easier to access. It is now a destination for people from all over the world.
The silly Easter Jeep Safari is this week, April 13-21. It draws tens of thousands of off road enthusiasts, creating a bonanza for area hotels, bars, restaurants, and junk stores. I have no idea how or why the Bureau of Land Management condones this. But the off roaders are friendly, drive courteously, and speak English.
Another big deal here are the Utah Jazz NBA team. They love sports of all kinds here. In fact, Utah State has a campus here, as well as down by Monuments.
Though it might be my last trip here, this area is simply spectacular. When Sheri and I were here about ten years ago, we took the flight over Dread Horse and Canyonlands. It costs well over $300 now, though we paid about a hundred.
I miss our local news, just not very good here.
They still have silly liquor laws here. The blood alcohol limit is 0.05%, and they still have state owned liquor stores. Yet, it seems like I can get a beer most everywhere. But not last night at the Thai place.
The top five outdoor activities: hiking, biking, camping, climbing, and jeeping.
Sadly, today I saw them medi-vac some people out of Canyonlands NP. People do crazy things here, like sit on a ledge overlooking a mile drop, or climbing on rocks, off the marked trails.
I talked to a cyclist who rode out to Dead Horse from Moab, a good 60 miles round trip, over undulating roads, and crazy drivers. They do have some nice, bike only trails here, but the focus is mountain biking.
Nothing new, but Utah teachers are underpaid according to the last survey. Maybe Jerry Brown should come to Utah??
The southeast Utah snowpack is now 204% of normal. Maybe that explains why ny shower had TWO showerheads instead of one.
The mighty Colorado River runs by Moab, just north of town. As elsewhere, water is life. More water is distributed from the Colorado River thanany other river basin in the world!! Their slogan here is “Whiskey is for drinking, water is for fighting.” The river irrigates 4 million acres of farnland, passes through 33 reservoirs, 188 pumping stations, 50 power plants, and 14, 590 miles of canals.
An arch must have an opening of at least three feet wide. Natural bridges are formed by running water, and are rarer than arches. Arches are formed byother erosional forces, and are usualky high and exposed. Landscape Arvh has the longest span of any arch in North America,306 feet, longer than a football field.
Moab is a very dog friendly town. Maybe next time, Lexi will come along?
Guess when the rains are heaviest here? Wrong! It is August!
The roads are filled with jeeps and motorhomes. But they seem to go 70 all the time!
Still a Bible in my night stand here. Most places these days do not have Bible. Asia has The Teachings of Buddha, which I enjoy once in a while. My grand father’s father and older brother were Buddhist priests in Japan.
From my trip to Moab in April, 2019.
Some casual and quite random observations, while in Europe.
Service people seem much nicer here than back in the US. No surprise at all.
Weather is still a bit dreary (Amsterdam), spring has not sprung, yet. (It did in Istanbul, however)
Flying over to Europe in coach is dreadful, though the seat next to me was open. I managed a few hours sleep, with the help of modern medications.
I finished the David Lagerkranz follow up to the trilogy of Stieg Larson about the Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. Not bad, not great. The movie was on my screen, but it was totally disjointed.
The weather was quite dreary in Amsterdam, but seems a little better here in Bordeaux. We got our bikes delivered just now. Friday will start with a circular route back to the same hotel here in Saint Macaire. It will be a 27 mile (ended up 31 miles with a few wrong turns), relatively flat ride through the region.
Our hotel, the Hotel Les Feuilles d’Acanthe, actually has the best restaurant here in Macaire. We had lunch there and plan to have their duck l ‘orange for dinner tonight. It was quite good, prepared medium rare. And the wine was also quite good. Best part: take the unfinished wine back to the room for tomorrow night’s dinner!
Did you know the Dutch air traffic controllers are on strike? We were over 30 minutes late taking off this morning from Schiphol.
The French people here are so much nicer than my first trip here in the 70s.
I walked this little village (Saint Macaire) today, cobblestone streets and sidewalks, lots of limestone everywhere. Cemeteries, old buildings in need of restoration, but mildly interesting.
Breakfast in Bordeaux is simple, with coffee, bread, cheese, fruit, and some pastries.
The hotel here is quite old, but well maintained, rather quaint, with some modern touches in the bathrooms and lighting. We are headed out soon for our first ride of the week. I can’t wait for my first bike ride through a roundabout!!!
Andy, our young support coordinator, moves our luggage and bikes around the countryside, as needed. Today, he rode some of our 31 miles with us, so we bought him lunch. He is a ski instructor in Zermatt, Switzerland during the winter. Great work, ski in winter, cycle in summer. Go Andy, go!!! Very nice young man, from Inverness, Scotland, of course.
Tomorrow, we skip the bike ride to Sauterne, instead, wine tasting and tour in Bordeaux. Should be fun.
Not much English language news on TV here, no BBC or CNN. A good break from the chaos back home, though Brexit, the French protests, and global warming are big topics here.
The funniest ever, Homer Simpson speaking French!!!
So, wine tasting in Bordeaux, a bit curious, and lots of pretentiousness. They seem so paranoid about California wines. It is almost a comedy!!
They take such extreme means to grow grapes, then curiously machine pick! This is not done in the Champagne region, nor in most of Napa Valley. They are limited in Bordeaux to make only one bottle of wine per vine!! And there are a myriad of other rules, mostly “tradition”, and to maintain the mystique of French wines.
The little village of Sauternes is quite small. We have some hotels, four places to eat, two wine stores, no bakery (in the next town), one pharmacy, two churches, and a partridge in a pine tree. How many of you will understand the pine tree here in Sauterne? Maybe Beth.
Our hotel here in Sauternes is just wonderful, old but completely refurbished. Not only huge, but I have a fireplace, foyer, and even a hammam in my bathroom!!! And the owner is a most delighful man, named Didier. He even picked us up in Langon since we could not find an Uber or taxi. He makes breakfast every morning, our dinner reservations, and anything else we want.
We only did 28 miles on the bikes yesterday, over to the town of Bazac, then back on a long cycling trail for the most part. Lunch was finally a green salad, and of course, pomme friites and a beer.
Today, we ride over to the Cadillac region for two nights, then on to Saint Emilion.
Finally tried a Sauternes wine with dessert last night, with apple tart. Pretty good, but I could only do that once a month. Too sweet! We also had a really nice blend of Saint Emilion with Sauvignon blanc with our local fish dinner.
Yesterday, surrounding the church grounds, was a huge petanque gathering. I thought it was bocce, but it is more like curling with metal balls that are thrown or rolled over to the target area.
Just when I feel a tiny bit better about the French, this happens. Our travel coordinator, a young chap from Scotland, was denied entry to the hotel dining room and bar when we arrived in Cadillac. When we told them he was with us, they became somewhat apologetic. My take, at least ask the poor kid before you kick him out!!! Needless to say, we went elsewhere for our lunch.
Easy ride today, but strange in spots. The strangest was a bicycle only gate with an old wooden crossing over the double rail tracks here. The path leading up to it looked like an unused grass strip.
Just between us, I can’t wait to get out of Dodge, or France as it were. Looking forward to seeing my friends, Dirty Pat and his wife, Renee’ in Bucharest. Then onward to Istanbul, if I can find some clean clothes.
Sometime in your life, it is better to be lucky. Such was the chance last night. Our last resort for dinner, a shabby pizza parlor, transformed into wonderful French cuisine. I had escargot, risotto, pasta, and ice cream sundae. Quite well done, Luigi. At least, he was trained in Napoli, maybe once a Louis, now Luigi??
Saint Emilion is more my kind of town. Sauterne and Saint Macaire were just too small for me. Love the myriad wine shops here, and the little cafe’s. Great place to end the week of cycling. I celebrated with a great burger.
Gazing at the bottles of famous wine has a way of intoxicating my common sense. I almost bought a $400 bottle of Chateau Margaux. I ended up at another wine shop with several bottles of Saint Emilion’s finest, a blend of cab, and merlot. In fact, I had three glasses of this wine at lunch, before staggering back to the hotel, less than 30 yards away.
Morning starts early, as my plane from Bordeaux, via Amsterdam to Bucharest leaves at 6:30am. The driver was 30 minutes late, and I came within a nanosecond of missing both flights! Not a good feeling, and reminded me too much of my days of heavy work travel.
Landed safely in Bucharest, and had a few beers and snack waiting for Pat and Renee’ to arrive from their trip to Yas. Did I already tell you they are on the fourth floor, and the elevator is broken?
As I mentioned in a separate email, Bucharest is quite the place. I thoroughly enjoyed my time here, and might even come back!
I am not sure if this is a highlight or lowlight, but we ended up at a Shakespeare play, in Romanian, with an Elvis song thrown in! I have a difficult time with Willie’s play in English. It was directed by one of his fellow Fulbrighters.
We did some touristy things, visited Casa Ceausescu, where the infamous dictator lived. We also did a walking tour, before heading to a Japanese restaurant for dinner. The Japanese chef is from Oregon, and married a Romanian woman.
Pat and I spent the day in Brasov, a German ski resort about two hours by rail north of here. Visited Bran Castle, took the tram to the top of the resort, sampled some German delicacies, and washed it down with beer!
On to Istanbul, another early morning, leaving their apartment at 6:30am. Uber is very reliable here. My airline was called Tarom, but I did not go there!
My hotel is located in old town, or Sultanahmet, where the famous sites are located, and not far from the Grand Bazaar.
Did I mention I am on the fourth floor again! And no elevator, just one of those strange semi circular, off beat staircases made for tiny feet?
My guide, Gokce was arranged by a friend of a friend. He is very knowledgeable and a really good sport putting up with me. Of course, one of the first things I requested: beer, lunch, and a visit to the Grand Bazaar.
My brother rarely asks me to buy anything for him. But he did request some Turkish raisins. Definitely not as good as ours.
But I fell in love with Turkish delight, a great dessert item or sweet to have with their rather strong coffee or tea.
Visited both the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia, then headed over to the Galata Tower for a great 360 degree view of Istanbul, and the Bosporus. And it was a beautiful, sunny day, with time for a few Turkish beers after.
I was invited over to my guide’s home, met his wife, and their two dogs. What a treat! Then over to their favorite seafood place for a really interesting and tasty dinner.
People here are so nice. I have a little hangout about 40 yards from the hotel. I have a cold beer there at least once a day, sometimes some fries, and even dinner there one night. I gave him a sweater since I ran out of room in my suitcase. Too much Turkish delight!
I fail to see why the U.S. government wants travelers to avoid Turkey. It is safer here than back in the states! They even have undercover police patrolling the tourist areas at night!
Only in Istanbul can you take a tour bus over to Asia in a matter of about 30 minutes. I actually went back twice on my Bosporus cruise. No visa required, as Istanbul is located on both continents!
Another early morning, started at 4am, for 5am car service to airport. I needed four flights to get home, 9:30pm! I was tired, jet-lagged, and badly in need of a good meal and hot shower.
Welcome home!
Somehow, these emails were not sent
, and were actually “lost” until I retrieved them here at home. I apologize for sending them all at once. As I may have mentioned, Istanbul is a great city, perhaps a top ten in my personal book of cities. I hope to return some day and see more of this wonderful country. They are most welcoming, love Americans, and have a strong infrastructure to support all types of tourism. And of course, my favorites, among many favorites, was the Grand Bazaar, a total feast for the senses.
Only in Istanbul
II have been waiting for many years to visit. The visit is upon me. What to see and do? How about these for a start?
I want to try the famous street food, particularly the Döner kabab, which is famous throughout Europe, and parts of Asia. A few I have tasted in Europe were quite tasty, and go quite well with a cold beer. Some other dishes to try: dolmas, koftas, and of course, the ubiquitous baklava.
Side note: the traditional Turkish meatball is ground lamb, braised and served as about a 5 inch by 1 inch long patty, with some mild green chili peppers. The doners are better here, according to the Turks, since they allow more fat into the meat. The meat is moist and flavorful, and better than doners I have had elsewhere in the world.
The Hagia Sophia is the only place in the world to serve three religions. Of all the religious buildings I visited, this was the best and most interesting.
Uniquely, have breakfast in Europe with a view of Asia, then lunch in Asia with a view of Europe. In other words, a trip on the Bosphorus, often called the heart of the city. I went to Asia three times on tis trip, once by land, and twice by sea! Where else in the world is it so easy, and so very close???
Witness a unique form of meditation, the whirling dervishes with their Sama ritual.
Visit the Blue Mosque by morning, party on the Bosphorus by evening. Experts say, “Istanbul is the new Berlin!” The Blue Mosque, like many older buildings in Istanbul is undergoing renovation. Too bad we encountered so many Chinese tourists here!
Go shopping in the most visited tourist attraction in the world, the famous Grand Bazaar. I can’t wait. I love this concept the world over, whether Bangkok’s Chatuchak Market, Honolulu’s Aloha Stadium Flea Market, or the famous Night Markets throughout SE Asia. The Grand Bazaar was the highlight, for me, of Istanbul, along wit the beautiful Bosporus. I could spend days there.
Topkapi Palace was home to the Ottoman sultans for 400 years. Today it is a museum, holding, among other things, Muhammed’s cloak and sword. For me, it consists of too many little, specialty rooms, and did not seem befitting of the great Sultans.
Stroll down Istiklal street, with streetcars, Ottoman era buildings, nightlife, and Cicek Pasaji (drinking raki and eating fish). This is a wonderfully busy, and upbeat area down by the Galata Bridge. I spent the better part of a day here. The fish (mackerel) sandwich is grilled on a boat, and sold to patrons, who can then sit at little tables next to the boat. Other vendors sell drinks, hand wipes, and tasty Turkish pickles.
While we are trying new food, how about the famous kumpir, Istanbul’s preferred street food. It is a baked potato loaded with appetizers (olives, hotdogs, pickles, corn and secret sauce). It looked a little too fatty for me.
Another one is tasting the palm ( a type of dessert) of Buyukada Island.
The Prince islands can be toured by bicycle. Sounds right up my alley.
They say that I need to wrap a rag around a tree near Aya Yorgi Church to make a wish.
Tasting the lemon ice-cream in the Ice-Cream Maker Prinkapos’ place which is on the right-hand side while climbing the Büyükada Dock. The ice cream here is fabulous, much better than gelato or our ice cream back home. They really know how to top it with fresh fruit as well.
Having a Turkish coffee at Bebek cafe. Turkish coffee is thick, strong, and black. It is good, but…..the best part was I learned to love Turkish delight!
Try more desserts like keskul (almond pudding), ekmek kadayifi (bread), ayva tatlisi (quince dessert), and more baklava, of course. The baklava is sweeter than ours back home, and not as crispy. But it is quite good, with a cup of Turkish coffee or tea.
I will let you know what I enjoyed the most. Hint: The Grand Bazaar!!!!!
Call It Constantinople, Please!!!
ma
Istanbul has been Constantinople, and Byzantium long before becoming Istanbul. There is even a song about it:
So, Take me back to Constantinople
No, you can’t go back to Constantinople
Been a long time gone, Oh Constantinople
Why did Constantinople get the works?
That’s nobody’s business but the Turks.
According to Pliny, the Elder, the first name of Byzantium was Lygos, a Thracian settlement. Byzantium was founded by the Greeks from Megara in 667 BC. Greek legend says it I the name of a Greek king who led the Megarean colonists, who founded the city.
Briefly in the third century AD, the city was called Augusta Antonina by the Roman Emperor, Septimius Severus (193-211) in honor of his son, Antoninus. I did not know this.
Before the Roman Emperor, Constantine the Great made the city the eastern capital of the Roman Empire, he rebuilt the city and modeled it after Rome. The city was often referred to as New Rome.
In honor of Constantine, Emperor Theodosius II (408-450) made the official name, Constantinople. And I think that is the coolest name of the three that we often refer to. It is also the formal official name during the Ottoman Empire.
They may have used other Byzantine names periodically, and informally, through the fall of the Ottoman Empire in 1923. The modern Turkish name, Istanbul means “in the city”. It is based on the common Greek usage of referring to Constantinople as “The City, as we do now for San Francisco.
Istanbul was the common name for the city, even before the 1453 conquest, by regular citizens. Names other than Istanbul became obsolete in the Turkish language about the time of the Ottoman Empires demise. Most modern western languages adopted the modern name, Istanbul during the 20th century.
So, take your pick. Istanbul sounds exotic, but Constantinople sounds other worldly. Cool. And it has a great song with its name in it.
Some famous Turks: Eliza Kazan, Mary Magdalene, Pliny the Younger, St. Paul, Suleiman the Magnificent, Mustafa Ataturk, St. Nicholas, many Sultans, Osman I, Zaza Pachulia, Hedo Turkoglu, and Enes Kanter (NBA).
Armenian Genocide in Turkey
ears
I have mixed thoughts and feelings about visiting Turkey. Not just the current political turmoil, but their past history with the genocide of the Armenians. We grew up with so many Armenian families and friends in the area. They are among my best friends. And the greater Fresno area is home to a large number of Armenian Americans. But I have been anxious to visit, despite all of the issues, even the danger. Last year, as you may remember, I had one of the last visas issued to an American, and was told by the State Department NOT to go!
This time, unless another war breaks out, or open hostility to tourists, namely Americans, becomes unbearable, I am going. I plan to pick and choose my spots, and most likely avoid tour groups, which seem to be an easy target for anti-American trouble makers.
What is it about Turkey that draws one to Istanbul and other major points of interest? For one, I think the Grand Bazaar has always been a draw. And the famous Bosphorus, where the Sea of Marmara meets the Black Sea, and by extension, the Dardanelles, the Aegean, and the Mediterranean. I distinctly remember hearing and learning those names in World History as a sophomore in high school.
But since I should not find today’s Turks responsible for the terrible genocide, I should not find modern day Belgians responsible for Leopold II, or my own modern day Japanese homeland responsible for World War 2. The country has a strong culture, and as part of the Ottoman Empire, led the way of the world for a long time.
For one, Turkey lies in a unique place, partly in Europe, and partly in Asia. Throughout history, it has served as both a barrier and a bridge between the two great continents.
Turkey is also at the crossroads of the Balkans, Caucasus, Middle East, as well as the eastern Mediterranean. It has the largest land area of any European country, with nearly all of it in Asia. It stretches about a thousand miles wide, and from 300 to 400 miles top to bottom. To the north, is the Black Sea, with Georgia and Armenia to the northeast, on the east by Azerbaijan and Iran, to the southeast by Iraq and Syria (that worries me), and on the northwest by Greece, and Bulgaria.
Ankara is the capital, and the largest city and seaport is Istanbul, where I will start this adventure. The Turkish narrows are a major factor in its relationship with their neighbors. These include: the Bosphorus, the Sea of Marmara, the Dardanelles, collectively known as the Turkish Straits. Turkey’s control of the Straits, the only outlet from the Black Sea, is a major factor in its relations with other countries.
The modern Turkish republic was founded in 1923 after the collapse of the Ottoman Empire. It is a parliamentary democracy, and have multi party elections since the 1950s.
The highest point in Turkey is Mount Ararat, at 16,945 feet. The lowlands are located on the coast, while the majority of the country is mountainous. The climate can be described as a dry semi continental Mediterranean variant, with colder winters than most of their Mediterranean neighbors, due to the mountainous areas.
Turkish is the mother tongue, with the remainder speaking Kurdish (about 1/5 of the population), and a few Arabic. More than 90% of the country is Muslim, but Turkey remains a secular country. Islam was removed as the official state religion back in 1928.
The population hovers around 80 million, though immigrants arrive daily from war torn neighboring states. Turkey has a mixed economy, having transformed from agriculture (now 25%) to industry (now 25%) and services (now 50%). Turkey has a wealth of natural resources, including coal, oil (limited), iron and other metallic ores. Turkey is the Middle East’s largest steel producer, while textiles are second.
That is a lot to digest for now. More on life here, the culture, the people, and some more interesting things.
What Is A Kebab?
We have all enjoyed kebabs of various sorts back home, including lamb (shish), beef, and chicken. I have even had fish, cheese, fruit, vegetable, and tofu kebabs in some places around the world. But what really is a kebab?
In the Middle East, Asia, and the Muslim world, a kebab is any variety of grilled meats, usually on a skewer, but not always. The meat on the kebab can be ground, cut, or cubed, and may include anything that can be grilled. But rarely pork due to religious reasons. One of my favorites is the doner kebab, available throughout the world, but particularly good in this part of the world.
The “Adana” kebab is quite popular here. It is made of ground beef or a combination of ground beef and lamb. Quite commonly, onion, garlic and Turkish spices are added. Then they are packed by hand onto large, flat, metal skewers. The fat helps bind the meat together on the skewer.
A cook from Bursa is credited with the invention of the doner kebab. It is quite different from the doner, which can be found throughout Europe. Both generally are roasted over a rotating grill or rotisserie. From Istanbul food: In Turkey, the word kebap extends to include any of these dishes that are cooked over, or next to, a flame. It includes both small and large cuts of meat, as well as ground meat. Kebab in Turkey can be served on plates (known as porsiyon), in sandwiches, or even in wraps (known as durum).
Traditionally, the meat used to make Turkish kebabs is lamb. However, as individual tastes evolved, and regional specialties developed, other popular meats used in Turkish kebabs have extended to include beef, chicken and fish. Using vegetables in kebabs has also always been popular in Turkey, and most commonly you’ll find varieties of kebab made with eggplant, tomato, peppers and onion.
It is generally accepted that the first kebabs in Turkey originated from the Erzurum province in Eastern Turkey, as cağ kebab; with meat stacked and cooked on a spit horizontally, rather than vertically as today’s döner kebabs are. These kebabs are first mentioned in Ottoman travel books dating back to the 18th century. The ‘father’ of the modern döner kebab, Iskender Efendi, then wrote that he and his grandfather “had the idea of roasting the lamb vertically rather than horizontally”, and invented a vertical rotisserie. It is this dish that is today most commonly recognized throughout the world as ‘kebab’.
My favorite is, of course, the grilled lamb cubes, that we know back home as shish kebab, from our wonderful Armenian friends in the Valley. My Mom learned to make the shish, along with several dishes, from the Armenian ladies in her Tuesday night bridge club.
Note: the lamb here is lamb, not mutton. And it is among the best I have EVER eaten!
Most interesting to compare these kebabs to the ones back home. I love kebabs. I grew up on kebabs. My Mom had a great recipe from one of her Armenian bridge ladies. It was the best!
The Grandest Bazaar
Probably from the first time I thought about visiting Istanbul, I have wanted to wander around the Grand Bazaar. One of the world’s oldest and largest, the GB is over 31,000 square meters, with over sixty four streets and alleys, twenty two entrances, and a mere 4,000 shops. Its origin dates back to 1461 and the days of Mehmet the Conqueror. I guess this would be the first shopping center ever built? It became the center of trade for the entire Ottoman Empire.
According to the Ottoman traveler Evliya Çelebi’s Seyahatname, by the seventeenth century the Kapalı Çarşı (or the Çarşı-yı-Kebir as it was known at the time) had reached its present size, with over 4,000 shops and nearly 500 stalls known in Turkish as dolap (literally translated to “cupboard”).
The Grand Bazaar is really a city within a city, with its own police station, post office, dispensary, several banks, and a tourist information center. Also on site are restaurants, a hammam, a mosque, and about ten smaller prayer rooms (mescits).
Each and every travel expert tells me that I should expect to get lost, at least many times! Chatting and bargaining, rather than rushing through the bazaar, provides the best experience. The eventual purchase is not as important as the haggling, and the relationship between buyer and seller. I went back several times to the first guy, and he was pretty fair, according to my local guide/friend.
I would expect sensory overload to be my first impression. I was. Maybe the second and third as well. Yes, I was. But I love these markets as I travel the world, but never having been to any this large, or this “foreign” to me. So, putting my hands on the product will encourage the vendor to close the sale. The more aggressive the vendor, the more likely the item is probably not worth my time. They say the most trusted shopkeepers do not harass customers into buying their products. I hope that is true!
Among the items for sale are jewelry, of course, antiques, furniture, leather goods, casual clothing, souvenirs, carpets, textiles, made to order, and eating and drinking. But the common denominator: they all use one liners and attention grabbers to attract customers. If you feel like a conversation, go for it, but beware of giving the merchant false hope that you will buy from them!
With anywhere from 250,000 to 400,000 visitors (over 90 million annually) a day, I expect it to be crazy. The bazaar is open every day but Sunday, from 9:00 to 19:00. So, how can I go about buying something, without overpaying, or pissing off the shop keeper? With 25,000 staff people, the place is buzzing!
First, the person waiting on me is most likely not the owner or shop keeper. And he or she is on a sales quota, getting paid only a commission for what is sold. So, much like vendors the world over, the early morning is when the sales person wants to make sure they reach their daily quota. As the day progresses, and they have made their quota, their focus turns to either more commission, or keeping the shop keeper happy by trying to sell excess or unwanted inventory. Between 11:00 and 13:00 are the best times, according to the experts.
On my side of the sale, I must try not too look very eager. And don’t just focus on one item, though make a mental note of it while looking around. Once an item is chosen, make the sales person give the best price first. Then, with a look of total astonishment, leave the item and head to another store with similar items. Either the clerk makes a new offer, buying my bluff, or he lets me walk. Once a new offer is made, the real bargaining starts.
Another trick, is slow and steady is the best course. The clerk’s urge to sell should be greater than my desire to buy. Never rush the bargaining process. Many times they will offer tea, usually in a hidden corner of the store. Why? So nobody else can hear what is going on. And second, the clerk may want to create a need for the sale, a more personal reason, like a family to feed or a sick relative.
Of course, it is all just a story, and his children will still be able to go to college, with or without your purchase. Keep playing his game with nods, and maybes. Without hard and fast rules, I always aim for 50% of the asking price. It may require some practice, though I have done it in SE Asia numerous times.
With 18 million people, I am certain there are a few that would like to make a buck or two off of me. They prefer targets who are alone. Bars with overpriced drinks, and under dressed women are a red flag. Single white men are the best target, usually confronted by a well dressed English speaking tout. Shoe shines and pick pockets are another scam.
Now, what really do I expect to buy? Maybe a T shirt or two, some spices and tea, a fridge magnet, that’s about it. I do not need a rug, jewelry, clothing, second hand books, clay pottery, pipe, or leather goods. They probably will not be too happy with me. But the lamp store might be somewhere I could buy, since we have several Turkish lamps at home.
I love the markets around the world here the locals shop. It was a highlight of my trip!
Why Is the Mosque Blue?
The Blue Mosque is blue because of the hand painted, blue tiles (over 20,000) on the interior walls. Built in 1606 to 1616, during the rule of Ahmet I, this Ottoman mosque contains his tomb, a madrasa (educational institution), and a hospice. Still used as a mosque, the Sultanahmet Camii (Turkish for Blue Mosque) is a popular tourist attraction here in Istanbul. But it is closed in ninety minute segments during the five daily prayers for worshippers. Mid morning is the best time to arrive.
One noticeable difference from the Hagia Sophia is the four “elephant foot’ pillars. It has a central dome, flanked by four semi-domes, making it nearly square in shape. The mosque was designed as an imperial show of strength to complement the Hagia Sophia across Sultanahmet Square. It also has six minarets, where most mosques have two or four. The controversy surrounds the fact that Prophet’s mosque in Mecca is the only other mosque with six minarets. The Sultan solved this by adding a seventh minaret to the mosque in Mecca.
Come to think of it, I don’t think I have ever set foot in a mosque before. And I did not know it is free to visit. Women, of course, must cover their heads when entering. For men, pants must cover the knees. No mention of what else needs to be covered. Shoes are stored outside, in plastic bags, at no charge. Donations are not required.
With a capacity of ten thousand, this place is more like a city than a mosque. It is considered the most famous landmark in Istanbul. And just my luck, the mosque is being renovated, to be completed by 2020.
The mosque’s interior has 20,000 blue tiles that line its high ceiling. The oldest of these tiles feature flowers, trees and abstract patterns that make them fine examples of sixteenth century Iznik design. Many have been broken or stolen, the reason for the restoration.
The Blue Mosque’s interior is lit with two hundred and sixty windows which were once filled with stained glass of the seventeenth century. Unfortunately they have been lost and replaced with replicas far more inferior.
Two Popes have visited the Blue Mosque: Pope Benedict XVI in 2006, and Pope Francis in 2014. President Barack Obama toured the mosque in 2009. BTW, the Turks do not call it the Blue Mosque.
What Rhymes with Bosporus?
I can only think of one word, a chemical element, P, number 15, Phosphorus, never found as a free element on earth. (Actually, I came up with another while visiting. It is prosperous!!) But Bosporus, the strategic waterway, is the strait between the Black Sea and Sea of Marmara. With the Dardanelles, it separates Europe form Asia. Or should I say, it connects Asia and Europe? It is only 19 miles long, and from 2.3 miles wide at the west, and only 2450 feet at its narrowest.
And it is grand, and blue, and beautiful. And so busy!!!!
The current here flows from north to south, but with a strong subsurface undercurrent, making navigation difficult for beginners. The strait is busy with oil tankers, and commercial ships (over 48,000 annually), along with local fishing and sightseeing boats. One hundred and forty ships take the 90 minute voyage daily. In addition, the Bosphorus has two tunnels that run underneath: Marmaray which runs the subway system, and the Eurasia tunnel, a double decker for cars and minibuses only.
The Bosporus is one of the most beautiful stretches of scenery in Turkey, with the best way to see it by boat. I took the boat cruise, almost three hours, and visited Asia twice by boat, once by land. On the surrounding shores that rise upwards of 200 feet, Ottoman wooden houses, fortresses, palaces, ruins, villages, and gardens can be seen. Also, some of the best hotels and restaurants line the straits as well.
The water seems much cleaner than San Francisco Bay. The fish from the water here are said to taste better, since they live in a “sea”, and not the ocean. I tried several kinds of fish, including mackerel and sea bass. I would agree.
Back in high school, I remember a geography quiz in World History. The Bosporus was always one of the questions. Little did I know I would one day see it for myself. And Istanbul is the only city in the world that crosses two continents. But you knew that?
Quick final observations:
The people of Istanbul are so friendly and welcoming. I always felt safe.
The Grand Bazaar and the Bosporus were my two favorite experiences.
Having a local guide is important for learning some of the finer parts of Istanbul life and customs.
The streets are narrow, one car wide, but open to traffic both ways!
The lamb here is tasty and delicious.
I fell in love with Turkish delight!
Their cafe and coffee culture here is grand.
Istanbul is a very underrated city.
My hotel in Old Town was walking distance to the Haya Sophia and Blue Mosque.
I strongly suggest that you visit!!!
I may have left a few things out. Once I get back in California time zone status, I will figure it out and send.
Gerry
We took a side trip to Brasov, a former German stronghold, with architecture and people to match. We took the train up there, 2.5 hours each way, and got to enjoy the countryside and mountains. Brasov is a winter ski resort, and Bran Castle is the big year round attraction.
Our guide, Tudor is a ski instructor in Austria during the winter, and a custom tour guide in the remainder of the year. He was quite insightful about the German occupation, and the distinction most Romanians strongly embrace: they are derived from the Roman Empire, and not the Slavics!
Bran Castle was a nice visit, and we took the ski tram to the top for a great city view. As I mentioned, the famous Romanian tennis player, Ion Tiriac is the richest man in Romania, with his imprint on many businesses, like auto, insurance, banking, and real estate.
But however large that shadows looms, the ghost of Nicolai Ceausescu overshadows all in this country. They are recovering, but still are impeded by the remnants of Communist control. That said, the city of Bucharest is emerging as a “Paris” of eastern Europe, but in my view, more interesting, and certainly more friendly.
We even went to his old mansion, kept intact despite his execution. The Parliament building, the second largest building in the world after the Pentagon, remains about 80 % empty, and supposedly has ghosts. Yet the city, particularly Old Town is most charming and inviting.
Yes, they still have problems, with corruption, like any government emerging from Soviet control, and the despotic Ceausescu. Oh, and too many people smoke here!
Pat and his wife gave me such great insight into the people, city, and country here. We even went to a Shakespeare play in Romanian, with Elvis music. Pat and I went to Brasov, so we missed Fiddler on the Roof in Yiddish on Sunday!
People here are proud of their heritage and country. Hopefully, they are emerging from the giant twin shadows of the two “C’s”, communism and Ceaucescu.
We had a few interesting moments. Pat got us kicked out of an Uber for closing his door too hard! The Uber guy was just a real jerk. Most were nice. One was an old hockey player on the national team, another a former physicist, a student of Ceausescu’s son, who drove us in a Mercedes. Most are decent guys and also quite interesting.
The rather upscale restaurant directly below their apartment is supposedly up for a Michelin star. We dined there my first night in the city. It was as good as any place back home. Better yet, we got to peruse the wine cellar. And the manager greets us every time we arrive or leave!!
Old town is fairly well preserved, as are many historical sights. But without ADA here, the four story walk up to their apartment was a chore (broken elevator). Traffic is bad during rush hours, but they do have a good metro system, to go along with rather ruthless cab drivers.
I was sad to leave Dirty Pat and Renee’. They really know their stuff, spend a good amount of time researching and understanding the culture. Pat lectures on various law topics throughout the year, in English. He is also invited to speak in many of the surrounding cities, where law schools, and legal eagles reside.
We took a walking tour of the city as well. We met the most interesting young lady. She is a translator of French and Italian into English. She travels the world since she does not need an office. She is a freelance translator with a great following. She is from a small town outside of London, where her sister and their two dogs reside. Can you imagine what I would do if I had a portable skill like that? I would never be home!
Speaking of home, yes, home is the best place for me right now. Summer will soon be here, and I need to recharge the proverbial batteries. 
I only know about Finnish (saunas) baths, and pretty Finnish girls. And not much else, though I will try to find out on a short layover in Helsinki, Finland on May 24th.
Aside from being the most populous city in Finland, it was the home of the 1952 Summer Olympics. And it has been, at least lately, one of the best urban standards for living, always ranked high in livable cities indexes. And it is ranked by the UN as the happiest country in the world. There are 187,888 lakes in Finland.
The tendency, for us westerners, is to lump Finland, Sweden, Norway and Denmark together. But having grown up in a mostly Swedish hamlet in California, I have been schooled repeatedly about their difference. The Danes in our little town took great exception to being called Swedes. The language is not similar to Swedish, Danish or Norwegian.
Yet, Helsinki was established as a trading center by King Gustav I of Sweden, back in 1550! We probably owe it to the Russians for reducing the Swedish influence, and helping create the Finnish persona. So, bottom line, Russia and Sweden kept taking turn running this country, until their independence, in 1918 shortly after WW1.
Helsinki has a population of about 1.1 million, the entire country 5.4 million. But Swedish and Finnish are the official languages, with Helsinki slang serving as the regional dialect of the city. Helsinki also serves as a regional gateway, with over 140 nationalities represented. They are in the European Union, but not NATO. Go figure! But it is the most sparsely populated country in the EU.
IT seems to be the biggest money maker here, having taken over heavy industry and shipping. Music and the arts thrive here, along with sports, and nude sun bathing! I think I should come back here when I have more time??
There are a few famous Finns over the years: Linus Torvalds (Linux), Esa-Peka Salonen (new director of the San Francisco Symphony), Teemu Salanne (hockey), Paava Nurmi (track), Lasse Viren (track), Jari Kurri (hockey), Jean Sibelius (composer),Eer Saarinen (architect), and Kimi Raakonen (race car driver). Yet their most popular sports are: wife-carrying championship, mosquito hunting competition, mobile phone throwing, swamp football, and air guitar.
Finland seems to be famous for its glassware, with littala one of their more famous brands. Cabbage rolls and pea soup seem to be their most well known food items. The local lakka, is their favorite beverage, made by soaking cloudberries in alcohol for two to six months. Sima is a fermented, sparkling beverage, once semi-poplar in the U.S. And of course, Finlandia Vodka is produced from six row barley. For long cold winter, Glogg is their national warmer upper. Finland is also known for great beers, Koff and Karrhu.
Yet, the average Finn consumes 12 kilos of coffee annually. And the world’s highest milk consumption per capita! There are more heavy metal bands here per capita than anywhere in the world. There are more saunas than cars here. Even Burger King in Helsinki has a sauna. Angry Birds was created in Finland.
And perhaps most importantly, Santa Claus resides here, in a house built right on the Arctic Circle, in the town of Rovaniemi, in the northern province of Lappland. They receive over 700,000 letters to Santa each year.
The Finns have free education, up through the university level. When a Finn gets a Ph.D., they also get a top hat and a sword! The Finns love salmiakki, a salty licorice. And the experts say it is the third best passport behind only Singapore, Japan, and Germany. It was the first country in Europe to give all women the right to vote.
My only problem with being here? I would not like being called a Finn. But Finnish is not much better. How about a Finlander?
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