Wine

Ten Things in Napa Valley

Posted by golfkat on September 18, 2022
Posted in: Action, Cultures, Entertainment, Food, Shopping, Travel, Wine. Leave a comment

From Visit Napa Valley website:

Yes, Napa Valley is one of the most luxurious luxury destinations in the world. That doesn’t mean everything here costs a pretty penny. The truth is that Napa County boasts a host of destinations and activities that are totally free. Here are our top 10.

  1. Shop the market
    The Napa Farmers’ Market  is the county’s largest and regularly boasts more than 100 vendors, artisans, and purveyors. On Saturdays, it’s also one of the very few markets in the region that operates year-round. The market is held in the City of Napa parking lot at 1100 West Street, two blocks from the Oxbow. Our advice: Go before 9 a.m. to score popular treats such as English Muffins from Model Bakery.
     
  2. Explore ‘Cowville’
    One of the most scenic roads in Yountville is Yount Mill Road, a ribbon of concrete that winds out of town to the north and reconnects with Highway 29 near Mustards Grill. The best way to experience the road: On foot. Along the stroll you can feed hay to longhorns that graze fields to the east, munch on crab apples, and soak up the scenery. The best part: You’re never more than 10 minutes from downtown.
     
  3. Wander Calistoga’s Labyrinth
    Wellness practitioners and Zen masters say labyrinths are great places to meditate and dive deep into thought. The Indian Springs Labyrinth on Lincoln Avenue in downtown Calistoga definitely is worth a visit. The circular pathway is adjacent to an art gallery and is a short walk from the spa pools at Indian Springs. It’s also near The Depot, the newest project from Jean-Charles Boisset.
     
  4. Summit Mount St. Helena
    You haven’t really arrived in Wine Country until you’ve hiked to the summit of Mount St. Helena and enjoyed a bottle of rose before the fog burns off below you. The mountain is in Robert Louis Stevenson State Park and the summit is accessed by the Stevenson trail that winds from the top of Highway 29. Allow about three hours for the grueling ascent; the scramble down goes much faster.
     
  5. Disc golf at Skyline
    Frisbee golf is serious business at Skyline Wilderness Park  in southern Napa. This expansive park has a 400-acre, 18-hole course with DIScatcher baskets; the Marvin Paul-designed course is technical with steep grassy hillsides. The entire course can be played in less than two hours—even less if you only throw nine. Follow the course by using the tee signs on each hole.
     
  6. Drink up Napa art
    Sculptures on the free and public Napa Art Walk change every year, and for the year starting August 2021 the exhibit comprises 10 sculptures from seven artists representing four western states. Online maps help visitors navigate the art walk. For a fulfilling detour, check out the Rail Arts District, where local artists have painted giant murals on walls of buildings that line the Wine Train, train tracks.
     
  7. Pay culinary homage
    More than 4,000 artifacts of specialty cookware, bread baking and culinary tools, appliances, and tableware comprise the permanent exhibit about Chuck Williams at CIA Copia . Williams was a popular local chef who went on to launch the housewares company Williams Sonoma. Today the collection of odd-shaped tureens and a duck de-boning machine are among the most bizarre of the items on exhibit.
     
  8. Look up
    Depending on the time of year, hot-air balloons are a common sight in the skies above the Napa Valley. The good news: Ogling at these giant floating orbs is totally free. Most balloons leave right around sunrise to get aloft before the wind picks up. This means it’s probably best to hit up a local independent coffee shop and find a flat and open space for your watch party.
     
  9. Observing the Oxbow
    Napa’s Oxbow Public Market  essentially put public markets on the map; though others in the United States came before it, no others have quite perfected the luxury angle. While food and trinkets at the Oxbow can be expensive, wandering around to investigate the goodies and wares doesn’t cost a cent. To experience peak rush hour, plan to visit around lunchtime on a weekend.
     
  10. Critter-watching in delta
    Birding is the name of the game at Wetlands Edge Park in American Canyon, the southernmost city in the entire county. The park comprises roughly five miles of trails in all, including dirt paths that parallel the Napa River where it meets San Pablo Bay. In mornings, usually right around sunrise, the waters are teeming with herons and other birds. Be sure to bring a camera.

Napa Valley will aways be my favorite.  I started visiting in the 60s, when we were invited by Allied Growers to visit some of the wineries they owned, such as BV, and Inglenook.  Back then, tastings, even dinners, were FREE!!  My how things have changed.

I do enjoy other wine regions, such as the Central Coast, New Zealand, Mendoza, Bordeaux, Champagne, Willamette Valley, Sonoma, Loire, Chile, Central Washington, and even Madera-Fresno.  But one area I did not enjoy was Temecula, quite overrated.

Several news articles have emphasized how expensive Napa Valley has become.  Wine tasting fees hover around $100, often more for upscale places.  Add in hotel, meals, wine purchases and gas, resulting in a very expensive weekend.

Note:  I have only done #9, I have my work cut out for me!!!

Cooling Off at the Coast

Posted by golfkat on September 9, 2022
Posted in: Cultures, Entertainment, Food, Golf, Shopping, Sports, Travel, Wine. Leave a comment

We are tired of the hot weather!  This weekend will range around 110 or higher in the great Valley.  I think we need to drive over to the Monterey Peninsula and cool off!!  I am sure Lexi would welcome her walks in cooler weather as well.

But first, on the way, I think we need to stop at the factory outlets in Gilroy for a little retail therapy.  Then after lunch, perhaps In N Out Burger, we will finish the drive to Monterey.  Hopefully, we can visit a few dear friends during our visit.  Also, I want to take Lexi to the beach, maybe drive 17 Mile Drive, and have some seafood pasta at Abalonetti on the Monterey wharf.

For a real change of pace, I think I will hit one of the wine tasting rooms in Monterey.  I tried Caraccioli (tasting room) in downtown Carmel. In fact, it was so good, I went two days in a row!!!  Their brut rose’ is very good,  I bought one, though a bit pricey.  More affordable is their Rose’ of Pinot Noir at only $30 a bottle. 

The highlight for me is taking Lexi for a walk on Carmel Beach, running along the shore, while gazing up at the Pebble Beach Golf Links.  She loves the beach and does not mind the sand in her little paws.  She also enjoys the beaches elsewhere, though the sea lions were barking aplenty at the Monterey Wharf.

One of our dear friends down here is Big John, over at the Inn at Spanish Bay.  We have know him for over 25 years, when he was still a waiter at Abalonetti.  He has been the head bellman at Spanish Bay for over three decades now.  He told an interesting story about us at the President of Pebble Beach’s retirement dinner.  Upon leaving our little cocktail party during a stay at the Lodge at Pebble some years ago, he saw the light was on in the President’s office.  He would see the “boss man” arrive at 6am every morning as well.  He figured if the President was willing to work that hard, so would he and his staff!!

A few other places down here catch my attention.  Thinker Toys is a great toy and hobby shop in downtown Carmel.  We also like Hedi’s Shoes on Ocean Avenue.  We buy our Hoka 1’s there.  And our Turkish lamp store is also on Ocean Avenue.  But best of all, I found some Turkish Delight at a store on Cannery Row.  the owner says it is 100% imported from Istanbul, since he cannot buy the right ingredient here.

The weather has been great, in the 60s and 70s mostly, while back home hit record heat in the 110+ range.  I highly recommend this form of therapy, both for physical and mental health.  Sheri even bought a jacket!!

And maybe best of all, we found a pretty good Chinese restaurant in Monterey, with excellent chow fun, and Peking spare ribs!!!

Coastal Cruising

Posted by golfkat on July 16, 2022
Posted in: Cultures, Food, Travel, Wine. Leave a comment

Heading to the Central Coast is always a good break from the summer heat here in the Valley.  What are some options?

From 365 Traveler:  You can nearly smell the spirits emanating from the rolling hills while touring around Paso Robles wine country. An estimated 300 wineries and a host of tasting rooms dot the region, making it one of California’s top wine regions. Vineyards stretch as far as you can see, and cover 33,000 acres, with the ideal conditions for producing the award-winning cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel, rhône wines, and other grapes that it has become known for. Visiting the wineries here is one of the best things to do in Paso Robles.

Many local wineries welcome visitors to tour their vineyards to see behind-the-scenes of making their signature wine flavors, learn about the family’s wine-making history, and enjoy plenty of wine tastings to satisfy the wine-lover inside of you.

You can nearly smell the spirits emanating from the rolling hills while touring around Paso Robles wine country. An estimated 300 wineries and a host of tasting rooms dot the region, making it one of California’s top wine regions. Vineyards stretch as far as you can see, and cover 33,000 acres, with the ideal conditions for producing the award-winning cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel, rhône wines, and other grapes that it has become known for. Visiting the wineries here is one of the best things to do in Paso Robles.

Many local wineries welcome visitors to tour their vineyards to see behind-the-scenes of making their signature wine flavors, learn about the family’s wine-making history, and enjoy plenty of wine tastings to satisfy the wine-lover inside of you.

Founded in 1979, Eberle Winery is one of the first to establish Paso Robles as a go-to wine destination and offers tours to showcase why. Tours take you through underground caves lined with oak barrels for aging the wines to perfection, before tasting a sampling of its limited annual production of chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, and cotes-du-robles.

Next, head over to Tobin James Cellars, whose award-winning cabernet sauvignons, merlot, and chardonnay flavors have made it one of the most popular wineries in the region. You’ll learn about its history dating back to 1987, before stepping inside the saloon-inspired Grand Antique Bar tasting room to see what the buzz is all about.

Later, journey to the hilltops of the Calcareous Vineyard, where nature plays a significant role in making its wine stand out. You’ll learn about the unique calcareous soil, where its name is derived, and how it enriches the vineyards with calcium to create memorable flavors of the signature cabernet sauvignon and other wines. Live music creates the perfect atmosphere for their wine tastings, set against the backdrop overlooking Salinas Valley.

Wine tasting works up quite an appetite, best satisfied by a meal at Thomas Hill Organics, a local farm-to-table restaurant. It maintains the organic traditions of the Central Coast with homegrown creative dishes that bring you back to life after a day of drinking wine.

I am a big supporter of Central Coast wines.  But, in many cases (no pun intended), they are pricing themselves out of the market.  Like I have always said, $20 is my limit, except for special occasions.

One of my favorite places to visit is Laetitia Vineyard and Winery, just south of Arroyo Grande.  Why?  For one, they have a pretty good brut rose’.  Second, and perhaps most importantly, they have a great picnic area for us to have our lunch and bring Lexi along.  We usually buy some sushi and bring it with us.  After a short tasting, we have our lunch on their beautiful grounds.

Another place we have enjoyed, among many others, is Daou Winery in the foothills above Paso.  Their wines seem to be a cut above (also pricier).  I enjoy their Cab with a ribeye at our favorite restaurant, Ember, in Arroyo Grande.  But I see that it is no longer on the “by the glass” menu.

Once in a while, a beer hits the spot.  Visit Firestone Walker Brewing Company to experience signature brews from the first craft brewery, established in 1996. There are more than two dozen beer options at The Pour House and The Backyard. In addition, Silva Brewing Co. is a transplant from San Diego, that’s also joining the local craft brewery trend.

We often stop at Firestone Walker, since they have a patio for lunch. Lexi loves it there.  And their lunch menu is quite good, along with a tall glass of 805, my new favorite beer.

And, the weather will be much cooler on the coast!!!!

Beat the Heat in Pismo

Posted by golfkat on July 15, 2022
Posted in: Action, Cultures, Entertainment, Food, Sports, Travel, Wine. Leave a comment

From 2019:

In order to beat the Valley heat, we are once again driving over to Pismo Beach on the central coast of California.  So, not only do we love the cooler weather, our little Labradoodle, Lexi loves it too.  And we get to eat at some of our favorite places, like Ember in Arroyo Grande, since they have an outdoor patio dining area where Lexi is welcome!!!

The mostly boring drive of about three hours is tolerable. But summer lodging rates on the beach are somewhat inflated, though not as bad as the Monterey Peninsula or further south in Santa Barbara.  I guess we should not complain!  And most all of them charge extra for having even a small dog in the room.

But once we get here, we enjoy ourselves immensely.  While the cooler weather draws us, we end up doing the same things: dining, walking, taking Lexi to the beach, maybe some wine tasting, and light shopping.

Something funny about Pismo was chronicled in the old TV show, Dragnet.  Joe Friday’s partner at the time, Harry Morgan (aka Colonel Sherman Potter in MASH), plays Bill Gannon.  He takes a disability retirement in Pismo Beach.  After eating clam chowder for about 8 months, Bill’s health returns, and his teeth stop falling out!  He is reinstated to the LAPD, and tells Joe Friday the reason for his return to health, “The clams, Joe, the clams.”

One of my favorite stops these days is the Firestone Walker Brewery in Paso Robles, just off Highway 101.  Again, they have a shaded outdoor patio for us to eat, enjoy some 805 (my favorite beer, a blond ale, now), and allow Lexi to join us while we eat.  So, not only are the craft beers (usually a dozen or more) excellent, the food is also equally good and interesting.

If you get over to the coast, I highly recommend dining at Ember.  The food and ambience is unmatched, not only for this area, but stands up to most places in the Bay Area as well.  Their website touts, “Ember is all about authentic hand-crafted food cooked by a wood fire.  We aim to create the ideal environment to experience Central Coast food and wine.”  We have enjoyed many memorable meals there.  Just remember, they open at 4pm, do not take reservations (they do now), and are closed Monday and Tuesday.  Wine Enthusiast Magazine awarded them one of the top 100 wine restaurants in America.

Maybe there are some other things to do without food or wine?  I doubt it.

One thing we will do for sure is take Lexi to the beach.  Last year, she had a sore paw, and was told by her vet to stay away from the sand.

Dry Your Glasses

Posted by golfkat on June 6, 2022
Posted in: Cultures, Travel, Wine. Leave a comment

Winespeed asks the question of whether you should dry your champagne glasses with a lint-free cloth.  Here is her answer:

As a matter of fact, in order to maximize you Champagne’s effervescence, leaving a tiny bit of lint in your glass is paramount. As we all know, popping a Champagne cork reduces the tremendous pressure maintained in the thick bottle and releases the carbon dioxide dissolved in the wine. The gas molecules come suddenly out of solution and must collect together in order to form a bubble. Gerard Liger-Belair, a physicist (or “fizzisist”?) at the University of Reims and the world’s leading authority on bubbles, filmed Champagne using high-speed video and a microscope, and discovered that bubbles can form at a rate of 400 per second. Most bubbles form on imperfections or microscopic particles inside the glass, such as pieces of lint that floated into the glass or were left behind by a towel. Molecules of CO2 collect on the particle until together they become buoyant enough to detach and float to the surface as a single bubble. Another bubble of collected CO2 molecules then forms in its place, resulting in the telltale fine lines racing up through the wine. So for optimal effervescence, we recommend wiping Champagne and sparkling wine glasses with a clean, dry (but not lint-free) cloth before using them.

Interesting!

Totally on a different subject, one of my favorite chefs and restaurant owner, Cindy Pawlcyn of Mustard’s Grill in Yountville:

Chef Cindy Pawlcyn, a pioneer in the Napa Valley restaurant scene, lost 3800 cookbooks along with her home in the recent Glass Fire. Collected since she was a little girl, the international cache included rare first editions signed by Elizabeth David, Julia Child, and James Beard, as well as the only copy of her grandmother’s culinary notebook. Pawlcyn started cooking professionally in high school, and later turned Mustards Grill into one of the Napa Valley’s first destination-dining spots.

Do you think the English will celebrate Queen E’s Jubilee?

Ten percent of British are expected to drink a glass of English sparkling wine this weekend, June 2 to 5, to celebrate the Queen of England’s Platinum Jubilee (in honor of Her Majesty’s 70 years on the throne). The magazine Drinks Business reports that Londoners are expected to down 860 glasses of English sparkling every minute throughout the celebration. Less vinously chauvinistic, the Scots are predicted to celebrate with (considerably less expensive) Prosecco.  I noticed big inventories of Proseccos while I was in Paris last month.

And what about the lowly corkscrew?  The first written reference to a corkscrew appears in a 1681 English museum catalog that lists it as a “Steel Worme used for the drawing of Corks out of Bottles.” Most of those bottles probably contained beer or cider. Both sparklers required tight fitting corks driven deep into the neck of the bottle in order to keep the dissolved gas inside. While the exact date of the corkscrew’s invention is not known, it’s generally thought to have occurred between 1630 and 1675 in England. The tool took its inspiration from worms that were used for muzzle-loaded guns, muskets, and pistols.

From Tasting Table:  

According to Decanter magazine, Champagne bottles can be stored upright for a month or two as long as the bottles are cool and undisturbed. Most wines that are intended for further aging and maturation in the bottle require they be positioned on their side to keep the corks moist. Grandes Marques & Maisons de Champagne indicates that every producer varies in their storage philosophy but suggests Champagne bottles have the advantage of containing an internal pressure due to the bubbles, which helps in preventing the corks from drying out.

Still, for longer storage and maturation in the bottle, store Champagne bottles on their sides just like the producers do in their underground cellars (via Rose Hill Cellars). Also, find a wine rack for your wine cellar that will accommodate the voluptuous shape of the Champagne bottle because most standard racks are made for a Bordeaux-style bottle that has straight, parallel sides.

For longer storage of Champagne, store your wines in a wine cellar or the coldest closet in your house. The optimal temperature range for Champagne is between 44 degrees and 50 degrees Fahrenheit with controlled humidity, per Decanter. Grandes Marques & Maisons de Champagne suggests humidity a bit lower than Wine Spectator, in the 60 to 70 F range. Few houses maintain this level of humidity, though, so look for a low-maintenance humidifier to augment the environment around your Champagne.

I try not to store any sparkling wines for champagne for more than 2 or 3 years.  After all, there are reasons to celebrate!!

Roaming to Romerberg

Posted by golfkat on May 30, 2022
Posted in: Action, Cultures, Entertainment, Food, Travel, Wine. Leave a comment

One of the more interesting places in Frankfurt is an “old town” area called Romer or Romerberg.  I may a short visit on my last visit here, in between my side trip to Mallorca, and my flight home last October.  With more time, I am in search of some delicious sauerbraten.  My last visit here did not result in sauerbraten that could be called superior to what we get back home.  And believe me, I have had sauerbraten all over Germany and Austria.  The sauerbraten at the old Chef Burger in Pleasant Hill is far superior, as of today.

But first, a bit about Romer.  The iconic square is home to great medieval buildings and historic markets.  I would call it a mix between the old and the new.  Romer has been the city hall since the 15th century.  And though it was damaged extensively during WW2, it has been restored (1986), and just feels like it is old and historic once again.  Romerberg means Roman Mountain, though nobody is quite sure how it got its name.  It was the site of the Nazi book burning in 1933.

The facades are three step gables, as seen in the photo below.  When I was last here, a wedding reception was held in the square, with anyone and everyone willing to participate.

The famous Frankfurt Christmas Market is held here. Some of the fairs held here centuries ago, such as the Frankfurt Book Fair, are still being held today, although they moved a long time ago from the square to more modern facilities. It now represents a classic example of the traditional half-timbered architectural style of times gone by. Every single house bears its own name. In the 17th century, the corner house, named “Grosser Engel”, became the home of Frankfurt’s first bank.

Römerberg is the town hall square lying in front of (and subsequently named after) the Römer complex, seat of the Frankfurt city administration since the 15th century. As the site of numerous imperial coronations, trade fairs and Christmas markets, this square marks the historic heart of the medieval Altstadt (Old Town) and is a popular tourist destination. In the 20th century, Römerberg was the scene of many major events, both joyful and not so. On May 10, 1933, the infamous book burning organized by the Nazi German Student Union took place here. In between 1932 and 1939, the internationally renowned Römerberg Festival had been held here every summer, with nearly 350 open-air theater shows performed during the period.

St. Paul’s Church, locally known as Paulskirche,is a historical church dating back to 1789. It was consecrated as a protestant church and has served its fair share of purposes: as a home to Germany’s first National Assembly, a meeting place for people to see American President John F. Kennedy deliver a speech in 1963, and as a venue for awards ceremonies and other special events.

From Culture Trip:  The Römerberg Square is the gift that just keeps on giving, as here, in the very heart of Frankfurt’s Old Town, you will also discover the Fountain of Justice too. Built in 1543, the statue of goddess Justitia holding the scales of justice without her usual blindfold is facing the square. Legends have been built around the fountain, and the most famous one says that when an emperor was crowned, the people of Frankfurt could enjoy themselves here. The fountain didn’t provide the people of this city just with water, but it also spilled wine, and the people of Frankfurt could smell the aroma of a feast in the workings too!

Can you believe there is a Mexican restaurant here?

Unable to find my favorite German dish, sauerbraten, I opted for some snacks and a big tall cold beer, followed by an Aperol spritz. My waiter, a rather hard working middle easterner hardly had time for a word. But when I asked him how many languages he spoke, he responded the eight!!!

The Germans, on this Thursday evening, were celebrating like it was the weekend. Why can’t we do some of that here, stroll, enjoy some people watching, have a few drinks and snacks? I think we are missing out on something vital to our long term health and sanity.

Wines of Croatia

Posted by golfkat on May 21, 2022
Posted in: Cultures, Food, Travel, Wine. Leave a comment

It seems every state in the US, and every country that I visit has a wine region.  Croatia is no exception, with a big plus.  In fact, it is a world class connection, in the person of Miljenko “Mike” Grgic of Napa Valley fame.  He left Croatia back in 1954, and became perhaps the most famous winemaker in the world when his 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay won a blind tasting in Paris, aka the Judgment of Paris.  He later established Grgic Hills Cellar in (Rutherford) Napa Valley, and is a most respected winemaker.

The recent war, 1990-95 for Croatian independence wiped out most of the country’s viticulture.  But with great weather and geography for wine, Croatia has returned with over 100 indigenous grapes.  With numerous microclimates, Vitis vinifera L (the cultivated grapevine) has found the exact combination of climate, geography and soil.

After independence, Mike Grgic came back to establish Grgic Vina in a tiny town on the Peljesac Peninsula in southern Dalmatia, home of the Dingac terroir.  And it turned a profit within two years, where typically 5 to 10 years are required.  His winery produces high end boutique wines:  a fruity and flavorful white from the indigenous Posip, and a hearty red from the Plavac Mali, the highest quality Croatian varietal.

Croatia has two main wine regions, the arid (continental) part and the costal region, with similar latitude to Bordeaux, Provence, Tuscany, and Oregon. The continental region produces 90% of the whites, while the coastal produces almost 70% of the reds.  There are twelve subregions.  My focus will be in Dingac on the Peljesac peninsula, perhaps due to lack of a car.  Or perhaps it has the best wine?

It appears much of Croatian wine production is the ‘vin de table’ style.  Smaller farms, restaurants and households make their own wine, though often young and fruity.  Remember the cab driver in Seinfeld, who said, “too fruity” with the cute sing songy accent of a Punjab man?  But these wines go well with grilled meats, fish and salad.  Lately, Croatian wines have introduced the Protected Geographical Origin status for wine (much like the AOC in France).

So, what are some of the Croatian wine terms I might need?

wine    vino

white    bijelo

sparkling   pjenusavo

red   crveno

dessert   desertno

sweet   slatko

dry   suha

While Croatia has only about 160,000 acres of vines under cultivation, the coastal areas and islands produce mostly red wines.  Inland, almost 90% of wine production is white.  But each island has unique soil and temperature variations.  These create subtle differences in acidity, color, tannins, and balance.  By and large, most producers are still working on a small scale.

Speaking of, Croatia has a rather large number of grape varieties, including many ancient ones.  The most common is the gravesina on the inland area, while malvasia is prevalent on the coastal area.  Some lesser varieties include:  posip, debit, franken, zlahtina, marastina, vugava, grk, and plavac.  Sounds like gobbledygook.  But lately, more international varieties have become increasingly popular, like chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Gewürztraminer

The Dingac grape is produced here in the Peljesac, and is probably the best wine in the country.  Needless to say, the better vineyards merit a higher price.  Everyone says it is full bodied, fruity, and ages well.

The Postup region is similar to Dingac, though the wines are a bit drier.  Up the road in Istria, the Teran reds are more intense, almost black in color.  Their sweet wine is the Momjan, a honey colored wine that pairs well with desserts.  The various islands produce some notable wines as well.  If I do not get around to them on this trip, I will be back in May for my cycling trip along the coast.

Along the coast, I expect to eat more seafood than red meat.  But I intend to try as many local wines as possible.

.

Greek Wines

Posted by golfkat on May 10, 2022
Posted in: Action, Cultures, Entertainment, Food, Travel, Wine. Leave a comment

Can you believe this?  Over 6,000  islands that make up Greece’s landmass. The large number of islands is one of the factors that has contributed to grape variety diversity in the country. The number of ancient indigenous Greek varieties alone is estimated to be 80 to 200. Every year, hitherto unheard-of, nearly extinct grape varieties growing in some isolated parts of the country are discovered, propagated, and saved. (Winespeed)

From my first visit to Greece in May, 2021:

So, after spending nearly three weeks in Greece, I tried many wines.  And I visited several wineries in Santorini, known for their famous Assyrtiko wines.  BTW, it is pronounced “us-EAT-teeko” and has a definite “volcanic” taste, in other words, a quite pronounced minerality, for lack of a better term.

Karen at Winespeed is spot on about this wine:  Assyrtiko, the white wine that brought world attention to the stunningly beautiful volcanic island of Santorini, is made in several styles today. But my favorite has always been the original style—fresh, pure, bone-dry, and made without the merest trace of oak. Santo Wine’s Assyrtiko—from 60- to 80-year-old vines —is exactly that, a wine that captures the lemons-and-salt-air crispness that Assyrtiko is known for. Sparks of minerals and acidity light up the wine, making it extra delicious with seafood. (14% abv)

My waiter at my hotel, the Volcano View Hotel, was also my wine tour guide.  Kostas knew what I would like, as we visited three different wineries.  We visited one of the oldest wineries in Santorini, a very artsy (and old style) winery, and a modern winery (with old vines).  I visited the largest winery on my own, a day later, Santo Wines, which I would label as completely optional. (But great views)

The volcanic soil on Santorini helps to create a unique flavor to the wine.  It took several tries for me to enjoy the wine, as it is quite different than anything I have tasted before.  But I learned quite a bit about the grapes, and the wine.

First, as you can see in my photos, the wines are grown and pruned very low to the ground.  Why?  The circular pattern protects the grapes from the strong winds, and it helps retain the moisture from the humidity.  Very little irrigation is available, since Santorini has no well water, only desalination plants.

I must admit that all of the wines I tried at the three wineries were quite different.  The high mineral content from the volcanic soils creates a taste that is both unique and rather startling.  My first glass at a restaurant required some ice.  I learned from the restaurant staff that more expensive Assyrtikos are better tasting.  And it goes well with grilled fish, and fresh lobster!

Meanwhile back in Athens, my wine tasting turned rather fortuitously to their house wines.  Both red and white house wines are quite good, very inexpensive, and tasty.  But the moonshine, called mastika caught my attention.  I brought a bottle back home for a future party.But one custom I brought home is the Greek toast.  And everyone joins in, guests and staff!  Just give a hearty “Yamas” when you raise your glass and drink.

I will be back, assuming the war does not escalate, in May, on my way to my cycling trip in Croatia.  I look forward to seeing my three Greek brothers (George, Stavros, and Vasily), who adopted me.  I can’t wait!!!

Ever Read the Digital Nomad?

Posted by golfkat on April 29, 2022
Posted in: Action, Cultures, Food, Travel, Wine. Leave a comment

It turns out two of the three places the Digital Nomad is recommending are places I have visited.  Here they are:

Medellín, Colombia

Colombia has been squarely on my RETA beat for nearly a decade. And livable, internationalized cities like Medellín are drawing in mobile, creative, and productive remote workers untethered by the Zoom Boom.

Today, the old cartel and bad reputation that dogged this beautiful city in the days of Pablo Escobar have faded into history.  But the street where he was gunned down is a bit of a tourist attraction.

They have been replaced with a hip, “must visit” city that has much to appeal to the Zoom Boom crowd.

Modern Medellin is one of the most modern and sophisticated cities on my beat. Young digital nomads huddle in trendy watering holes plotting the next Facebook or hang out at the open-air workout areas that can be found here.

The locals are warm, welcoming, friendly, and honest. They feel genuinely happy that foreigners are beginning to visit them.  The Metro is quite efficient, clean and safe.

Mr. Mike, Barry the V, and I visited Colombia a few years back on a trip to Ecuador.  Indeed, Medellin (pronounced Meda-gene) is a great place to visit.  Public transport is great, and food (go to Pargue Llerus) is rapidly improving.  And it is very affordable.

The Algarve, Portugal

If you’re a regular reader, you’ll know that the Algarve is where you’ll find the most profitable real estate deals in all of Portugal.

The Algarve is indeed something special. It offers perfect weather, amazing beaches, and world-class golf. It’s easy to get there, the cost of living is low, the food is great, and it’s safe…peaceful. All factors that attract Zoom Boom remote workers.

The Algarve is the kind of place that does well in good times and bad. It attracts a huge mix of markets. It’s an internationalized destination that draws Northern Europeans, North Americans, and even folks from as far away as Asia…

In particular, I’m laser-focused on the historic town of Lagos. It’s a place where the best-in-class property is in incredibly hot demand. By getting in early on the right condos, in the right locations, we can do very well. Demand is surging, supply is scarce, and there are constraints that put serious limitations on availability.

Last year, despite the lockdown, I hear some property owners in Lagos were still pulling in gross rental yields of 7%.

Portugal is a very underrated place to visit.  Though we went for golf, the culture and people are refreshing and interesting.  Along the way, we went on an area wide search for vintage ports.  The golf was enjoyable, and somewhat challenging.  But the food and the people were absolutely the big draw.  We spent many afternoons chasing down vintage ports.

I wonder why more people I know do not go to South America.  The Amazon rainforest is still one of the best places I have visited.  The language is not a barrier, the roads are good, and the food and wine are quite affordable and delicious.  For those who say it is too much like Mexico, I guarantee you it is not!  Parts of South America feel like Europe and the U.S. since they are clean, attractive, and FUN!

Beautiful Bubbly Basics

Posted by golfkat on April 16, 2022
Posted in: Cultures, Food, Wine. Leave a comment

From my friends at Perrier-Jouet, here are some helpful hints for serving champagne and sparkling wine:

Each sip of sparkling champagne is a moment to be savored. Coming together with friends and loved ones over a glass of glimmering bubbles is a joyful celebration, and with a few expert tips you can explore the art of hosting to make your next gathering one to remember. What should you keep in mind?

How to serve champagne

  1. The perfect temperature: a non-vintage Perrier-Jouët champagne is ideally served at 8º C, while a vintage cuvée is best served at 10º C to reveal its full complexity.
  2. Never freeze your bottle to refresh it. This can be dangerous and may unbalance the aromas.
  3. When opening your bottle, the goal is not to surprise, but to delight guests with a light sound, almost a sigh as the bottle is opened. This is achieved by gently turning the bottle, while firmly holding the cork.
  4. The bottom of the bottle should be held when pouring, ensuring the label is always facing your guests.

Personally, I like mine on the chillier side.  But opening the bottle by turning the bottle rather than the cork is very helpful.  The label facing the guests is a bit pretentious in my humble opinion.

Here are their suggested pairings, of which I am at a total loss.

Brut with chicken breast, grapefruit, sole, white peach, turnips, and young leeks

Brut rose’ with bluefin tuna, lychee, lobster, fig, lentils and red tomatoes

Blanc de blanc with striped bass, white plum, crab, passion fruit, mushrooms and peas

Here are my pairings:

Anything bubbly goes with almost anything that I like to eat!!

Champagne pairing tend to focus on salty foods, like caviar.  Since I am not a big fan of caviar, what are some alternatives.  Some real gourmets suggest, of all things, potato chips!!  Other closely related items would be smoked salmon and potato pancakes.  I guess that is why I like cheese so much with my sparklings as well as reds and whites.  Champagne works well with steak because of the acid.  Champagne is richer and nuttier than red wine, and is able to cut through the fat.  In fact, steak tartare is said to pair perfectly with rose’ champagne.  Ceviche is another interesting pairing with champagne, but not really spicy shrimp.

For dessert, the wine, whether sparkling or still, needs to be sweeter than the dessert.  This is perfect for a demi-sec with panna cotta or fresh berries.  Think about Wimbledon, strawberries and cream, with a glass of champagne!