Dry Your Glasses

Posted by golfkat on June 6, 2022
Posted in: Cultures, Travel, Wine. Leave a comment

Winespeed asks the question of whether you should dry your champagne glasses with a lint-free cloth.  Here is her answer:

As a matter of fact, in order to maximize you Champagne’s effervescence, leaving a tiny bit of lint in your glass is paramount. As we all know, popping a Champagne cork reduces the tremendous pressure maintained in the thick bottle and releases the carbon dioxide dissolved in the wine. The gas molecules come suddenly out of solution and must collect together in order to form a bubble. Gerard Liger-Belair, a physicist (or “fizzisist”?) at the University of Reims and the world’s leading authority on bubbles, filmed Champagne using high-speed video and a microscope, and discovered that bubbles can form at a rate of 400 per second. Most bubbles form on imperfections or microscopic particles inside the glass, such as pieces of lint that floated into the glass or were left behind by a towel. Molecules of CO2 collect on the particle until together they become buoyant enough to detach and float to the surface as a single bubble. Another bubble of collected CO2 molecules then forms in its place, resulting in the telltale fine lines racing up through the wine. So for optimal effervescence, we recommend wiping Champagne and sparkling wine glasses with a clean, dry (but not lint-free) cloth before using them.

Interesting!

Totally on a different subject, one of my favorite chefs and restaurant owner, Cindy Pawlcyn of Mustard’s Grill in Yountville:

Chef Cindy Pawlcyn, a pioneer in the Napa Valley restaurant scene, lost 3800 cookbooks along with her home in the recent Glass Fire. Collected since she was a little girl, the international cache included rare first editions signed by Elizabeth David, Julia Child, and James Beard, as well as the only copy of her grandmother’s culinary notebook. Pawlcyn started cooking professionally in high school, and later turned Mustards Grill into one of the Napa Valley’s first destination-dining spots.

Do you think the English will celebrate Queen E’s Jubilee?

Ten percent of British are expected to drink a glass of English sparkling wine this weekend, June 2 to 5, to celebrate the Queen of England’s Platinum Jubilee (in honor of Her Majesty’s 70 years on the throne). The magazine Drinks Business reports that Londoners are expected to down 860 glasses of English sparkling every minute throughout the celebration. Less vinously chauvinistic, the Scots are predicted to celebrate with (considerably less expensive) Prosecco.  I noticed big inventories of Proseccos while I was in Paris last month.

And what about the lowly corkscrew?  The first written reference to a corkscrew appears in a 1681 English museum catalog that lists it as a “Steel Worme used for the drawing of Corks out of Bottles.” Most of those bottles probably contained beer or cider. Both sparklers required tight fitting corks driven deep into the neck of the bottle in order to keep the dissolved gas inside. While the exact date of the corkscrew’s invention is not known, it’s generally thought to have occurred between 1630 and 1675 in England. The tool took its inspiration from worms that were used for muzzle-loaded guns, muskets, and pistols.

From Tasting Table:  

According to Decanter magazine, Champagne bottles can be stored upright for a month or two as long as the bottles are cool and undisturbed. Most wines that are intended for further aging and maturation in the bottle require they be positioned on their side to keep the corks moist. Grandes Marques & Maisons de Champagne indicates that every producer varies in their storage philosophy but suggests Champagne bottles have the advantage of containing an internal pressure due to the bubbles, which helps in preventing the corks from drying out.

Still, for longer storage and maturation in the bottle, store Champagne bottles on their sides just like the producers do in their underground cellars (via Rose Hill Cellars). Also, find a wine rack for your wine cellar that will accommodate the voluptuous shape of the Champagne bottle because most standard racks are made for a Bordeaux-style bottle that has straight, parallel sides.

For longer storage of Champagne, store your wines in a wine cellar or the coldest closet in your house. The optimal temperature range for Champagne is between 44 degrees and 50 degrees Fahrenheit with controlled humidity, per Decanter. Grandes Marques & Maisons de Champagne suggests humidity a bit lower than Wine Spectator, in the 60 to 70 F range. Few houses maintain this level of humidity, though, so look for a low-maintenance humidifier to augment the environment around your Champagne.

I try not to store any sparkling wines for champagne for more than 2 or 3 years.  After all, there are reasons to celebrate!!

Quick Math (Currency Conversion)

Posted by golfkat on June 5, 2022
Posted in: Cultures, Entertainment, Travel. Leave a comment

How To Do Exchange Calculations Quickly When Traveling

You probably don’t need that exchange calculator unless your math skills are exceptionally bad. To relativize prices, use these three methods.

For currencies greater than 50% higher or lower value than the dollar, it helps to find a rounded reference point. For example, the Mexican peso ranges between 18 and 22 to the dollar. By rounding to 20, quick exchange math can be done by moving the decimal and dividing by two; 800 pesos becomes 40 dollars.

For currencies up to 50% higher than the dollar, think of the difference as a gratuity. If the euro is trading at 1.05 to the US dollar, simply add a 5% “tip” to the price. For currencies up to 50% lower than the dollar, use the discount method. If the Canadian dollar is trading at 75 cents on the dollar, discount amounts by 25%.

The third method is for currencies with an exchange that’s not quickly “math-able”, like the Thai Baht, which at press time exchanges for about three cents in the US. Simply check the exchange amount for $10 USD, and adjust as needed. $10 USD is 343 Baht today, so round up to around 350 and use that as a reference. The important thing to remember is that exchanges vary by whose doing the exchanging, which card is being used, and other factors, so keep an eye on relative exchanges, but don’t fuss over the mental math down to the last decimal – focus instead on enjoying your travels.

This article is from Fodor’s.  Here are some of my ideas from my last trip to Europe.

For the Euro, at $1.05 per USD, I just considered it about equal and did not bother too much with the math, unless the purchase was extremely large (rare for me).

In Croatia, we received about 7 kuna per USD.  So, either divide the kuna by 7, or multiply by 7 if the price is listed in USD.  Division by 7 can be tedious at times.  So, I use the rule of 10.  70 kuna is roughly $10, 700 kuna is $100 USD.

It was a bit more difficult in Serbia.  I received 110 Serbian dinar for one USD.  So again, round to 100 to simplify the math.  Of course, you may choose to calculate the dinar as one cent American.  The worst part is that I forgot to exchange my leftover dinar back into dollars at the Belgrade airport.  And nobody, I repeat, nobody wants to exchange them to USD or Euro anywhere else!!!!

But Asia probably wins the award for difficulty in exchanging or calculating prices.

One USD = 23,192 Vietnamese dong

One USD = 4066 Cambodian riel

One USD = 124 Nepalese rupee

One USD = 13,978 Laotian kip (even rounding to 14,000 makes this problematic)

One USD = 4.4 Malaysian ringgit

One USD = 34 Thai baht

So, bottom line, use the calculator on your cell phone!  Or carry a cheat sheet, which I do when traveling in SE Asia.

Overrated Travel Destinations

Posted by golfkat on June 4, 2022
Posted in: Cultures, Entertainment, National Parks, Travel. Leave a comment

Fodors says:  The results for Fodor’s Summer Travel Survey are in! This summer, 87% of Americans are planning to travel and 70% of respondents are looking at domestic destinations. For the last two years, the U.S. National Parks have been the top attractions in the country and they’re likely to be filled with happy campers in the coming months. But there are some spots that aren’t winning the hearts of our readers.  

We asked what readers felt is the most overrated attraction in the world. Answers varied wildly. Two people specifically highlighted the FRIENDS Experience New York, a recreation of sets from Friends, and three people really dislike Wall Drug, a kitschy drugstore in Wall, South Dakota. A handful of readers highlighted the Grand Canyon, with one writing, it’s just “a giant hole in the ground.” Another reader found the Sistine Chapel to be “a little dingy.”  Meanwhile, some readers don’t like entire cities: 2% listed Los Angeles (“terrible,” wrote one dissatisfied visitor), another 2% wrote New York City (“too many people, expensive, too touristy”), and 4% find the entire city of Las Vegas to be overrated (“loud” and “kitschy”).

The 5 Most Overrated Tourist Attractions

Disney isn’t the only popular tourist site taking heat from our readers. Though it’s the least popular, it’s in good company. According to our poll, these are the most overrated attractions in the world:

1. Disney Theme Parks   I don’t agree, since any family with young children would give their entire summer job earnings to go to the Magic Kingdom!!

2. The Leaning Tower of Pisa   Yes, a total waste of time!

3. The Eiffel Tower   This is a maybe, since it is in Paris, and if you are there, you might as well go!

4. Times Square   At least once in your life, walk up and down, attend a show, take some photos.

5. The Louvre   I can’t believe this is on the list!

Gerry’s worst five or ten:

  1.  Machu Picchu
  2. Seattle Space Needle
  3. St. Louis Gateway Arch
  4. Anything in Texas or Florida
  5. Navy Pier in Chicago
  6. Wall Drug in South Dakota
  7. Hollywood Walk of Fame
  8. Mob Museum, Las Vegas
  9. Spy Museum, Washington, DC
  10. Legoland, San Diego

I am sure you have your own “secret” list.

Great News for Rail Roadies

Posted by golfkat on June 4, 2022
Posted in: Action, Cultures, Travel. Leave a comment

Lonely Planet announces:

Two of Europe’s biggest rail operators are merging to create a combined high-speed network that serves the UK, France, the Netherlands, Germany, and Belgium.  Cross-Channel high-speed rail service, Eurostar, is joining forces with the French-Belgian rail operator Thalys to expand services across Europe. For travelers, this merger gives them a greater choice of simplified journeys on a single ticket. 

Thalys already serves France, the Netherlands, Germany, and Belgium, but it doesn’t currently have operations in the UK.   

Eurostar, meanwhile, has a pretty extensive network that operates out of St Pancras station in London; delivering passengers across the Channel Tunnel to French cities like Calais, Paris, Lille and Lyon and, in winter, to the Alps. It also offers a high-speed service to Brussels, Rotterdam and, most recently, Amsterdam.  I took the “Chunnel” to Paris for a day trip while I was at Wimbledon for two weeks.  I spent the day at the Louvre, and returned back to London that evening.  It was an easy delightful day.

For the first time, UK passengers will be able to directly connect with Germany by high-speed rail, with trains potentially running from London to Cologne (a journey that would take five-and-a-half hours), Düsseldorf, Essen, Aachen and Dortmund — destinations that are currently operated by Thalys.

Trains could also travel to Bordeaux from London and more Belgian cities including Antwerp and Liège. The Alps service could also be extended for winter holidaymakers. 

I really enjoy rail travel in Europe.  My first trip to Europe was a student Eurail pass, enabling me to start in Amsterdam, and end up in Rome.  Along the way, I visited Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, France, Austria, and Italy.  Just last week, I took the high-speed Deutsche Bahn Railway from Paris Gare d’lest to Frankfurt Main Haupt Bahnhof.  I think my next trip to Europe will involve heavy use of a Eurail pass.

An added bonus​ is that trains are rarely canceled or late.  The little city airline hoppers in Europe are always delayed or canceled.

50 Objects (Published)

Posted by golfkat on June 4, 2022
Posted in: Cultures, National Parks, Travel. Leave a comment

One thinks of a pedigree as a sanctioned stamp of good breeding. Thoroughbred racehorses. Edwardian landed gentry. But comic books? These aren’t just any comics but specimens from the Golden Age of  American comics, 1938-1956, including some purchased in a U.S. concentration camp. A comic book pedigree is the rare designation applied to a collection of vintage material gathered by a single collector at the time of publishing. There are currently 61 pedigrees widely recognized in the comic book world. The Bette Okajima Pedigree is one of them.

This pedigree is something of a legend. One theory has it that the collector was a 10-year-old girl at the Manzanar concentration camp in the California high desert. Another speculates that the Okajima signature on the covers was actually by the hand of Bette’s brother. Would a girl collect war comics? Would any Japanese American, regardless of gender, avidly consume images that included viciously caricatured depictions of Asians?

The World War II incarceration of Japanese Americans must have been tremendously dislocating. Your country of birth is at war, but has rejected you, declared you a martial threat and imprisoned you. American pop culture is in your social DNA. One of the few lifelines you have to this culture as a young person in a concentration camp is the steady stream of comic books available in the camp store. The Okajima Pedigree grew out of this fractured living situation.

The 50 Objects project director, Nancy Ukai, with the help of comic book expert Jeff Tom, has researched and written about the Okajima Pedigree. This story, intended to be published on our website next week, (see link to our site in our bio) will help bring legend into the realm of legacy. Stay tuned to this account for more Okajima posts to come.

Instagram design and caption by David Izu. Research by Nancy Ukai.

Many thanks to 50 Objects, Nancy Ukai, and the NPS.  I am most pleased to be a small part of this amazing story.

Roaming to Romerberg

Posted by golfkat on May 30, 2022
Posted in: Action, Cultures, Entertainment, Food, Travel, Wine. Leave a comment

One of the more interesting places in Frankfurt is an “old town” area called Romer or Romerberg.  I may a short visit on my last visit here, in between my side trip to Mallorca, and my flight home last October.  With more time, I am in search of some delicious sauerbraten.  My last visit here did not result in sauerbraten that could be called superior to what we get back home.  And believe me, I have had sauerbraten all over Germany and Austria.  The sauerbraten at the old Chef Burger in Pleasant Hill is far superior, as of today.

But first, a bit about Romer.  The iconic square is home to great medieval buildings and historic markets.  I would call it a mix between the old and the new.  Romer has been the city hall since the 15th century.  And though it was damaged extensively during WW2, it has been restored (1986), and just feels like it is old and historic once again.  Romerberg means Roman Mountain, though nobody is quite sure how it got its name.  It was the site of the Nazi book burning in 1933.

The facades are three step gables, as seen in the photo below.  When I was last here, a wedding reception was held in the square, with anyone and everyone willing to participate.

The famous Frankfurt Christmas Market is held here. Some of the fairs held here centuries ago, such as the Frankfurt Book Fair, are still being held today, although they moved a long time ago from the square to more modern facilities. It now represents a classic example of the traditional half-timbered architectural style of times gone by. Every single house bears its own name. In the 17th century, the corner house, named “Grosser Engel”, became the home of Frankfurt’s first bank.

Römerberg is the town hall square lying in front of (and subsequently named after) the Römer complex, seat of the Frankfurt city administration since the 15th century. As the site of numerous imperial coronations, trade fairs and Christmas markets, this square marks the historic heart of the medieval Altstadt (Old Town) and is a popular tourist destination. In the 20th century, Römerberg was the scene of many major events, both joyful and not so. On May 10, 1933, the infamous book burning organized by the Nazi German Student Union took place here. In between 1932 and 1939, the internationally renowned Römerberg Festival had been held here every summer, with nearly 350 open-air theater shows performed during the period.

St. Paul’s Church, locally known as Paulskirche,is a historical church dating back to 1789. It was consecrated as a protestant church and has served its fair share of purposes: as a home to Germany’s first National Assembly, a meeting place for people to see American President John F. Kennedy deliver a speech in 1963, and as a venue for awards ceremonies and other special events.

From Culture Trip:  The Römerberg Square is the gift that just keeps on giving, as here, in the very heart of Frankfurt’s Old Town, you will also discover the Fountain of Justice too. Built in 1543, the statue of goddess Justitia holding the scales of justice without her usual blindfold is facing the square. Legends have been built around the fountain, and the most famous one says that when an emperor was crowned, the people of Frankfurt could enjoy themselves here. The fountain didn’t provide the people of this city just with water, but it also spilled wine, and the people of Frankfurt could smell the aroma of a feast in the workings too!

Can you believe there is a Mexican restaurant here?

Unable to find my favorite German dish, sauerbraten, I opted for some snacks and a big tall cold beer, followed by an Aperol spritz. My waiter, a rather hard working middle easterner hardly had time for a word. But when I asked him how many languages he spoke, he responded the eight!!!

The Germans, on this Thursday evening, were celebrating like it was the weekend. Why can’t we do some of that here, stroll, enjoy some people watching, have a few drinks and snacks? I think we are missing out on something vital to our long term health and sanity.

Clay Court Conundrum

Posted by golfkat on May 30, 2022
Posted in: Action, Cultures, Entertainment, Sports, Travel. Leave a comment

I posted some photos on FB.  I had Centre Court tickets, as well as freedom to roam the grounds, much like Wimbledon and the US Open.

Most tennis fans know that the French Open in Paris is played on clay courts.  In fact, it is the only remaining Grand Slam event played on clay.  Wimbledon in London is played on grass, while the Australian and US Open are played on hard courts.  And it is my least favorite of the Grand Slam tennis events.  I have been to both the US Open in Flushing Meadows, NY as well as Wimbledon, which I consider one of the three or four best sporting events in the world.

Why not the French Open?  Among many reasons, it is held in Paris, not one of my favorite cities.  I do not care for the long rallies on clay courts.  And I have never been a big fan of playing on clay courts (Mexico, well as here in the US).  But the one, and perhaps biggest reason I want to attend is the raucous behavior of the fans.  In particular, the fans from various countries who come to Paris to cheer for their favorite countryman or woman.  Their unbridled enthusiasm is the very essence of sports!

The French Open, often called Roland Garros, is held at Stade Roland Garros, named for the famous French aviator, Roland Garros.  As the only Grand Slam played on clay, the tournament favors the best ground strokes, rather than big serves, or volleys.  Clay courts slow the ball down and produce a high bounce than grass or hard courts.  For that reason, notable tennis greats like Pete Sampras, John McEnroe, Jimmy Connors, Venus Williams, and Boris Becker, among many.  But some all-around players have won both, such as Roger Federer, Novak Djokovic, Andre Agassi,  Rafa Nadal, Bjorn Borg, and Rod Laver.

While I may never make it over to Melbourne for the Australian Open, I think completing three of the Grand Slam events is enough of an accomplishment.  I just happen to be “down the road”, so to speak in Croatia, Serbia, and Greece.

It was fairly easy to reach Roland Garros by Metro, one transfer, and a 10 minute walk.  The grounds are very historic and beautiful.  The biggest downside are the smokers, and people who stop in a walkway where we are trying to move from match to match, the WC, or food and drink.

I rooted for several Americans, all of whom won yesterday.  I was sad not to see Naomi Osaka, since she lost to American Anisimova.  The best player I saw was the big Greek, Stefanos Tsitsipas, on centre court, the famous Philippe Chartrier Stade.

Food and drink leaves much to be desired, and does not compare to the other majors.  The best I could find was a burger and fries.  I never found beer or champagne stands.  But retail has taken over, with many petit boutiques, and a huge building just for retail, including shoes, rackets, stringing, and every article of clothing with a French Open logo.

But, I am glad I went.  Today is one of my favs, the Musee d’Orsay, and some cafe’ hoping.  Tonight, it is steak frites and champagne!!!!

In Search of the Grand Slam

Posted by golfkat on May 30, 2022
Posted in: Action, Cultures, Entertainment, Sports, Travel. Leave a comment

Perhaps I fooled you?  You may think I am talking about the Grand Slam of Golf or a Bridge tournament.  Yes, I have been to several U.S. Opens, as well as the Masters.  But I have not been to the British Open (though I played at Carnoustie  just a week after van de Velde imploded) and have played many courses used by the PGA tournament (Kohler, Pinehurst, Harding).

I am referring to tennis this time.  I have attended Wimbledon (7 days of tennis), and the U.S. Open at Flushing.  I am heading out to Stade Roland Garros in Paris for my third leg of the Slam.  And you know that Paris is one of my least favorite places in the world.  Yet, I trudge onward and upward.

The French Open began in 1891 and was originally called the French Championships.  The tournament was (in the first 34 years) open only to French players, and players who were a member of a French club.  The first tournament was won by a Brit, Mr. H. Briggs.

Today, the French Open is a two-week tournament, held at Stade Roland Garros in Paris.  Beginning in late May, it is the second leg of the Grand Slam tournaments.  It is the only Grand Slam tournament held on a clay surface.  Until 1975, it was the only Grand Slam tournament not played on grass.  

Seven rounds are needed to win the tournament, with men playing the best of five sets, while the women play the best of three sets.  As such, it is considered the most demanding of the Grand Slam tournaments since the ball stays in play longer.  Clay courts tend to slow the ball down and produce a higher bounce.  Hence, it favors players with solid ground strokes, and all-around court play, rather than the hard serve and volley types.

I have actually played on a clay court several times, both back home in the Bay Area, as well as in Mexico.  And I have played on grass courts at Wailea Tennis Club on Maui, but I have not made it onto the grass courts at Wimbledon…..yet!  And I doubt I will attend the Aussie Open in January, since it takes place in the middle of the summer heat.

All the greats have played here, but not all have won here. Noted top ranked players who have not won here include  Jimmy Connors, John McEnroe, Pete Sampras, John Newcombe, Martina Hingis, Venus Williams, and Boris Becker.  Only seven players have won the French, as well as a grass court major:  Rod Laver, Roger Federer, Andre Agassi, Rafa Nadal, Jan Kodes, Bjorn Borg, and Novak Djokovic.

An American male has not won since 1999, when Agassi won.  The women’s singles was last won by an American, Serena Williams in 2015.  The Bryan brothers won the men’s doubles for the US in 2013.  And back in 2010, the Williams sisters won the women’s doubles.

But I really don’t care who wins, though I enjoy seeing some young Americans move up the tennis hierarchy.  And I will always root for Naomi Osaka from Japan.  I am here to experience the craziness and weirdness of the French Open.  It seems the most vocal of the four majors, and the fans are both loud, and partisan.

I am most interested to see how much this tournament differs from both Wimbledon and the US Open.  They say each Slam event has a different feel.  Wimbledon has the tradition, and the British attitude.  The US Open is a typical New York style event, bold, brash, but knowledgeable.  The French Open, at least on television, appears to be a raucous event, very provincial and loud!

Sadly, I was unable to see the great Naomi Osaka from Japan play, as she lost in the 1st round to young American, Amanda Anisimova. But I did get to see many others, including, Coco, Tsitsipas, Zverev, Shapavalov, Switek, many young American players, and some fast mens doubles.

But I am deeply disappointed in the food here, as Wimbledon has far surpassed the French with food and drink at the Slam. But the French put on a first class event, with great safety and efficiency.

Back to Frankfurt Again

Posted by golfkat on May 28, 2022
Posted in: Action, Cultures, Entertainment, Food, Travel. Leave a comment

I am taking the train back to Frankfurt from Paris.  I need a change from the cattle car flights, enjoy some scenery, and begin to transition back to where I am most comfortable, home!!!

This trip, like my last several to Europe, started and ends in Frankfurt.  I just seems easier and a bit cheaper to fly into a hub, then take a local carrier to my ultimate destination.  I headed to Athens from here on the same day.  Likewise, my return to the US will be from Frankfurt.  I have grown to like this rather gritty, and diversely populated city.  But I have yet to find any sauerbraten in all of Germany that compares to my favorite at the Chef Burger in my former hometown of Pleasant Hill.

This was written about 5 years ago:

How many of you have changed planes in Frankfurt over the years?  I have changed planes here at least half a dozen times, on the way to or from:  Russia, Spain, Portugal, South Africa, to name a few.  Frankfurt Main Airport is one of the busiest international airports in the world, and of course, a hub for the state airline, Lufthansa.  The airport is the biggest cargo airport in Europe.  Over 342 trains daily arrive and depart for other parts of Germany, as well as Europe.  But little do I know about this great German city.

I recall from Uncle Murl’s world history class as a sophomore in high school, only a few pertinent facts about Germany.  Names pass by, like Charlemagne, the Holy Roman Empire, storming of the Bastille, the Napoleonic Wars, WW 1 and 2, and the old Common Market.  In fact, it was Charlemagne, the Kings of the Franks, who gave the city its name, after winning a battle against the Saxons.  He called it “Ford of the Franks” or Frankfurt.

I first spent a night here back in the 70s, when the U.S. Army or Air Force had a big presence here.  I even had dinner at an air or army base, pretending we were GI’s with long hair.   I also stayed in Wiesbaden for many days, and spent a day in Kaiserslautern as well.   Frankfurt sells themselves as the largest financial center on the continent.  It is home to the European Central Bank, Deutsche Bundesbank, and the Frankfurt Stock Exchange.  Over 4 million tourists a year visit this city.

And only one person in three do not hold a German passport.  Fully 51% of the population has an immigrant background.  Why does this work so well here?  Yet, it is only the fifth largest city in Germany, with about 2.3 million people, behind Berlin, Hamburg, Cologne, and Munich, my personal favorite.  Catholics (23%) make up the largest segment of religion, followed by Protestants (19%), with Muslims (12%) third.  Over 180 nationalities live here peacefully.

The city is located on both sides of the Main River.  My train from ???? will arrive at Frankfurt Central Station (Hauptbahnhoff), which opened back in 1888.  Not only the people here are called Frankfurters, the sausages also answer to that name!  The Frankfurter Buchmesse is the largest trade show for books in the world.  Big publishing deals are closed here, Barry the V!!!!

The famous writer, Johann Wolfgang Goethe was born here, with his birthplace now a museum.  It is possible to see the puppet he played with as a child.  Frankfurt was home to the inventor of the printing press, Johannes Gutenberg. You can spot a memorial dedicated to him and the early funders of the printing press in the city centre, Rossmarkt.  

This is I did not realize:  “This one’s for all you story lovers. Flashback to childhood! Remember reading or listening to the likes of Cinderella, Rapunzel, Snow White, Sleeping Beauty and more? Well, the creators of all these stories- the Grimm Brothers lived in Hanau, which is merely 25 kms away from Frankfurt! They later moved on to study at University of Marburg, which is about 100 kms away.”

Frankfurt has the largest inner-city forest in Germany, taking up around 80 sq. km. (a third of its territory), and the world-famous 20-hectare Palm Garden, which hosts plants from every climate zone on the planet.

Besides Goethe and Gutenberg, Frankfurt also boasts the following famous Frankfurters:  Helmut Kohl, Oskar Schindler, Ludwig Erhard, Alois Alzheimer, Anne Frank, and Martin Lawrence. 

I may be here only for a day, to catch my plane back to the US, or I may decide to spend a couple days.  Or I might return to Munich, home of the  Oktoberfest, and look up some old, old friends.

Updated in May

Just one night actually.  But enough time to shop and eat a bit before returning back home for the Memorial Day weekend.

Frankfurt Central Station (Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof), which opened in 1888, was built as the central train station for Frankfurt to replace three smaller train stations in the city centre and to boost the needed capacity for travellers. It was constructed as a terminus station and was the largest train station in Europe by floor area until 1915 when Leipzig Central Station was opened. Its three main halls were constructed in a neorenaissance-style, while the later enlargement with two outer halls in 1924 was constructed in neoclassic-style.  My hotel is less than a block from the Hauptbahnhof, which by the way, has some interesting places to eat and drink.

Another possible place to visit:  Kleinmarkthalle (since 1871)

Open daily except on Sundays, some 63 merchants in 156 market stalls sell all kinds of fresh foods, produce and flowers. Aside from the many regional specialities available, such as Frankfurt’s famous “Green Sauce”, visitors will also find a superb assortment of international delicacies, imported from the four corners of the Earth. Those feeling a bit peckish are urged to try some of the delicious specialities on offer right away, freshly prepared on site.  You know I love the open markets.  The AFAR editor has a great philosophy:  My basic belief is if you see a line, you should get in it. And that place had a huge line. It’s called Frau Schreiber; the sausage there is fantastic. 

I may pay a visit to the European Central Bank, as it looks like an interesting place.  Last visit, I took a wine tour up to Ruseheim, which was rather disappointing.  We did very little wine tasting, and spent too much time on a cruise of the Rhine River.  But the “Jack the Ripper Fright Tour” sounds interesting.  I also have not ben to Heidelberg in decades.

One of the more interesting places here is Romer, which I will tell you about in a separate email.

One of my favorite morning spots here is a bakery in the Hauptbahnhof.  The manager greets every customer with a hearty “Morgen!” and is just unbelievable as he waits on two or three people at the same time!!

Meanwhile, I am back in Frankfurt, from Paris via Duetsche Bahn, a 4 hour trip, most pleasant compared to flying.  It reminds me quite fondly of my days traversing Europe with a student Eurail pass.  Might that be fun again?  Yes.

Would you believe the train stopped in Kaiserslautern. I visited over 50 years ago, found an American GI with a burger joint. He married a nice German girl after WW2, and stayed around. But, he really missed his American football!!!

But since this is the very end of my trip, I may be too tired to do much more than search for my sauerbraten and some cold beer!

See you back home.  It has been a long three weeks.  Take me home, country roads, to the place, I belong!!!!

Sweet 16!

Posted by golfkat on May 25, 2022
Posted in: Action, Cultures. Leave a comment

While hardly an expert on a city that I have a rather checkered past, staying out in a neighborhood is great!!!  Very few tourists, mostly locals and working folks.

No, we are not celebrating a 16th birthday.  Maybe some multiple of 16.  I am referring to the 16th Arrondissement (of twenty) of Paris.  There are twenty in Paris, for those of you unfamiliar.  The 16th includes the Arch de Triomphe, and several well-known museums.  But as you are aware, I am not here for the museums.  I have only one reason for being here, the famous French Open.

The 16th is rather a high rent area or one of high society’s favorite places, comparable to Chelsea and Kensington in London, or Charlottenburg in Berlin.  It has the third highest income following the 3rd, and Neuilly-Sur-Seine, both adjacent.  And besides Roland Garros, it also boasts Parc des Princes (pfootbol), and Bois de Boulogne, the second largest public park in Paris.  Nevertheless, it is thought to be one of the richest parts of Paris, and an area strong for the French right.  Proust and Balzac both lived here.

The 1965 James Bond film, Thunderball, was filmed here.  Also, Last Tango in Paris with Marlon Brando.

Also found here:  The Louis Vuitton Foundation, NYU’s Paris campus, International School of Paris, Paris Aquarium, Musee du Vin, Foundation Le Corbusier, Musee Baccarat, and Palais de Tokyo.

Parisians love to shop, including luxury food here, as well as enjoy the streets and parks.  The 16th also provides the best view of the Eiffel Tower.  The area is often described as “quietly charming” which I enjoy.

Only the French would use the term Arrondissement to name their city.

The 16th voted for President Macron in a landslide in the runoff.  Likewise, for Sarkozy, Chirac, and d’Estaing.  Are you impressed by how I know these names?  Easier than Clinton, Bush, Obama, ****, and Biden!

The Musee du Vin is here and includes wine tasting at the end of the visit.  My kind of museum!!!

The Palais de Tokyo is here and boasts no permanent exhibits.  The other half of the building house the Musee d’Art Moderne. And the best part, it is free!!

The Guimet Museum, aka Musee National des Artes Asiatiques is also here, with 20,000 works covering seven millennia.  

This museum is actually a direct replica of the Musée Guimet de Lyon, which was so successful that Emile Guimet transferred the collections in 1889. Watch out for the striking life-sized replica of the Cambodian temple of Angkor Wat.

The Monet Museum is also here.  On display, are more than a hundred of his works, donated by his son, Michel.

In 1985 there was a dramatic art theft from Musée Marmottan featuring five masked and armed robbers. One of the paintings stolen was Monet’s uber-famous Impression: Sunrise, the work that gave the name to the entire Impressionist movement. A daring police operation that involved French thugs and Japanese heroin traffickers resulted in a round-up of the thieves and the return of all the art.

The best markets in the 16th:

  • RUE DE L’ANNONCIATION
    Pedestrian market street off Rue de Passy near La Muette
    Most stores open daily except Sunday
  • PASSY COVERED MARKET
    Place de Passy
    Daily 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM.; Sunday 8:00 AM to 1:00 PM
  • AMIRAL BRUIX
    Boulevard de l’Amiral-Bruix, between Weber and Marbeau
    Wednesday & Saturday 7:00 AM to 2:30 PM
  • PRESIDENT WILSON
    Avenue du President-Wilson, between Debrousse and Place d’Iena
    Wednesday 7:00 AM to 2:30 PM; Saturday 7:00 AM to 3:00 PM
  • SAINT-DIDIER
    Corner of rue Mesnil and rue Saint-Didier
    Indoor market Tuesday to Saturday 8:00 AM to 1:30 PM Outdoor market Monday to Friday 8:00 AM to 7:30 PM; Saturday to 1:30 PM

​Other 16th information:

  • Metro Line 9 runs along the “spine” of the 16th Arrondissement, starting at station Franklin D Roosevelt in the 8th all the way out to the last station at Pont de Sevres.
  • Metro Line 6 cuts a little arc through the 16th from Etoile to Passy. Line 10 ends at Boulogne-St-Cloud in the east after making a few stops in the lower part of the arrondissement.
  • We forgot to mention the Statue of Liberty found in the middle of Pont de Grenelle.
  • The Aerodynamic Laboratory of Gustave Eiffel. Amazingly, this laboratory and wind tunnel is still operating after more than 100 years. It’s found at 67 Rue Boileau. It can only be visited in pre-arranged groups on Saturdays and Sundays – you must call in advance. 01 42 88 47 40.
  • Castel Béranger, designed in 1897 by the then-unknown Hector Guimard (later famous for his iron Metro entrances) can be seen at 34 Rue La Fontaine.
  • The last operating artesian well in Paris is located at Square Lamartine.
  • An obelisk to Benjamin Franklin commemorates the place he installed the first lighting conductor, or lightning rod, in France. 66 Rue Raynouard at Rue Singer.

Rue de Passy is one of the biggest and busiest shopping streets in the 16th, boasting an array of hot French boutiques, Passy Plaza (a mall comprising 26 shops) and the Franck & Fils department store. Known for its expensive, chic stores (including French mainstays: The Kooples, Zadig et Voltaire, Maje, and a three-story Isabel Marant) this street is brimming with rich Parisians and a smattering of Art Nouveau lovers.  But I am not here to shop!

The focus on these few days here will be tennis.  I will be rooting for the great champion, Naomi Osaka, as well as the few American stars.  But Mostly, I want to soak in the atmosphere at Roland Garros.