We went to Singapore a few years ago, with our friend Mike and his son, Matt. It was our first and only trip to this unique, and clean place. On the map, Singapore is an island just south of Malaysia, toward the southern end of SE Asia. In 1819, the British East India Company (remember reading about that in grade school history?) established a strategic trading post for the many spices first, then as a military and commercial center for the British Empire. It was actually occupied by Japan during WW2, then reverted back to British rule. It became an independent republic in 1965, though it retains much of its British roots and culture.
This small island nation is the 6th wealthiest country per capita in the world. Its citizens enjoy a high standard of living, and a representative democracy, with English as the official language. However, ethnic Chinese make up the bulk of the population. It is also only one of three city-states in the world. But don’t be fooled, it is a busy and vibrant city, with great shopping, multi ethnic foods, and some famous landmarks.
First, when we landed, the Singapore airport looks more like a hotel lobby than an airport. Even the baggage claim areas have fresh flowers and soft music. Though we landed late at night, the drive into the city was remarkable for its clean streets, and lack of blighted areas. It was almost hilarious at our hotel, part of the well known, and nicely appointed Meritus chain. We checked in and Sheri and I got twin beds!!! Mike’s son, Matt, got a king size bed for himself, as did Mike. It turns out that we were travelling under different last names. They said they give twin beds to “single” travelers. I spent most of the night trying to keep from falling onto the floor.
Naturally, the next morning we took a tour of the city. We spent a good deal of time at their famous botanical garden and orchid farm. We also visited the many ethnic areas of the city, like Chinatown, and Little India. We visited the heart of the business district, as well as the government sponsored apartments or condos. Even the architects and city planners here practice feng-shui. Their system allows newlyweds to buy homes at a reasonable price. They also allow families to live in close proximity to each other. For an elderly parent, an apartment or condo in the same building is almost mandatory.
We ended up having lunch in Chinatown, perhaps the cleanest Chinatown we have ever seen. We had some noodles and dim sum, which reminded us of home. But the highlight of the tour was seeing the famous Raffles Hotel, the place where the Singapore Sling drink was first concocted. I knew we just had to go back there on our own for a drink and a walk through perhaps the most famous hotel in all of Asia.
That night, we made plans to see the famous Singapore Safari Night Zoo. The uniqueness lies in the animal habitat without bars or cages. The zoo utilizes moats and natural barriers to keep animals as close to their natural home as possible. There is just enough light to spot the animals and their offspring. They were also fed their evening meal around the time we went on our tour. This was portayed as a must see here. But the animals appeared rather sedate, even the nocturnal predators.
Now, the next day was rather unpleasant. It started out great, as Sheri and I took a cab to the famous Raffles Hotel for our Singapore Sling, invented by Ngiam Tong Boon between 1910 and 1915. It was founded in 1887 by the famous Sarkies brothers, and named for Sir Thomas Raffles. Famous guests include: Michael Jackson, Elizabeth Taylor, Charlie Chaplin, Rudyard Kipling, Joseph Conrad, George H.W. Bush, Jean Harlow and QE2.
But they would NOT let us inside with our bermuda shorts (even though it is hot). Then I fell ill while walking the outer grounds there. I laid down on a bench, but managed to buy a souvenir baseball cap. Sheri hailed a cab for us, so we headed back to the hotel. I am sure the cab driver was not happy with me, as I was pretty sick. I spent the rest of the day in bed, drinking and eating very little. I don’t know what is was other than a 24 hour bug. And I was so dizzy that I had difficulty staying on the twin bed!
I managed to get out of bed the next day, very weak and tired. I managed to make my way down famous Orchard Avenue, the crown jewel of shoppers in Singapore. We were expecting high fashion, but found that electronics were the main draw. But, we finally got to partake in the famous Singapore food courts and hawker stalls. Though my apetite was not fully back to normal, we marveled at the food choices and the reasonable prices. It is truly a foodies dream come true. We tried some steaming hot noodles, a rice dish, and the best rice pudding we had ever encountered. Just my luck to have an entire day go to waste.
Singapore is a nice place, but a little too organized and sterile for us. It lacks a soul or a charm, if you know what I mean. People, though friendly, do not exhibit the same warmth as in places like Laos or Thailand. It would be a safe and clean place to live. The school system is among the best in the world. The economy provides lots of jobs and social programs. What is there not to like? It just seemed too good to be true.
Cultures
A few years ago, I wanted to take Sheri to see the Grand Canyon. We flew into Phoenix, and rented a car for the drive up to Williams, Arizona for the night. Once we got to the hills, we hit a snowstorm. We made it to the hotel, despite nature’s best effort to send us slipping and sliding off of the freeway. I call it driving by the braille method.
We were headed to the Grand Canyon Railway Hotel in Williams. It is a huge hotel owned by the Grand Canyon Railway. It has a huge indoor pool, and large dining and shopping facilities. Whether I would call it magical or tacky, we were excited about the train ride to the Grand Canyon the next day. The snow would only make that much more beautiful. The hotel, railway, and meals are sold in a package, and the very best way to do this trip. I would advise against driving to the canyon, if only to keep this magnificent area as green as possible.
Our drive up to Williams, just past Sedona, is almost due north of Phoenix. Once we got into the hills, it started to snow profusely. Traffic was stopped for about an hour while road clearing equipment made their way to our area. It was not a good feeling, as it was getting darker, while the snow was getting heavier. As we limped toward Williams, what we could see around dusk was just beautiful.
While the Hotel was not the most plush place we have ever stayed, it served its purpose. It was warm and dry. The cafeteria style dinner would work out just fine. The food was fairly non descript, but the great hall in which we ate was rustic and spectacular. We found the staff to be very friendly, and still full of Holiday cheer. All of us in the dining room were anxious for our trip to the Grand Canyon the next morning. We walked the hotel grounds and the train station area, both decorated for the Christmas Holidays. With the fresh snow, the Christmas lights, and the real snowmen, it was a scene out of a children’s story book.
Again, the next morning, we, and the hotel guests, ate our breakfast, while eager to begin our journey to the greatest natural wonder in the world. First, we had to negotiate our way through the busy train station. There were about three trains ready to take off for the Canyon. This chaos did allow us a little time to shop, and find out that our train would be second for departure.
When our train pulled up, we had to find the club car, since we upgraded, which I would highly recommend to all of you, especially those of you with young kids. Besides the obvious bar and snack service, the club car has much more room, and a personalized conductor/concierge to plan our trip once we get to the Canyon. As the journey begins, the low hills start with some sparse pines, then rapidly becomes heavily forested. We decided to skip the bus tour and do most of our sightseeing on foot.
As we approached the Grand Canyon, the excitement was just too much to contain. Kids and adults were as giddy as high school cheerleaders. We opted to walk over to the Canyon for a quick view, then lunch at the El Tovar Hotel dining room. First, it is hard to just take a glimpse of the Canyon without the sheer size and grandeur overwhelming each person. The snow we faced the evening before, was now our friend. The canyon was fully dressed for winter, and it was spectacular!!!
But let me tell you about lunch. The dining room at the El Tovar built in 1905, was more spectacular than the huge dining room at the Railway Hotel. It is the most luxurious lodging available on the south rim of the canyon. It gets better, as Sheri ordered a burger. Not just any burger, but maybe the best burger either of us have ever had. I can’t even remember what I ordered, but it paled in comparison. And the views from the dining room provided a great back drop to a busy lunch. When we go back, the El Tovar would be a great place to stay for a night or two. Now, we needed to head out on foot, walk off our lunch, take photos, buy some souvenirs, and enjoy the views.
Consensus is that the Grand Canyon was carved by the Colorado River over six million years. It is 277 miles long, and from 4 to 18 miles wide, and one mile deep. Two billion years of the earth’s history are exposed. Six hundred deaths have occurred here, primarily overzealous photographers. Since I don’t like heights, I cannot get too close to the edge, even if there is a barrier. Many locations along the path do NOT have a barrier. It makes walking on snow and ice a little bit of an adventure. In 1919, the Grand Canyon achieved National Park status. Five million visitors enjoy the same or similar views as we, each year. A good way to see it all is to fly over, which I have done many times.
One of the best things to do is to find a quiet bench, sit down, and just take in the incredible view and enormous Canyon vistas. As many writers have said, the Canyon makes each of us feel rather insignificant, for its sheer size, and its place in history. We began to view the spectacular colors, formations, and canyon floor. Some winter animals can also be spotted down below. I am not sure whether it is the size or the beauty of the canyon that stands out most. It is just too hard to make a determination. I will leave it up to you, as any description I provide would fall far short of its magnitude and brilliance. Perhaps it is just an overwhelming experience, so just look, enjoy, and feel.
After getting walked out, we headed back to our train. The ride back was rather quiet for most of us. We were tired, needed some hot chocolate or a hot toddy. We faced a 4 hour drive back to Scottsdale. All of a sudden, the beautiful snow we admired at the canyon, would become our nemesis for the next hour or so. Our car was covered with about two feet of snow. After I dug it out, we headed out, and back to the flatlands. This was a rather mundane end to a spectacular day and one of the most memorable experiences in our lives.
Subsequent visits to the Grand Canyon were done by auto from Sedona, or Scottsdale.
Most of you know I have no problem going on trips by myself. But take a look at this survey on Travel Pulse:
Solo travel is increasingly popular but, according to a new Allianz Global Assistance survey, there are still many people who have yet to travel alone.
The survey found that 30.4 percent of Americans say they have never traveled alone, and those who have are more than five times as likely to travel domestically rather than internationally.
The survey also found that most respondents who said that they had traveled solo had done so for business, rather than for pleasure. Just over 27 percent said that they traveled alone on a domestic business trip while 21 percent said they traveled alone for leisure. On an international trip, 3.2 percent said that they traveled for business and slightly more, 4.8 percent, indicated they left the country alone for a leisure trip.
The survey found that men are more likely to travel solo. More than 35 percent of women said they had never traveled alone, and 25.2 percent of men said they had never traveled alone.
Of course, safety is a major concern when hitting the road alone but mostly for women. More than 76 percent of men said that they have never felt unsafe while traveling alone. In contrast, just 60.3 percent of women said the same.
While men may not feel unsafe, male solo travelers seem more susceptible to theft, with almost 10 percent (9.7 percent) reporting that they have been mugged or pickpocketed (versus 6.1 percent of women).
Harassment is definitely more of an issue for women on the road. Almost 40 percent of women (38.9 percent) said that they have been catcalled while traveling alone, compared to just 11.6 percent of men.
More than a quarter of Americans (25.6 percent) say they have been overcharged or ripped off while traveling alone.
Females concerns are similar: Being out after dark is the second most concern for women (26.3 percent), followed by violence/terrorism (15.7 percent), natural disaster (9.6 percent) riding public transportation (9.4 percent), security/safety of drivers (7.8 percent) and visiting a restaurant/bar (3.7 percent).
Women employ a variety of strategies to stay safe when traveling solo. Nearly sixty percent (59.9 percent) of women avoid walking at night to keep themselves safe while traveling alone. Forty-seven percent inform others of their location, and more than 32 percent avoid conversations with strangers. Other strategies include dressing in a way that won’t draw attention (30 percent), moderating alcohol consumption (27 percent), and avoiding busy tourist areas (14 percent).
Surprisingly, there are still many female solo travelers who don’t employ any of these strategies, nearly 20 percent, according to the survey.
Needless to say, I have a few comments to add. When I travel alone, I feel free. I have no commitments for activities, meals, or rest. But I never really feel alone. I often join a walking tour led by a local, or find out the best place to hang out with locals. Or, I just wander around until I find something of interest to me.
When I traveled on business, it seemed like I was busy, all the time. Less time for myself, and always thinking about work, and getting back home ASAP. Leisure travel is totally different. The focus is fun and meaningful experiences, which should be the focus.
By far, the most intimidating event for women is dining alone. This is easily solved. I generally pick a restaurant or bar with a counter. This not affords a great view of the restaurant, it increases the likelihood of interaction with other guests. On a recent trip to Amsterdam, I ended up at the counter of a seafood bistro. Unable to get a table, I sat at the bar, and met some rather interesting people.
First, I met a pair, man and woman, traveling on a business trip from Luxembourg. Quite friendly, but then it gets better. They were soon replaced by a local couple, a veterinarian with a TV show, and his Indonesian wife. They ended up sharing their dinner with me. We had several rounds of drinks, and ended the evening with a shared dessert. It was a most enjoyable evening that started out alone.
And you probably remember the story of my adventures on the Trans Siberian Railway a few years back. On the first part of the trip, I was in first class, though certainly not a first class experience. The, after missing my train in Ekaterinburg, I was stuck in a second class roomette with three stinky Russians. Fortunately for me, I met up with three Russian Ph.D. candidates, on their way back from a convention. We spent the next few days talking, sharing food, and otherwise passing the time in a most enjoyable way! It was probably the most enjoyable part of my entire Trans Siberian trip.
I encourage you to do a solo trip at least once in your life. It will change your outlook! Though I enjoy traveling with someone, I find the solo trip truly liberating. Time and hunger are my friends. I do what I want, when I want. And I eat when I am hungry!!!
Since we just finished the Summer Olympics in Beijing, our thoughts turn to the Winter Olympics in Vancouver in 2010. We would like to attend, since we have been to the summer games. Vancouver is a great city, with lots to do, great food, excellent shopping, and friendly Canadians everywhere. It is a busy, vibrant, and active city, catering to the young, the young at heart, and the tourists.
We have been to Vancouver several times now. Each time, we seem to find more and more to bring us back. Of course, we go in the summer, when the weather is just outstanding. It will be cold, and snowy for the Winter Olympics. Of course, many of the venues will be north of Vancouver, like Whistler, and parts north.
For those of you overseas, you know the story. When Hong Kong reverted back to China, huge numbers of people and money flowed out, mostly to Vancouver. A huge building boom followed. It is quite a cosmopolitan city, as if it was not already. It has a great old Chinatown, and a new Chinatown in the making. Most of my Chinese friends tell me that Vancouver has the best Chinese food in the world. And I humbly agree.
Vancouver is the largest city in British Columbia. Named after British explorer, George Vancouver, it has a population of 620,000, and 2.2 million in the metro area. Plus it is always ranked as one of the three most livable cities in the world. It contains only 44 square miles, but has one of the largest urban parks in 1000 acre Stanley Park. Average rainfall is 48 inches, so its weather is similar to Seattle.
We found out that Vancouver has strict rent control in place. Each year, there is a lottery for apartments, many of which have great views of the water and city skyline. Most places rent for under $1000 US per month. It is tempting to think about spending a portion of the year here. Since it is considered a city of neighborhoods, I am sure we could find something to keep us happy.
This is a very walkable city, although slightly hilly in some places. Each of the neighborhoods has a strong identity. The best way to see it all first is to take the Trolley Tour around the city, allowing us to jump on and off as much as we want from 9am to 7pm. It covers each of the major neighborhoods, Stanley Park, Granville Island, Yaletown, Gastown, Chinatown, Olympic venues, and the coastal and river areas of the city. The drivers are very informative, and very patient, compared to our tour buses here.
We always stay on Robson Street, the main street, and is a vibrant, young and noisy street. We never rent a car, as we take a cab or limo from the airport each time. The Listel Hotel is an art lover’s dream, with a great location, within walking distance to lots of shopping and restaurants. Much like Montreal, it is hard to find a bad place to eat. We found a coffee shop (Zin) just down the street, that can work for any meal of the day, plus it has a bar. It is Canada’s 2nd most expensive city, but that does not seem to stop the young people from eating, shopping and drinking their way home each night form work. Weekends are a madhouse on the sidewalks. And there are some homeless on the streets that may pose a problem for the Olympics.
Our favorite place to dine is CinCin, also on Robson. CinCin excels in Italian inspired wood-fired cuisine, award-winning wines, and true hospitality. From the open wood-fired kitchen, an ingredient-driven menu sets the tone with distinctive dishes embracing the sensibilities of the Mediterranean, while outstanding desserts demonstrate the Michelin star-studded pedigree of acclaimed Chef Patissier Thierry Busset.
Vancouver also has their own version of the Fringe Festival, much like Edinburgh, Scotland. It is not nearly as varied or as large. But it is the best one in North America, or should we say, the New World? Music of all types flourishes here as well. Pearl Jam could just as easily been born here as in Seattle. Most of the big name entertainers make a stop here as well.
The Fish House, located in Stanley Park, is a good place to get your fill of Canadian seafood and vegetables. The chef, Karen Barnaby, is an author, and has won numerous awards. Even if you decide not to eat here, the view is great and the drinks are intoxicating. Or is it the other way around?
Hon’s Downtown at 1339 Robson, is the place for lunch or snacks. They must have a hundred wait staff, cooks, and busboys. Every noodle dish has been fantastic, and cheap. My friend, Ray Lee, who is Chinese, said it is the best noodles he has ever had. I second that. In Chinatown, Harbor Pacific, and Ridge Garden always have a complete menu, lots of fresh fish, and a few chalk board surprises.
Our favorite Korean is almost across the street as well. It is called Dae Bak Bon Ga, which is a mouthful in Korean. But you will enjoy the mouthful of great kalbi and chicken, grilled right at your table. An assortment of condiments and pickled vegetables complement your meat dishes, along with a few cold beers to cool off the heat you just consumed. Spice Alley is another place nearby, a little more casual, great tasting food, but VERY noisy and crowded.
In the Pacific Palisades Hotel, we like their coffee shop called Zin. It is hard to go wrong with their big breakfasts or their hearty lunches. It is always crowded, so don’t shy away. The food is worth the wait. Though dining is available outside, Vancouver just has too many smokers, both walking by and dining here.
Another good place to graze, and shop is the Granville Island Public Market. Here, not only do we find fresh fruit and veggies, but the best of other Vancouver food and drink. It is a pleasant place to stroll, have a latte, and buy a few souvenirs for the folks back home. Some of the bakeries are very French, and very good. Again, I dare you to leave there without eating something. Ice cream is another BC treat, as the countryside has many dairies and farms nearby.
Grouse Mountain is only 15 minutes away and the Grouse Mountain Skyride as you embark on a one-mile journey to the mountaintop. Grouse Mountain comes alive in the summertime. Discover the World Famous Lumberjack Show, The Refuge for Endangered Wildlife, Birds in Motion Demonstrations and an array of mountain top nature trails. Grouse Mountain also offers a winter wonderland of adventure including 25 ski and snowboard runs, 10km of snowshoe trails, sleighrides, an 8,000 sq. ft. outdoor skating rink and much more! The dining options available at Grouse Mountain are as endless and as stunning as the views.
Other attractions are not far away. Victoria Island and Butchart Gardens are just a short boat or ferry ride away. The Canadian Rockies and Whistler Mountain are a couple hours away. We have enjoyed our drives outside of the city, especially to the Okanagan Valley and its growing wine country. It will be very interesting to see how Vancouver will compare to other Olympics, especially the one just completed in Beijing. One common element is that both areas have many Chinese residents.
Canada has always been a great place to vacation. It is close enough to drive, or cheap enough to fly. Our dollar, while not as strong as a few years ago, is still a good value. The food is outstanding and fresh. The people are friendly. Sounds pretty good to me!
When travelers mention Hawaii, everybody says Waikiki, Kauai, Big Island or Maui. Few say anything about the island known for pineapples, Lanai, just a short ferry boat ride across the Auau channel from Lahaina, Maui. We were talked into a day trip to Lanai by our dear friend, Debbie, several years ago. We had just met her on a golf course a few days prior. She invited us to join her, her ex husband Tom, and another golfing couple. We jumped at the chance, although I had to prepare for the ocean voyage with my sea bands, patch, and meclizine tablets.
Lanai is the 6th largest island in Hawaii, and has only one town, Lanai City. It is only 140 square miles, and has only about 3100 residents. It is best known for its pineapples, and the Dole Company of David Murdock. It is not a separate county, and lies under the control of Maui County. Only three hotels are located here, the large Four Seasons Manele, and Lodge at Koele, and the small, rustic, Lanai Hotel. The big attractions here are the golf courses at the two large resorts. Before the resorts were built, only day trips to Lanai were allowed.
We caught an early morning ferry from Lahaina Harbor and met up with the two golfing couples. I managed to stay well for the trip over and back, as it seemed a miracle for me. The best part of the ride over: spotting some whales, and being guided by a large school of dolphins crisscrossing over our bow. I soon forgot about motion sickness, and started to enjoy the trip.
We landed in little Lanai Harbor, and caught a small shuttle bus to the Lodge at Koele. There is not much to see on the way there. Some pineapples are still grown, but much of the land is vacant. We passed little Lanai City, and got some snacks and sodas. As we approached the Lodge, we saw a herd of deer in the trees. The Lodge is an imposing sight on an island without any tall structures. It almost looks out of place here.
We then were dropped at the Koele Golf Course, and went out as a five some, with Sheri driving my cart. I managed to keep up with Tom and the other guy, even though they were better golfers. Debbie was much better than the other lady, but we had a great round, even when it misted a little. The ladies decided to take the shuttle back to the hotel after 18 holes, dry off, and have some coffee or a drink.
Meanwhile, Tom and the other guy talk me into a little wager for 9 more holes. Both were better players, but I reluctantly said I would play them straight up, in other words, they were not giving me any strokes. All of a sudden, like magic, I am playing better. We get to the 325 yard 8th hole, where our second shot must go over a large lake to a small peninsula shaped green. During the first 18, I tried to drive the green, only to splash a few feet short.
Since we had such a huge bet, drinks in the bar after, I decided to lay up with a 6 iron, then go for the green. It was my lucky day, as I stuck the ball about 3 feet from the pin, made the birdie, and assured myself the win. Little did I know how fortuitous this would be.
We finished the 9 holes, and went back over to the hotel to meet the girls. We took a quick tour of this magnificent hotel, and settled into the bar. We were the only ones there. Tom and the other guy had to buy the drinks. Though Sheri and I had a soda, the four of them opted for big time drinks. Each round was about $50!!! We had 3 rounds before the shuttle bus came to take us back to the harbor. The drinks cost more than the day trip and golf.
We plan to go back someday and stay at this luxurious, and empty hotel. It would be completely ours, as only 7 couples were registered there. It is a little pricey, but worth a one or two day splurge and a visit to their spa.
Meanwhile, on the dusty road back, the guys want to stop in Lanai City for some beer. We invaded this little mom and pop store, and bought some 6 packs for the 20 minute ride. I opted for my second soft drink of the afternoon.
Here is the best part. With so much intake, we had to do a little output. So, we ran over to the outdoor toilets in a nearby park near the harbor. Dusk was well upon us, and we had no lights or enclosures on this slight upgrade from an outhouse. I had to stand guard with my back to the toilet so the girls could go potty. We truly went from the penthouse at the Lodge to the outhouse at the park.
We ran to catch the ferry and were the last ones on board. It was the last ferry of the day, so we really cut it close. The dark ride back was smoother than the ride over. We sat alone on the top deck, beer in hand, memories intact. It was a great way to spend the day with a friend who would become so dear to us through the years. Thank you Debbie.
Most of our trips to Malaysia have been to the islands off of Malaysia, on the Andaman Sea. Langkawi, and later Penang have become our islands of choice in Southeast Asia. I will tell you why in this story. First, Langkawi, with only 45,000 inhabitants, is located 30 km off the coast of northwest Malaysia, on the Straits of Malacca, and consisting of 99 islands. The name Langkawi comes from lang which means eagle, and kawi is Sanskrit for marble, which is plentiful on the island.
We were strongly recommended by our Malay/British family friends that the Datai Resort on Langkawi is a must stay and do on our trip to Malaysia. We first stopped in Kuala Lumpur for a taste of the big city. We always wanted to see the blending of cultures evident throughout Malaysia. Buddhists, Chinese, and Muslims mingle and live quite freely and without discord. KL itself is a vibrant city with the iconic Petronas Twin Towers (once the tallest buildings in the world), a famous Chinatown, and a shopping mecca for all of SE Asia.
The highlight here though, was meeting our friend Angela. We were introduced to her through our Malaysian friend Sohbee, who went to Diablo Valley College with Sheri. She made sure we would be cared for properly when we got to KL. She put us in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 5 star, corner suite, which is right next door to the biggest shopping area in KL. KLCC is a huge, modern five story indoor mall.
But more than that, she arranged for us to meet her dear friend, Angela. Angela arranged for a half day tour for us. Then she and a friend met us in Chinatown for an authentic Malay Chinese dinner. To top it off, she introduced us to durian, the king of fruit. I call it the stinky fruit, the only one that Andrew Zimmern of Bizarre Foods, will NOT eat. I don’t like it either, but Sheri, Angela, and Sohbee just love it. She took us to an outdoor stand filled with durian and rambutan fruit. My first bite told me that I could not handle it. Sheri was the same way, but found upon subsequent tries, that it is definitely an acquired taste. She loves it now.
We have become good friends now with Angela as well. She met us in Sydney a few years ago. She took us to Chinatown, and some sightseeing. She has become our eyes and ears for our trips to Malaysia and surrounding countries. We hope she will visit us here in the US soon, so that we can repay her many kindnesses.
So, we take a short flight from KL to Langkawi. We are picked up by a big black Mercedes, with a guy holding a placard with our name on it. He loads us up, and drives us about 30 minutes to the north end of this beautiful island. We passed by the main town, Kuha, which is not much more than a wide spot in the road. Langkawi is also a duty free island, and was granted World Geopark status by UNESCO. But tourism is a big part of the island now. Many KL residents come here for a holiday away from the big city.
As we approached the Datai, we really did not know what to expect. It turns out that we could see Thailand (a small island) across the sound from the Datai. Situated on the northwestern tip of Langkawi Island, The Datai is nestled inside an ancient tropical rainforest, with a secluded white sandy beach facing the calm Andaman Sea.
Some people think a hotel is just a bed for the night but a stay in The Datai will change that perception. Built on stunning scenery which leaves the heart fully-warmed; The Datai provided an experience of Langkawi like no other.
Blended with nature and tradition, we looked around and noticed a subtle luxury that we have never seen before or since. The Datai was simple, and elegant at the same time. A very civilized check in process welcomed us here. A cold towel, and a cool iced tea were brought to us while we registered on a couch. We were led to our room by a young female staffer in a full length traditional dress.
Our room seemed rather ordinary at first. But then we realized we had a sitting area, office space, and a huge double vanity/bathroom facility. In fact, it was as big as the room itself. The most significant feature was the his and hers bathrooms. We could see both the pool, and the Thai island across the sea from our sitting room. A large fruit basket and a refrigerator full of drinks were also provided.
Sheri was a little tired, so I made my way around the hotel. My first stop was the Lobby Lounge, and a tall, cold Thai beer. Then I walked down to the white, sandy beach facing Thailand. It is then I realized we were in the middle of a rainforest. I also found the Beach Club, and made reservations for the big BBQ buffet dinner in the evening. We were also told that a wedding was being held on the grounds. I also found out that we had an 18 hole golf course, mountain biking, 2 pools, spa, health club, and tennis. Several day trips were available to uninhabited islands in the Andaman Sea, along with lots of water sports.
We made our way down the trail, bridges and stairs to the ocean, and the Beach Club. We really did not know what to expect, but we saw a beautiful sunset across the Andaman Sea. After a cocktail, we headed over to the food. Every type of meat and fish was being barbecued. Every Malay, Chinese, and Thai side dish was available. The fruit table was piled about 3 feet high. We could not eat much, but we certainly could have. We ate so much that we had to take the shuttle back up to the resort after dinner.
The next morning, we had a stunning breakfast in the hotel dining room. The best part was all of the fresh fruit, peeled, cut, and cleaned for us to enjoy. Sheri went back to the room, and I headed for 18 holes at the Datai’s golf course.
But the highlight of our visit here was about to happen. I went to the internet room next door to the gift shop. I started some emailing, and I met Jason and Chun, who lived on the island of Penang, about 2 hours south by ferry.
Jason was going to conduct the wedding ceremony, and Chun would accompany him. He was comped the room for 2 nights for performing the ceremony. We struck up a lively conversation, later saw each other in the bar, and decided to have dinner together. But this would be after he performed the ceremony down at the beach.
We decided, by default, to eat poolside, for a greater variety of food. We ended up eating and talking for four hours. We really connected with them, as they invited us to visit them in Penang on our next visit to Malaysia. So even though we had only two nights at the Datai, we were headed for Penang the next year (and many subsequent visits).
The Datai is a place that is visited just once. It is both unique and expensive. We will savor the two nights forever. That was really our first stay in the rainforest. And our first stay on such a small island. We had monkeys at our patio door most evenings. The sounds of the jungle, at first a little frightening, were a welcome chorus for falling asleep. The staff at the Datai is without equal anywhere in the world. It is an experience of a lifetime.
I had the good fortune to be in Munich, Germany for the famous Oktoberfest in 1971. It is one of the unique events in the world, the Super Bowl of beer, the Taj Mahal of hops, the Sahara Desert of suds. Oktoberfest is a 16 day festival, held in late September, and early October. It is one of the most famous events in the city and the world’s largest fair, with some six million people attending every year, and is an important part of Bavarian culture.
Oktoberfestbiers are the beers that have been served at the event in Munich since 1818, and are supplied by 6 breweries known as the Big Six: Hofbrau, Spaten, Lowenbrau, Paulaner, Augustiner, and Hacker-Schorr. Since the 1970s the type of beer served at the festival has been a pale lager between 5 and 6% abv, and the terms Oktoberfest and Märzen are used by non-Oktoberfest brewers in Germany and the USA to market pale lagers of this strength.
Visitors also eat huge amounts of food, most of it traditional hearty fare such as sausage, chicken, cheese noodles, sauerkraut, apple pancakes, ox tails, mackerel, and radish. After gorging on sausage, I settled down to mackerel amd radish with my beer. I ate so much sausage that I got sick. But I found out that I really like German food. In particular, I like sauerbraten, which is a type of marinated beef, served with sauerkraut and potato pancakes. It turns out that the greasy spoon in Pleasant Hill where I eat breakfast before playing golf, makes sauerbraten on the first Thursday of every month. And believe it or not, it is better than the sauerbraten I had in Germany.
Oktoberfest started back in 1810, to commemorate the wedding of Crown Prince Ludwig (later King Ludwig I) and Princess Therese. In 1812, the Oktoberfest was cancelled since Bavaria was involved with the Napoleonic Wars. To honor the marriage of King Ludwig I and Therese of Bavaria, a parade took place for the first time in 1835. In 1887, the Entry of the Oktoberfest Staff and Breweries took place for the first time. This event showcases the decorated horse teams of the breweries and the bands that play in the festival tents. This event always takes place on the first Saturday of the Oktoberfest and symbolizes the official prelude to the Oktoberfest celebration.
By 1960, the Oktoberfest had turned into an enormous world-famous festival. A big problem occured with the younger people who overestimate their ability to handle large amounts of alcohol. Many pass out due to intoxication. To keep the Oktoberfest, and especially the beer tents, friendly for older people and families, the concept of the “quiet Oktoberfest” was developed in 2005. Until 6:00 PM, the tents only play quiet music, for example traditional wind music.
To give an idea of the enormity of the event, I list the statistics and quantities of food served:
Seats in the festival halls: ca. 100,000
Visitors: 6.2 million
Beer: approx. 69 million liters (1.2 million liters non-alcoholic)
Wine: 79,624 litres
Sparkling wine: 32,047 litres
Coffee, tea: 222,725 litres
Water, lemonade: 909,765 ½ litres
Chicken: 521,872 units
Pork sausages: 142,253 pairs
Fish: 38,650 kg
Pork knuckles: 58,446 units
Oxen: 104 units
My assessment of Oktoberfest is a huge party, complete with great food, carnival type rides, friends drinking together, and great tasting beer. The beer fraus carry a dozen or so liter mugs full of beer to the various tables. This feat of strength was impressive to all of us, especially after we had a few too many.
I was fortunate to meet up with three German guys, and their female friend. I only remember Hanz and Jurgen. Both drank way too much, but were quite funny and real jokesters. They took a liking to me since I spoke a little German back then. We met each day at the Lowenbrau outdoor biergarten, and stayed for 4-5 hours. Then we jumped in a cab to one of their local hangouts. It turns out that both Jurgen and Hanz liked the same young lady, whose name I cannot remember.
Fortunately, I had a room by the train station (Bahnhof). So, when it was time to leave, I just had to tell the cabbie that I wanted the train station. But on Monday, when my new pals went back to work, I was alone at the biergarten. Much like Monday mornings in the U.S., most Germans are either calling in sick and taking care of a massive hangover. I realized then, that the fun I had was due to my new friends, not the beer and food. We exchanged letters for many years after that. But I have never made it back to the Oktoberfest since. I will have to put it back on the list of things to do, perhaps in a more sober or mature manner.
