My second trip to Greece in less than six months may not seem very adventurous to you.  But I plan to make up for what little I saw last May, when the weather was too hot to do anything.  So, I am hoping for weather in the 70s, cooler evenings, and more outdoor activities.  We had several downpours as well, mostly in the evening.

But I plan on visiting the friends I made on my last visit, Stavros, George, and Vasili.  And I also plan on getting more adventurous with my Greek meals, wine, and neighborhoods.  I know how to use the Metro and can get most anywhere on the mainland.  But as you know, walking the big city is one of my big thrills when I travel.  I also met a young Belarus girl, who also works there.  Karina is studying to join the travel industry, and loves to speak English, along with her Greek and Russian.

Interesting things happen here.  Just as I am paying for my dinner, after FIVE complimentary glasses of house white wine, the staff asked me to stay a few more minutes.  The couple next to me, from Connecticut, were about to have a marriage proposal.  She was totally surprised, and he even got on his knee to propose.  The place went bonkers!!!

Another morning hangout, since I try to stay away from the big chains, is a local crepe shop.  The owner’s father owned the space as a tailoring business.  I found out that 800 Euros a month is the average salary in Athens and rent runs about 750 Euros for a 2-bedroom apartment.  He was shocked when I told him that 800 Euros a DAY was a common wage in California, he was in total shock.

In the true tradition of my regular travel buddy, Mr. Mike, I have vowed to maintain walking the neighborhoods in Athens.  I have found the cutest little cafes, tavernas, and shops.  He would be proud of me!!!  Until I got lost!  So, I just jumped on the Metro, and whisked back to the Acropolis stop where I stay.

So a few nights ago, I am walking back to my hotel after a long 4-hour dinner with my friends.  About a block away from my hotel, I can “feel” a guy following me. I keep turning around, he keeps gaining on me.  I speed up, he speeds up.  All of a sudden, he crosses the street in front of me as I approach the front door to my hotel.    

I allow him to pass by first, but he stops and asks if I am Chinese.  I said no, Japanese.  He said your English is quite good.  Of course, I am from California!!!  He is a Singaporean, and just needed to speak to an Asian face.  He is a rep for Issey Miyake!!!  In general, there are more Singaporeans here than people from Japan or China.

I met an interesting character last night from Kansas.  It was Wilfred Brimley, Jr.!!!!

I also met some other interesting people.  A newlywed couple on my bike ride from Toronto have an interesting several years ahead of themselves.  While she has a new career as a personal trainer (formerly a CPA), he is an engineer headed to Khabarovsk, Russia to build a gold mine.  They were quite curious when I told them about my journey on the Trans-Siberian Railway across Russia.  They are expecting good food, and the joke is on them!!

I met another couple at dinner, both from Panama, but also holding American passports.  Most interestingly,  Eric imports used clothing and sells them through several of his thrift stores.  They could not get married in Panama due to the pandemic, so instead, held a small wedding and reception in Miami earlier this year.

We toasted my last evening in Athens with a bottle of champagne (last time was a cheap Prosecco).  The gang, namely spearheaded by Chef Stavros, made a big speech in front of everyone.  He told them I was his brother from another mother, and another father!!!  They can’t wait to see me again next May!  They even offered me a job.

Oh, and I just had to buy another bottle of mastika to take home!  It made it home safely, not to worry.

Back in Frankfurt, the weather is decidedly colder, and somewhat wetter.  Despite two huge downpours in Athens last night, it stays relatively comfortable both day and night, rarely requiring a jacket.

Taking Ryan Air to and from Athens, I realize most of the passengers are young.  I was definitely the oldest person on the flight.  Why?  Perhaps it is the ultimate backpacker’s airline?  Or the limited schedule, and lack of amenities on board?  Believe me, I have been on many airlines that are not nearly as good.  It reminds me of Air Asia in SE Asia, efficient, simple, and easy.

The Haupt Bahnhof here has several decent places to eat.  Among them, seafood, a ton of bakeries, curry shops, pubs, fast food, slow food, even a crepe place, that does a very brisk business.  But since all of the bakeries seem to make lots of bread, and croissants, along with the usual assortment of sweet and savory pastries, it was time to dive in.

My favorite bakery has a manager who is just outstanding.  He greets everyone with a bright and cheery “Morgen”, then proceeds to fill their order, while starting another order.  He is the ultimate in German efficiency, and a pleasure to watch.  Speaking of pastries, theirs are outstanding and so reasonable priced.  As good or better than Paris, but so much cheaper!

I could not find a place for ham and eggs, so I bought the ultimate oxymoron of food.  It was a croissant stuffed with a wiener!!  It might have been the worst food combination I have tried in TEN years!!!  I was gagging, even as I think about it.

So, to settle my nerves and my stomach, I decided it was time for a hot bowl of pho.  Yes, the now universal pho, prevalent in countries around the world, now that Vietnamese cuisine has gone mainstream.  And it was really, really good.

Tons of beggars, beer drinkers, and homeless around the Frankfurt Haupt Bahnhof, even though I was told the area has been cleaned up.  It prefers to be called “edgy” now.  On the edge of what?  But I gave away most of my leftovers, and even donated a gym bag that I purchased for the short trip to Mallorca.

Speaking of good food, I dined at the best restaurant in Mallorca, El Txoko de Martin, or as I refer to it, “Martin’s.”  The facility is great, and the service is decent.  But it has a snobby vibe, and the most I could give the food is a 7 out of 10.  It also happened to be across the street from my hotel. 

I enjoyed the Mallorca Mercado much more, along with some of the local joints on the sidewalks.  I was able to sneak some Iberico ham home for me and Mr. Mike.

Sadly, the good people in Mallorca still hold Father Junipero Serra in high regard.  In fact, the Catholic Church is thriving here.  So different than here at home.  But then, why do they charge admission?

Back in Frankfurt, and dreary weather, I decided to forego more wine tasting.  Instead, I head to Frankfurt’s old town, Romer.  I found stunning Germany architecture, a lively crowd, cute stores, tons of tourists, and even an outdoor wedding reception outside the main church.  But I was so disappointed with the sauerbraten.  The one from Chef Burger in Pleasant Hill is far superior.

I met an interesting honeymoon couple from India, while on my wine tasting tour.  They were carrying a Nespresso machine! 

They said it is half the price in Germany as in India.  They were using it every day during their stay.  Both are physicians and had to forego the traditional big Indian wedding due to the pandemic.  They ended up with 30 to 40 people, perhaps a record for India!

I saw far more Asians in both Germany and Mallorca (Spain), than on previous trips.  Also, more Middle Easterns, with huge areas of kebab shops, and hammams.  But the overriding issue in Europe are the smokers, and now the kids vaping.  Thankfully, a covid mask helps immensely.  My guess is that 80 or 90% are smokers!  Men, women, teens.

Home is the best place.  I missed my two girls, my morning Peet’s coffee, my Eddie’s Bakery toast, the local news, my desktop computer, my bed, and mostly my Peloton.  I am headed back to Europe in May for my long-awaited cycling trip in Croatia.  I think it will be time to head east on my next big trip, Japan, Australia, or ??

So, here I am on the Spanish island of Mallorca.  The island is 98 km by 78 km, with 550 km of coastline.  Typically, this is not my normal type of trip, since I prefer bigger cities, since the entire island holds a little less than a million people.  Only Tenerife in the Canary Islands has a larger island population.

I am staying in Palma, the capital of both Mallorca, and the autonomous region of the Balearic Islands.  Autonomous since 1983, it has become one of the hottest party playgrounds in Europe, and the world.  They say the Brits and the Krauts love it down here.

The economy is based almost totally on tourism.  And speaking of which, cyclists fit into the tourist category.  Mallorca has a 24km cycle track, totally separate from the road.  The track is mostly along the water.  It is a must ride!!

As recently as 2017, over ten million tourists have invaded this small island.  And the ferry system is rather robust here as well.  The island is best known for its beautiful coastline, secluded coves (naked girls, Webb), limestone mountains, Spanish architecture, wineries, fresh produce farms, and stunning beaches.

On the downside, Father Junipero Serra was from Mallorca.  Though he played a major role in building the El Camino Real in California, he was a rather notorious priest.  A statue remains outside a church in his honor.  Former major league star Curt Flood has a bar here.  Rafa Nadal lives in Manacor.

On another positive note, Mallorca has over 70 different wine producers.  That makes me happy, cycling, wine, and seafood!!
After a little research, Mallorca has some churches, museums, and assorted tourist sights.  But it mostly appears to be “party central” for northern Europeans and some Americans.

You can count on me to give you the lowdown on this island.  I may not be the partier I once was, but I can recognize a good time from almost any distance.

Palma, its capital, is said to be vibrant but laid-back, full of street side cafes, and beautiful Spanish architecture.  It is also home to the large Gothic Roman church, the Cathedral of Santa Maria of Palma, or La Seu, as the locals call it.

Though I plan to cycle, the Port de Soller wooden tram is a cute way to get around.  But the party life resides in Magaluf, with famous clubs, tattoo parlors, piano bars, and the world famous BCM Planet Dance.  I promise no naked photos, as this is a PG 13 rated email today.

The highlight of my trip was accidentally finding the Mallorca Mercato, about a half mile from my hotel.  With a multitude of food and drink purveyors, sprinkled with many stand up and sit-down cafes, including a sushi bar, I found my happy place.  The meat and seafood selections were outstanding.  It made me wish I had a kitchen.  Maybe not.

But among the many food items, I noticed they had both types of persimmons, which I am now in the process of drying here at home.  The vegetables in particularly looked large and delicious.  But what really caught my eye were the various types of jamon.  After carefully circling all the shops, I settled on a shop with the best jamon.  I bought two, one for us, and one for Mr. Mike.

The bike ride in the afternoon was okay.  Only e bikes since the trek to the top of the hill was a bit steep.  The focus was on the big castle at the top of the hill, overlooking the massive harbor.  Franco converted it into a prison during his notorious tenure.  But we must have visited every church on this side of the island.  With so many churches, why does everyone smoke?  Anyway, many of the churches charge admission.  Strange!

By the way, the harbor was filled with all manner of boats, from sailboats, to fishing boats, and on to the mega yachts.  It was quite impressive, but not as impressive as Marbella and Porto Banus.

The poor kid guiding us is from Argentina, about an hour north of Buenos Aires.  He comes here to work for about 9 months out of the year, since most of South American is (in his words), corrupt and declining.  But he does return for 2 to 3 months during the Mallorcan winter, when the island is nearly deserted of tourists.  He says Chile is the only country doing well, I assume mostly for its huge lithium supply.

I decided to splurge on dinner.  I went to the best place on the island, El Txoko de Martin, across the street from my hotel.  I was the first customer of the day, at around 8pm.  They would not let me sit at a table, instead at the bar.  I almost left.  Though it turned out okay, the restaurant did begin to fill up around 9pm.  I noticed most of us who were casually dressed, like the golfers, were all placed at the bar.  The beautiful people got the tables!

Yes, it was pretty good, not that expensive, and an interesting experience.  The bartender/waiter was friendly, and so helpful with the menu.  When I told him I was not very hungry, he suggested a small appetizer before my paella.  It was a “hot dog ala Martin”.  See the attached photo, as it was hardly a hot dog, except for the unique bun and a few sliced pickles on top.  Dessert turned out to be quite good, the paella quite average.  The Alberino was just okay, but when in Spain…..

So, you know how I ended up here.  But would I go back?  Probably not, but the selection process was fun and interesting.  Safe for solo travelers.  And not terrible expensive, though the locals complain that it is.  Gas runs about $10 USD a gallon!
Meanwhile, back to Frankfurt, and my flight home.  I had to send this after I returned home.  Auf Wiedersehen!

Most of you who know me, know that I travel with my good buddy, Mr. Mike, or I travel solo.  Mike is the BEST travel buddy ever.  We are not joined at the hip when we travel, though we have similar interests.  And we never, I repeat, never, talk about money!!

But perhaps you would like a different perspective on solo travel, other than mine.  I had the benefit of traveling solo on business throughout the late Seventies, and most of the Eighties.  And I was able to start traveling for pleasure at a fairly young age (to Europe), essentially, on my own.

The Point Guy has a great website, and email.  I strongly suggest that you subscribe, not only for travel, but their advice on best use of award points and airline miles to maximize your trips.  Here are some of his thoughts.

PG: For all sorts of reasons, you might be faced with the choice of traveling alone, or not traveling at all. Your partner, friends or family may not be able to take the same time off work or they may just not be as keen on the destination as you are. But that doesn’t mean you’re stuck at home.  I love traveling by myself and have had some fantastic experiences abroad all on my own. In fact, sometimes I prefer traveling alone over traveling with others.

Now given a choice, I would choose Mr. Mike over solo travel.  But when we are traveling, we always have the option to go in different directions.  He loves to walk the cities, I love the trains and public transportation.  I enjoy a museum or two, he prefers the street culture.  But both of us are foodies, enjoy good wine and beer, and love to engage locals in conversation.

The best reason for solo travel is freedom.  Sleep in or get up early.  Coffee in the room or find a nearby coffee joint.  Hit a bus or walking tour or explore on my own.  Skip lunch or have beer and French fries.  Take a nap or rent a bicycle.  You get the idea.

PG: Long story short: You don’t have to do anything you don’t want just because someone you would travel with wants to do it.  

Meeting new people is easier when traveling alone.  While I was in Greece, both in Athens and Santorini, I made lifelong friends.  Most of you know I have friends all over the world, from places like Cambodia, Malaysia, Peru, Japan, South Africa, Thailand, Mexico, Switzerland, and now Greece.

Plus, I’ve found that being the lone foreigner at a bar or café quickly leads to interesting conversations.  In fact, just last week in Chicago, my new friends sitting at the bar at Joe’s Stone Crabs engaged in one of the best conversations I have experienced during the pandemic.

Solo trips also cost less.  But for me, the flexibility to change plans midstream is even better.  On my trip to Greece last May, after five days in Santorini, I decided to return to Athens for another six days, rather than head to more Greek islands.  

PG:  Traveling solo is not always perfect.  My solo trip on the Trans-Siberian Railway is a good example.  I missed my train, and had great difficulty rebooking on a later train, in second class, no less.  Nobody spoke English, save for an unexpected young stranger who came to my rescue while I was being severely admonished by the ticket agent.
For some people, mealtime is difficult.  My mornings always start with coffee in my room (I bring Peet’s, as you know).  Then I head out for a real breakfast.  This creates the option to have a light lunch or to skip it altogether.  A solo breakfast is no big deal.  Dinner is where some people feel alone.  Generally, I solve this by sitting at the bar and ordering my food there.  And from my business days, eating alone generally does not bother me.

So, where are the best places for solo travelers?  I lean toward bigger cities, like Bangkok, London, Buenos Aires, Washington, DC, Tokyo, Budapest, Athens, Paris, Chicago, Sydney, and Berlin.  Why?  There is always plenty to see, do, and eat.

I will admit to you that certain places should be avoided as a solo traveler.  Which ones?  Honeymoon and couples locations, of course!

I am not big on group tours.  I will do a half day “hop on hop off” bus tour, just to get my bearings in a big city.  But a big multi day tour is NOT my idea of fun!  The very last one we took to Peru to visit Cuzco, and Machu Picchu were a disaster.  Other people in the group were always late when the bus was leaving.  Foreigners pass gas whenever they want!  Skip the groups!!!

Many solo travelers prefer hostels since it is a great way to meet people.  Though my hostel days are over, I stayed in one recently in Dublin.  It was great fun, but noisy, and not that comfortable.  My desk chair was a tree stump.  And even though I had a room to myself, the noise level was quite high, and the room lacked basic amenities, like AC and extra towels.

Bottom line, just be open and approachable.  I know this is easy to say as a single male traveler.  But I have met many people, of both sexes, of all ages while traveling, and it can be done, safely.  Whatever you do, please do not hibernate in your room.