What is a second wine in Bordeaux??

To make the best possible wine (known as the grand vin), a top château will blend together only its very finest lots of wine from the most mature and well-sited vineyard plots. What happens to all the other wine? In many cases, the château makes a second wine, which will be less expensive and will have its own brand name and its own distinct label. (A second wine has nothing to do with a Second Growth). Some of the best known second wines include Carruades de Lafite-Rothschild (from Château Lafite-Rothschild), Château Haut-Bages-Averous (from Château Lynch-Bages), Le Petit Cheval (from Château Cheval Blanc), and Les Forts de Latour (from Château Latour).

One outcome, in Burgundy during the French Revolution:  At the end of the French Revolution, the abolition of the Ancien Régime, or Old Regime, stripped numerous privileges from the ruling classes. Larger vineyards owned by nobility and religious institutions were confiscated, divided, and re-distributed, resulting in many more producers who made much smaller amounts of wine. Interestingly, La Romanée is one of the few clos that was not divided in 1789.  The Conti family’s assets were confiscated, but for unknown reasons, this vineyard was spared from division. Today, the entirety of the La Romanée vineyard is owned by Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair whose wines are not the most expensive in the world, but pretty darn close. (Winespeed)

More woes for France?  A whopping 30% reduction in wine is anticipated from this year’s French harvest. The French Ministry of Agriculture expects a loss of up to 35.6 million hectoliters (940 million gallons) of wine nationally. French levels were last this low in 1977. Due to late frosts in April, persistent rains in June and July, and consistent drought in the south, many French regions are also preparing for higher prices.  GK:  Believe me, after visiting Bordeaux, and taking more than my share of abuse about being from California, and nearby Napa Valley, I do not feel sorry for the French.  But I hate to see any farmers lose $$!!

Ernest Hemingway was quite insightful:  “Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world and one of the most natural things of the world that has been brought to the greatest perfection, and it offers a greater range for enjoyment and appreciation than, possibly, any other purely sensory thing.”

Yes, global warming is changing the harvest season.  Take a look at Napa Valley:  The 2021 harvest began on July 30 in Napa Valley. The first winery to pick was St. Supéry harvesting 7 tons of Sauvignon Blanc. Honig began picking their Gordon Ranch vineyard on August 3rd. The earliest Napa harvest in the last several years was in 2015, when Mumm Napa began harvesting for sparkling wine on July 22nd. (Winespeed)

The longevity of a red wine is based on many factors, but the most important component is the wine’s tannin. Tannin is a natural preservative. All other things being held equal, wines with significant amounts of tannin live longer than wines without. Plants build tannins for protection, preservation, and defense. (Since Neolithic times, plant tannins have been used to prevent the spoilage of animal skins— when “tanning” hides into leather, for example). Consider a collector’s cellar. It’s usually filled with wines like Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux— wines that have a lot of tannin and therefore have a good chance of living well into the future. (Winespeed)

Can wine get sunburned?  Wine can’t. But wine grapes can. With climate change beginning to be observed in many warmer wine regions, winemakers are increasingly concerned about sunburned grapes. Like human skin, the grape skins can wrinkle, thicken, and get more leathery in response to too much direct sun. When such grapes are made into wine, the wine can often have a rustic, rough feel—exactly the opposite of what most winemakers hope for. To protect grapes from too much sun, wineries often grow grapes so that the clusters are partially shaded by the vines’ leaves.  It’s a tricky call, however, because too much shading could mean the grapes wouldn’t ripen properly and the resulting wine could taste like canned green beans. (Winespeed)

Since we are getting close to harvest season, due to global warming, the excitement of the 2021 vintage begins.  It seems there are numerous choices, both for wines, regions, and countries.  I strongly encourage you to drink what you enjoy, at reasonable prices, and forget what the “experts” say.

Greywacke sounds like something made with Grey Goose vodka, right?  Wrong!  New Zealand’s most famous soil, greywacke (GRAY wacky) is the mud-gray, hard, fractured, deformed residual rocky material that forms from the decay of sandstone. Greywacke soils have an amazing etiology. They are created as the water from large rivers cascades down the sides of continental shelves, creating turbidity currents and undersea avalanches. The power generated races along the bottom of the ocean for many miles, forming fan-shaped beds of sandy sediments. Over time, these deposits are buried by mud and harden, forming greywacke. The greywacke in New Zealand is largely Mesozoic in age and makes up most of the rock that forms the spine of the Southern Alps. Greywacke is also the principal rock of California’s Sonoma Coast.

And if you are feeling sorry for yourself in the middle of the summer heat and wildfires, consider this:  Ten million acres of wildfires are now burning in Sibera, in icy northern Russia—more than the combined number of acres burning in the U.S., Greece, Turkey, and Canada combined, according to the Wall St. Journal. The fires are sending choking smoke to the North Pole and blocking out sunlight.  NASA has estimated that smoke from the Siberian wildfires currently covers 2,000 miles from east to west and 2,500 miles from north to south. At this point, denying climate change is pure insanity.  Having been to Siberia, I can tell you they can handle the fires better than we can here in California.
From Winespeed:  Since so many of you wrote in (thank you!) inquiring about our favorite cheeses with Champagne, we thought we’d share our all-time favorites with you.
 
Our number one favorite cheese with Champagne is Crémeux des Cîteaux, a triple crème from Burgundy, France. We also asked some friends and colleagues about their favorites. Sommelier/educator Andrea Robinson, M.S., swears by Caserina Camembert di Bufala and Truffled Pecorino both from Italy. Todd Jasmine, the cheese expert at Oakville Grocery in Napa Valley, suggests Fiscalini Bandage Wrapped Cheddar from California and 30-month Gruyère from Switzerland.

Several of these sound rather expensive.  I stick with some basic cheeses from Trader Joe’s, like Brie, Camembert, Fontina, Gouda, and Stilton with dried apricots.  Green olives also go well, along with a nice selection of crackers and dried, cured meat.  BTW, have you ever made the famous FIVE cheese penne pasta I have mentioned numerous times???

Like many of you, I get tired of the big, oakey chardonnays.  But thankfully, Winespeed has read my mind:

In the United States, the popularity of big, oaky California Chardonnays led, in the late 1990s, to a still-thriving counter movement called ABC—Anything But Chardonnay. Today, scores of California winemakers talk about the importance of expressing elegance and balance in Chardonnay. Yet too few “walk the talk.” They may have moved their vineyards to cooler places, but many winemakers seem to have forgotten to move their mindsets and winemaking practices there, too. The audience for gas-pedal-to-the-floor, big, ripe, and oaky California Chardonnay isn’t going away. But if you’re an ABCer, here are a few really cool chardonnays made in a pure, minimalist, not-overripe style:

• Melville “Clone 76-Inox”
• Scribe Estate
• Carbone
• Matthiasson “Linda Vista Vineyard”
• Flowers “Camp Meeting Ridge”
• Massican “Hyde Vineyard”
• Hanzell

If you know of a good, lighter chardonnay, please let me know.

Who said this?  “Too much of anything is bad, but too much Champagne is just right.”(answer below)

Have you ever tried a sparkling wine from the UK?  You will be pleasantly surprised.  Read this from Winespeed:  Nyetimber makes so many superb English sparklers that choosing just one to write about isn’t easy. Still, for the sheer thrill of its flavors, the Blanc de Blancs is astounding. The first sip is as pure, starched, and chalky as it gets. Minerals dart around in the wine like a thousand points of light. There are waves of crème brûleé, brioche, crème fraiche, sea salt and French vanilla custard. And in the center of it all, that addictive aroma of just kneaded bread dough ready to go into the oven.  Founded in 1086, the Nyetimber estate was mentioned in the Domesday Book, William the Conqueror’s great land survey of England and Wales. (12% abv)

Confession of a solo champagne taster, Terry Theise:  Among all wines, Champagne is the one that cries out to be shared. It is carbonated fellowship. It felt perverse to taste it alone – at first. Eventually I adjusted to it until, slowly, the strangeness became ordinary and even curiously fascinating. Solo tasting is a way to delve, a kind of spelunking through wine. I loved tasting with colleagues at the domains we visited, but that’s the yang of tasting, a nourishing energy from which much insight may arise. Tasting alone is the yin of tasting, trying to hear the gift of the silence. I’ve learned that I want both experiences, to help balance myself as a taster and a human, yet the solo experience is the one I almost never had. But what to do about the very much absent other who admonishes me when I taste Champagne alone? “You forgot to pour for me!”

Where did the name Champagne originate?  The name Champagne was first used in the sixth century and is derived from campagnia remensis, a Latin term for the countryside around the city of Reims. There is only one appellation in Champagne—Champagne—but the region encompasses five main vineyard areas: Montagne de Reims,  Côte des Blancs, Vallée de la Marne, Côte de Sézanne, and Côte des Bar (also known as Aube)

When did superspy James Bond first drink Bollinger champagne?  Superspy James Bond (a model of impeccable taste) drinks Bollinger Champagne for the first time in the 1973 film Live and Let Die. When Bond (Roger Moore) is in his hotel room at the San Moniquan, he orders the Bollinger slightly chilled. Interestingly, in his life on the page, James Bond first encounters Bollinger Champagne in the book Diamonds Are Forever, when he receives a bottle of the Champagne in his cabin on the Queen Elizabeth.

What country makes the most sparkling wine?  Every year since 2016, Italy has made more spumante (“sparkling wine” in Italian) than any other country in the world according to the OIV (International Organization of Vine and Wine). Italy’s achievement has been driven in large part by the skyrocketing success of Prosecco which, at 660 million bottles a year, now makes up more than 10% of all Italian wine produced. Other major types of Italian sparkling wines include Lambrusco, Franciacorta, and Asti.

For those of you who are not already familiar, try the website, WTSO (Wine Till Sold Out) for bargains on wine.  I buy my Aimery sparkling and some Bordeauxs from them, and shipping is FREE!!!!

Answer:  Mark Twain

I am a true believer in Central Coast wines.  My only problem is that their price tags tend to emulate their big brothers up in Napa and Sonoma.  Nevertheless, let’s look a little deeper in the central coast.

Wine Folly says:  The Central Coast is a large encompassing American Viticultural Area (AVA) that extends from the south of San Francisco all the way to Santa Barbara, California. The region contains 40 AVAs including Paso Robles, Santa Cruz Mountains, Monterey, and Santa Barbara and each of these sub-regions specializes in different types and expressions of wine. While the Central Coast may not have the same namesake as Napa Valley, it does happen to produce some of California’s most intriguing, up-and-coming wines. To explore each region, their top-performing varieties, and what makes each area unique, we’ll take you on a virtual driving tour through Central Coast’s wine scene.

As a whole, the Central Coast is planted with 90,300 acres (36.500 hectares) of vineyards. Currently, the most widely planted variety is Chardonnay.  Pinot Noir and Syrah are also quite prevalent.

The majority of the vineyards can be found in the valleys that open up to the Pacific. The benefit of being along the coast is that the cold, moist air gets pulled in and creates a layer of morning cloud cover which reduces temperatures and sun exposure on the grapes. This is why cool climate varieties such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir excel in the coastal regions of the Central Coast AVA.

Specifically, I am focused on the central coast:  San Luis Obispo: Edna Valley and Arroyo Grande Valley are the 2 AVAs in SLO that produce outstanding, rich Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines.  Paso Robles: One of the most exciting regions for Syrah and other Rhône varieties on the West Coast. The area also produces a great deal of pocketbook-friendly, smoky, and satisfying Cabernet Sauvignon.

I will bet you did not know this:  

Paso Robles is a wine region for the wild-hearted. The town El Paso de Robles (which means Pass of the oak trees) was co-founded by Kentucky outlaws Frank and Jesse James’ uncle Drury around 1869. Today, Paso Robles is still considered by many as the wine industry’s wild west, characterized by that same rule breaking diversity and innovative spirit in which the town was founded.

“Paso Robles is the wild west of California wine.”

Factoid: Paso Robles is California’s fastest growing AVA. Since 2000, the number of bonded wineries has grown from 50 to over 200, driven by growth in ownership by small family-owned producers.

More Wine Folly:  

Paso Robles makes an amazing diversity of wines, but which ones should you be seeking out? The key styles of Paso Robles wine to pay attention to can be summed up into 5 categories:

• Zinfandel and blends
• Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux-style blends
• Rhône Blends including Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, as well as Viognier
• Cal-Italians including Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Barbera
• Innovative Blends – non-traditional wine blends

Basic Taste Profile: Opulent, sweet-fruited red wines with a plush mid-palate, high alcohol levels, and a suprisingly firm backbone of acidity that will make you sit up straight in your seat. Paso Robles wines are typically enjoyed in their youth, although the best ones do stand the test of time.More about Paso cabs:  The Paso style strives to Big and Bold, making more richly textured, opulent, ready-drinking Cabs and Bordeaux blends with flavors of anise, cola, peppercorns, finishing with textured minerality and bright acidity.  Contrary to popular belief, although the heritage of Paso Robles lies with Zinfandel, today over 55% of all vines planted are devoted to Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux Varieties (Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot.) Originally planted in 1974 by “the Godfather of Paso”, Gary Eberle, Cabernet Sauvignon quickly found its home in this warm climate region.

Whatever you believe, and whatever you drink, I strongly urge you to give the central coast wines an in-depth tasting.  Why not visit?  We are headed here today, both to get out of the Valley heat, and enjoy the food and wine on the coast.

I always try to keep my every day wine and sparkling budget under $20.  Since I enjoy my sparkling wines, this always “limits” my choices to a sparkling wine other than champagne.  But it does not mean that I must sacrifice taste and enjoyment when I drink other sparklings.  Plus, why open a bottle of $60 to $100 bottle of champagne when I can only drink about half of it each evening?

Most of you know I am partial to both sparkling wines, called cremants, from Loire, and our own California sparkling wines.  In most cases, the cremants are in the $9 to$14 range, and the California sparklings are in the $30 to $40 range.  If I spread the cost over two evenings, my investment is minimal. 

One big change has occurred in Italy, where Prosecco rose’ is now legal, as of January 1.  Prior to this, “Prosecco’s Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) status didn’t allow for rosés. Wineries found a work-around by labeling pink fizz as spumante, but no longer. New regulations allow for actual Prosecco rosé, as long as it’s made from Glera (the grape of Prosecco) plus 10% to 15% Pinot Noir (hence the color). The Prosecco consortium estimates that total production of Prosecco DOC rosé may climb to 30 million bottles per year; cue the cheering from rosé and Prosecco fans alike.”

While I still prefer cremants and California sparklings over Prosecco, there are some reasonably well priced ($12-16) bottles.  I tried one from Trader Joe’s, but was not impressed.  Perhaps you have tried one and can recommend it to me.

A good every day Napa Valley sparkling is the NV Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut Sonoma Valley at only $22.  For a brut rose’, try the NV Scharffenberger Brut Rose’ Excellence ($23).

If you want to wander off the beaten path, try one of these:

NV Steller’s Jay Sparkling Rose’ ($27) from the Okanagan Valley (BC)

Really offbeat:  2017 William Chris Vineyards Petillant Naturel Rose’ Texas ($25)

France’s Limoux region has been making sparkling wines as early as 1531.  The Aimery cremant de Limoux is a bargain at $14.  It has become my every day sparkler.

My special occasion California sparkling wine is a Domaine Carneros brut ($24) or brut rose’ ($33), the Laetitia Vineyards (Arroyo Grande) brut ($29) or brut rose’ ($35).

And my special occasion Champagne is Taittinger Brut La Francaise ($50), and the Taittinger Prestige Rose’ Brut ($65).  And when things get really crazy, the Comtes brut rose’ ($260), but usually in a nice restaurant.  I was in Amsterdam and shared a bottle with a local television celebrity and his wife.

But whatever you do, and whatever your budget, enjoy what you like.  I am only offering suggestions, or what works for me.  Taste, affordability, and bubbles are the three key ingredients to my bubbly obsession.