First some wine basics for the region:

1. DOC (or DOP): DOC stands for Denominação de Origem Controlada and means the wine comes from a strictly defined geographical area with recommended and permitted grapes and maximum vine yields (to control quality). Technically there are 31 DOCs in Portugal, although 3 of them overlap, making it seem more like 28.
2. Vinho Regional (or IGP): The entirety of Portugal is divided into 14 regional wine (“vinho regional”) areas that have less strict rules for controlling which types of grapes are used as well as maximum vine yields. While this implies that the wines will not be as high quality, many creative and pioneering producers in Portugal use the Vinho Regional designation to create excellent wines using grapes or blends not allowed in DOC.
3. Vinho (Wine): This is the most basic classification of Portuguese table wine. Chances are you won’t see this outside of Portugal.

Alentejo is among the wine regions most vulnerable to climate change, so while it still produces its famed wine, visiting it makes for a worthwhile experience. There are many grape varieties in the region as wine is among its most valuable products. Alentejo really loves its wines because they have a cork industry, too. The rich blend of Vinho do Alentejo makes it easy to understand why this region in Portugal is highly respected and why it should be protected.

Portugal’s Alentejo region boasts miles of uninterrupted beach. – Janina_PLD/Adobe Stock

When Arlindo Serrão wants time on the Portuguese coast, removed from the tourist crowds of the cities and more popular beach destinations in the country’s far south, he leaves Lisbon for a special stretch of coast in the Alentejo region.

“People are calling Alentejo ‘Europe’s best-kept secret,’ but I don’t know for how long it can remain like that,” said Serrão, founder of Portugal Dive.

Alentejo offers long stretches of uninterrupted beachfront and incredible wine and seafood without the hordes that descend on better-known beach destinations in the Algarve.

Here, just south of the Tróia Peninsula, the beach extends for nearly 28 miles and the outposts of Comporta and Melides are “the perfect places to stay and rest from everyday life,” Serrão says.

For an unspoiled stay, Sublime Comporta’s rooms, suites and villas are surrounded by pine and cork trees and towering wild dunes.

In addition to its spectacular beaches, the region is known for being Portugal’s largest wine producer as well as for having the most marked hiking trails in the country.

“For me, it’s a place of peace on a raw part of Portugal,” Serrão says.

The Douro Valley is considered the “oldest demarcated wine region,” as reported by Forbes. So impressive is its wine culture that the valley is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After visiting the museum, tourists should enjoy walking by the Douro River that passes through the wine region. The waterway probably helps in making Douro wines world-class, so visitors should pay a visit. The enchanting beauty of the valley is best enjoyed with a wine glass in hand and with loved ones.

Rather than explore all of the wines and regions of Portugal, I will focus on the Douro Valley, home of the most famous Portuguese wine, port, and more recently some enticing red wines.  In fact, my trip up to Porto from Lisob is designed to do just that.  Focus on ports and red wine.

Do not be alarmed if you know very little or nothing about Portuguese wine.  I was the same way back in 2001 on my first trip here.  My golf buddy and travel mate, Mr. Mike made sure I got a deep and informative introduction into Portuguese wines, particularly vintage ports.  We spent most afternoons, after 18 holes of golf, tracking down vintage ports.

The two names you may be familiar with are port (of course) and Vinho Verde. But Portugal has 14 wine regions, with strict laws and geographic boundaries, which generally translate to higher quality.  The word “quinta” on the label is what Portuguese call a wine estate.  The grape varieties are also listed on the label. A label with “garrafeira”  indicates that the winemaker has done some oak aging, a bit like “reserva” in Spain.

Vinho Verde is a white wine that is low in alcohol, with flavors of lime and peach.  They often have a little spritz, and pair perfectly with seafood.  Vinho Verde is a coastal region in the northwest, with their wine intended for early drinking, without oak aging.  Vinho Verde can be aged, becoming more like a Riesling after a few years in the cellar.

But Douro Valley is my focus, since their wines have been produced for centuries (two thousand years), and become world famous, in the case of port.  But in the last decade or so, dry red wines are making some progress.  Today, dry Couro wines can be red, white or rose’.  The reds are quite full bodied and lend well to oak aging, often using the same red grapes used for making port.  These include Toriga Nacional, Toriga Franca, Tinta Barroca, and Tinta Roriz (same as Tempranillo in Spain).  The better producers are Niepoort, Quinta do Crasto, or Quinta do Popa.  If a white burgundy is your wine, try the Redomo Branco by Niepoort.

Port is why I am here, so port tasting will be high on my list of activities.  Port is a fortified red wine that made Portugal famous.  Fortified wines are made by processing wine with a grape spirit, typically brandy.  The addition of the brandy adds a natural sweetness to the wine, making port the digestiv of choice after dinner.  The rich, bold flavors include hints of chocolate, berries, and cinnamon.  So how did this happen?

Back in the 17^th century, the Brits decided to boycott French wines because of increasing tensions between the two countries.  English merchants began searching for alternative wines in Portugal and found the Douro Valley to their liking.  But with the wine region so far away, merchants decided to transport the wines out of the coastal city Porto, which is how port wine got its name.  To keep the wine from spoiling on the long voyage, producers started fortifying their wine with brandy, resulting in the unique taste of Port today.

Port wine is made from hand-picked grapes from the Douro Valley.  The grapes are crushed in fermentation tanks to extract juice and pulp from their skins.  After crushing they are left to ferment until they reach optimum sugar and alcohol levels.  Once they reach that level, producers add brandy to fortify the wine, stopping fermentation and retaining some of the natural sugar taste of the grapes.  Then all port is aged in oak or steel containers for a minimum of two years. 

The three most common types of port are:

Ruby port, which is bright, bold red, fruity with wild berry and plum undertones, and aged two to six years in oak vats.

Tawny port, which are aged in oak casks longer than ruby port, creating a lighter color wine, usually amber or brown.  This allows the wine to develop more complex flavors with nutty and wood undertones.

White port is made with white port grapes, aged for a shorter time in large vats.  They are typically served chilled with dry and light flavors and used mostly as an aperitif.

Pairing ports is both fun and inventive.  Cheese and desserts are the obvious choice, but seafood works well, along with being an aperitif.

In short, ruby port wine typically pairs best with rich and decadent foods, tawny port wine is better with milder desserts, fruits, and tangy flavors, and white port is best served chilled with saltier foods.

More detailed pairings:

Ruby port wine: Dark chocolate, truffles, poached pears, cheddar cheese, dates, stinky blue cheese

Tawny port wine: Nut-based desserts, ice cream, apple tarts, dried cherries caramel, creme brulee, parmesan or manchego cheese

White port wine: Salted nuts, chips, foie gras, shellfish, olives, charcuterie

Best ports from Liquor and Wine:

Best overall:  Dow’s Vintage Port 2016

Best Under $30:  Graham Six Grapes Reserve Port

Best Tawny:  Cockburn’s 20 Year old Tawny Port

Runner Up:  Warre’s Optima 10 Year Tawny Port

I plan to hit several bodegas in Porto.  And I may try to send a few bottles home if the price is right.

Can you believe TAP Portugal Airlines is touting their wines as well?

Great idea for national airlines to tout their home-grown products.  Maybe I will learn something new about their wines.

Having been here once before, I can tell you that Portugal is a very underrated place to visit.  The weather is great, the food is both hearty and interesting, the wines are inventive, and the people are friendly.  Portugal is pricier than a super cheap getaway to the Southern United States, but compared to the rest of Europe, it’s very economical, which is one reason why so many Americans are retiring here. With the dollar about even to the euro, you can expect to pay around $75 for a mid-range hotel and $20 for a three-course meal with drinks. That’s quite a bargain for some of the world’s best cuisine.

One fact I did not know:  Portugal has the oldest (1139) borders in Europe.  Portugal is situated at the south-west point of Europe and also includes the Madeira and Azores archipelagos in the Atlantic Ocean.  Mainland Portugal occupies an area of 88,889 km2. It is 218 km wide and 561 km long. It has 832 km of Atlantic coast and a 1,215 km border with Spain.

Portuguese cuisine evolved from hearty peasant food drawn from the land and abundant seafood found in the country’s lengthy coast with the cows, pigs and goats raised on the limited grazing land of its interior. From these humble origins, spices and condiments brought back to the country during the exploration and colonization of South America, Africa, the East Indies and the Far East, contributed to the development of what become regarded as ‘typical’ Portuguese cuisine which inherently, also helped shape the cuisine in the regions under Portuguese influence, from Brazil and Cape Verde to Thailand and Japan. Today, traditional Portuguese cuisine is served alongside the latest trendy and fusion cuisine styles. Several establishments have been awarded Michelin stars.

Portugal is mainly characterized by a Mediterranean climate ( in the South, central interior, and the Douro river valley; in the North, Central west and Vicentine Coast), temperate maritime climate in the mainland north-western highlands and mountains, and in some high altitude zones of the Azorean islands; a semi-arid climate in certain parts of the Beja District far south and in Porto Santo Island, a warm desert climate in the Selvagens Islands and a humid subtropical climate in the western Azores, according to the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification. It is one of the warmest countries in Europe: The Algarve, separated from the Alentejo region by mountains reaching up to 900 meters (3,000 ft) in Alto da Fóia, has a climate similar to that of the southern coastal areas of Spain or Southwest Australia.

Portugal is located on the Mediterranean Basin, the third most diverse hotspot of flora in the world. Due to its geographical and climatic context – between the Atlantic and Mediterranean – Portugal has a high level of biodiversity on land and at sea. It is home to six terrestrial ecoregions: Azores temperate mixed forests, Cantabrian mixed forests, Madeira evergreen forests, Iberian sclerophyllous and semi-deciduous forests, Northwest Iberian montane forests, and Southwest Iberian Mediterranean sclerophyllous and mixed forests.

Native Portuguese are an Iberian ethnic group and they form 95% of the whole population, whose ancestry is very similar to Spaniards and have strong ties with fellow Atlantic Arc countries like Ireland, British Isles, France and Belgium due to maritime trade dated as far back as the Bronze Age. These maritime contacts and the prevalence of R1b haplogroup as the main genetical marker of these countries suggest a common ancestry and cultural proximity. Other maritime contacts with the Mediterranean especially with Greeks, Phoenicians, Romans and Moors added some phenotypes in southern Portugal and particularly southern Spain (the Tartessos culture), making Portugal and north-western Spain a bridge between north-western Europe and the Mediterranean but maintaining the Atlantic character.

Some famous people from Portugal:  Cristiano Ronaldo, Vasco da Gama, Ferdinand Magellan, Henry the Navigator, Jose Saramago, Salvador Sobral, Luis Figo, Eusebio, Fernando Pessoa, Daniela Rush, Paula Rego, Nelly Furtado, Mariza, Antonio Guterres (Secretary General of the U.N.), Rosa Mota, and Antonio Salazar.  And now my dear friend, Sian.

Livaria Bertrands holds the Guinness world record for the oldest bookstore still in operation, having been founded in 1732.

There are over 250 million Portuguese speakers around the world.  Only 5% of Portuguese speakers like in Portugal.

Portugal is home to the world’s largest cork forest.  Portugal is the largest cork producer in the world and produces 50% of the world’s cork supply.

Cabo do Roca is the westernmost point in all of Europe, located at the western end of the Sintra mountains on the Atlantic Ocean.

The most famous dessert in Portugal:  But it’s not just any old custard tart; this is the famous Pastéis de nata. These were created by many Catholic monks sometime before the 18th century.  At the monastery, they used egg whites for starch (laundry and all that), but what to do with the egg yolks? Bake them, of course! Thus, the tastiest custard tart in the world was born. You can enjoy it everywhere, from Brazil to Japan, but Portugal is the best place for it.

Tempura is Portuguese!  That most Japanese of delicately fried goodness originates in Portugal. On their adventures around the world, the Portuguese came across Japan in the 16th century.  Before Japan decided to close its doors to trade, Portugal offloaded several gastronomic goodies onto the island nation – tempura being just one of them. The custard tart just mentioned, castella cake, and even bread are loved by Japanese people today. This is definitely one of our favorite facts about Portugal (how couldn’t it be?).

Britain might have been the most publicized and famous slavery abolishment in 1833, but Portugal did it far sooner. In 1819, Portugal, which admittedly (like Britain) played a big part in the slave trade, then abolished it. It makes the British Empire look more and more like copycats compared to progressive Portugal.

Dating back to the 1820s, Fado sprung up in Lisbon’s bars, cafes, and restaurants and became an instant hit. Fado comes from the Latin fatum, which literally means “fate” but can also mean “death.”  As you might expect, the music is loud and mournful but ultimately zapped with unmatched power and energy all of its own. This brings us to… Believing in their fate, whether it’s good or bad, is part of Portuguese culture. That’s what Fado is all about. Another good example is the amazing word “saudade.” This is one of those allegedly “untranslatable” words that mean an intense and sorrowful longing or nostalgia over someone – or something – that you miss and can’t get back. Missingness, maybe?

All that water around Portugal means a lot of fishing grounds. There are a lot of coastlines for fishermen to use as their base and waters for the fisherman to access. This adds up to Portuguese people eating a lot of fish. No, Portugal is the third-highest consumer of fish on the planet. That’s after Iceland and Japan.

I am certain this is more than you ever wanted to know about Portugal.  But I assure you, this country should be on your water pail list of places to visit and experience.

Sidebar:  I was invited to Portugal, specifically the beach town about 20 minutes west of Lisboa, called Cascais.  But my friend’s home is not ready for occupancy due to a series of problems related to escrow.

Heading to the Central Coast is always a good break from the summer heat here in the Valley.  What are some options?

From 365 Traveler:  You can nearly smell the spirits emanating from the rolling hills while touring around Paso Robles wine country. An estimated 300 wineries and a host of tasting rooms dot the region, making it one of California’s top wine regions. Vineyards stretch as far as you can see, and cover 33,000 acres, with the ideal conditions for producing the award-winning cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel, rhône wines, and other grapes that it has become known for. Visiting the wineries here is one of the best things to do in Paso Robles.

Many local wineries welcome visitors to tour their vineyards to see behind-the-scenes of making their signature wine flavors, learn about the family’s wine-making history, and enjoy plenty of wine tastings to satisfy the wine-lover inside of you.

You can nearly smell the spirits emanating from the rolling hills while touring around Paso Robles wine country. An estimated 300 wineries and a host of tasting rooms dot the region, making it one of California’s top wine regions. Vineyards stretch as far as you can see, and cover 33,000 acres, with the ideal conditions for producing the award-winning cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel, rhône wines, and other grapes that it has become known for. Visiting the wineries here is one of the best things to do in Paso Robles.

Many local wineries welcome visitors to tour their vineyards to see behind-the-scenes of making their signature wine flavors, learn about the family’s wine-making history, and enjoy plenty of wine tastings to satisfy the wine-lover inside of you.

Founded in 1979, Eberle Winery is one of the first to establish Paso Robles as a go-to wine destination and offers tours to showcase why. Tours take you through underground caves lined with oak barrels for aging the wines to perfection, before tasting a sampling of its limited annual production of chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, and cotes-du-robles.

Next, head over to Tobin James Cellars, whose award-winning cabernet sauvignons, merlot, and chardonnay flavors have made it one of the most popular wineries in the region. You’ll learn about its history dating back to 1987, before stepping inside the saloon-inspired Grand Antique Bar tasting room to see what the buzz is all about.

Later, journey to the hilltops of the Calcareous Vineyard, where nature plays a significant role in making its wine stand out. You’ll learn about the unique calcareous soil, where its name is derived, and how it enriches the vineyards with calcium to create memorable flavors of the signature cabernet sauvignon and other wines. Live music creates the perfect atmosphere for their wine tastings, set against the backdrop overlooking Salinas Valley.

Wine tasting works up quite an appetite, best satisfied by a meal at Thomas Hill Organics, a local farm-to-table restaurant. It maintains the organic traditions of the Central Coast with homegrown creative dishes that bring you back to life after a day of drinking wine.

I am a big supporter of Central Coast wines.  But, in many cases (no pun intended), they are pricing themselves out of the market.  Like I have always said, $20 is my limit, except for special occasions.

One of my favorite places to visit is Laetitia Vineyard and Winery, just south of Arroyo Grande.  Why?  For one, they have a pretty good brut rose’.  Second, and perhaps most importantly, they have a great picnic area for us to have our lunch and bring Lexi along.  We usually buy some sushi and bring it with us.  After a short tasting, we have our lunch on their beautiful grounds.

Another place we have enjoyed, among many others, is Daou Winery in the foothills above Paso.  Their wines seem to be a cut above (also pricier).  I enjoy their Cab with a ribeye at our favorite restaurant, Ember, in Arroyo Grande.  But I see that it is no longer on the “by the glass” menu.

Once in a while, a beer hits the spot.  Visit Firestone Walker Brewing Company to experience signature brews from the first craft brewery, established in 1996. There are more than two dozen beer options at The Pour House and The Backyard. In addition, Silva Brewing Co. is a transplant from San Diego, that’s also joining the local craft brewery trend.

We often stop at Firestone Walker, since they have a patio for lunch. Lexi loves it there.  And their lunch menu is quite good, along with a tall glass of 805, my new favorite beer.

And, the weather will be much cooler on the coast!!!!