Lost Its Luster?

Posted by golfkat on June 4, 2023
Posted in: Action, Cultures, Sports. 2 Comments

Many of you, including Gen Z, Millennial’s, and such, have lost interest in the great American pastime, watching baseball during the summer.  But growing up in the 50s and 60s, baseball was about the only activity we could enjoy and participate in.  Long, hot summers in the Valley were punctuated by our youth baseball, and later with high school and college teams that traveled the Valley and State.

But what I refer to mostly is the “great move west” by the Dodgers and Giants to the west coast.  All of a sudden, we had baseball on the radio most every day during the long, hot summers.  And soon, my Dad, brother and I would drive to LA or San Francisco on a Sunday afternoon for ball game.  Needless to say, it was the highlight of our summer.

We got to spend the day with our Dad, go to a major league baseball game, see the great Willie Mays, and have a hot dog and soda.  On the drive home, we would often stop at nice places to eat, at Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco, or a rather upscale (at the time) restaurant on the main street of Tracy.

So, why is baseball losing its audience?  Are the Boomers like me are dying off, did we not pass the joy of summer baseball on to our children?  Is it because the NFL, NBA, and college sports have become larger than life?  Is it because baseball is relatively slow?  Is there too much baseball on television and cable?

Here is a rather controversial opinion about baseball.  I think the plethora of good foreign players, many of whom do not speak our language, are difficult to embrace.  Think of former greats, like Hall of Famer, Roberto Clemente, who became much more popular after he died in a plane crash.  But I do hold out hope that a transcendent figure like Shohei Ohtani can change that!

But I still love going to baseball games, particularly in San Diego where the weather is great.  And I follow my Giants on TV whenever I can.  I even saw an MLB game on TV in France!!!  Talk about strange!

Of course, nothing compares to the days when I went to the games with my Father.  Or when I went with my son.  We went to Spring Training, regular season games, an All-Star Game, and the World Series.

The Best Trip

Posted by golfkat on June 3, 2023
Posted in: Action, Cultures, Travel. Leave a comment

The other night at a group dinner, a friend asked about the best place I have ever been.  Here is my answer.

The tumbled, jungle-clad ruins of Angkor Thom are intensely atmospheric and have long lured travelers. The sprawling complex of temples, gates and monuments, decorated with carvings, was built between the 9th and 14th centuries, when the Khmer civilization was at the height of its power. The largest and most famous temple of them all is the breathtaking Angkor Wat – watching the sunrise as its striking silhouette is mirrored in the still waters of the reflection pool is the ultimate experience. The beautiful Bayon Temple, evocative jungle-strangled Ta Prohm and pink-sandstone Banteay Srei are other must-sees.

I have made the trek to Cambodia and Angkor Wat three times.  Ta Prohm is my favorite.  We now have friends there as well.  How did we ever decide to visit?

On our first trip to SE Asia, namely Bangkok, we were at a shabby lunch counter in a grocery store.  As we spoke to several other travelers, many asked us if we planned to visit Angkor Wat in Cambodia.  Guess what?  It became part of our itinerary on our next visit about a year later.

Little did we know that it would become my favorite place to visit in the entire world.

UNESCO’s brief description:  

Angkor, in Cambodia’s northern province of Siem Reap, is one of the most important archaeological sites of Southeast Asia. It extends over approximately 400 square kilometers and consists of scores of temples, hydraulic structures (basins, dykes, reservoirs, canals) as well as communication routes. For several centuries Angkor was the center of the Khmer Kingdom. With impressive monuments, several different ancient urban plans and large water reservoirs, the site is a unique concentration of features testifying to an exceptional civilization. Temples such as Angkor Wat, the Bayon, Preah Khan and Ta Prohm, exemplars of Khmer architecture, are closely linked to their geographical context as well as being imbued with symbolic significance. The architecture and layout of the successive capitals bear witness to a high level of social order and ranking within the Khmer Empire. Angkor is therefore a major site exemplifying cultural, religious and symbolic values, as well as containing high architectural, archaeological and artistic significance.

The park is inhabited, and many villages, some of whom the ancestors date back to the Angkor period are scattered throughout the park. The population practices agriculture and more specifically rice cultivation.

The complex includes 72 temples in over 400 acres.  Guiness considers it the world’s largest religious complex.

Just one aspect of the visit is difficult for me to imagine.  And that is what life was like back when this was built and first inhabited.

On the down side, Siem Reap has turned from a sleepy little village type of town to an “electric” avenue extravaganza, full of restaurants, food and trinket vendors, loud music, and too many tourists.  But it would never stop me from visiting again!

Train Over Plane

Posted by golfkat on May 30, 2023
Posted in: Action, Cultures, Entertainment, Food, Travel. Leave a comment

Many of you have questioned why I chose to use the train over the plane, both domestically, and in foreign countries.  The first and obvious answer is that it generally costs less.  And second, it produces a smaller carbon footprint.  And third, it generally starts and ends in the center of a city or town.  And in my opinion, more fun!

Fodor’s discusses the train option in greater detail.  My friend Katy who travels the world 365 days a year, always opts for the train or ship, and rarely flies.   Kudos to her!

New and updated rail networks are popping up all over the world.  Of course, there have been some rather horrendous rail accidents in the past few months, mostly with freight trains, but a few passenger trains as well.

The train is more predictable than the plane.  There are fewer encounters and rules, no TSA, no metal detectors, and I am free to bring bottled water, even champagne onto the train.  No security line!!

Train luggage allowance is more liberal than the plane, and costs less as well.  For short trips, your carry on will suffice.  For longer trips, check a larger bag focused on your destination, and use the carryon enroute for showers, sleep, and casual dressing.  Slippers are always a treat for me on longer train rides.

The seats are much more comfortable, and generally only two-wide.  And most recline to a comfortable angle.  Some have an adjustable footrest, some allow windows to open for fresh air, and most always, a very effective shade can be pulled down for privacy and comfort.  And workaholics can opt for a seat with a table for your laptop and other work material.

Superior service is a given, along with a lighter, more laidback mood on the train.  There are no limitations to refreshment time, potty time, or snack and mealtime.  And you can always bring your own.

First and Business class are more affordable than on a plane.  On long rides, a private roomette or cabin is most enjoyable.

No hidden fees, for things like baggage, or boarding time.  First class often includes meals, snacks, water, and even wine tasting.

The view from the ground allows a glimpse into everyday life.  The view from a plane tends toward cloudy skies, or large expanses of farmland and desert.  I particularly enjoy the views in far off places, like Siberia, Patagonia, Canada, and Peru.

Ahhhh, the sleeper car!  This is perhaps the best part of train travel.  And the bed is much more comfortable than anything on an airplane, short of a Singapore Airlines suite.

Less pre-travel time, just show up, as the train may arrive early, but cannot leave until its scheduled departure!  No TSA, no long baggage lines, no cattle call when boarding.  Train stations tend to be located in the center of most cities.

Less post-travel time, since the main train stations are in the center of the city.  And related travel infrastructure, like buses and subway/trams are more likely options, post flight.

The schedule is much more reliable than air travel.  In Japan, the bullet trains arrive and depart at the specified time.

Train bathrooms are much roomier.  Your forehead will appreciate it!

Moving freely is great, from the observation car to the dining car, to the movie car, to your own space.  Being able to walk the train from front to back is a lifesaver.

Generally, the train is a smoother ride, with no air turbulence!  And the comforting sound of clickety clack lends to the adventure and romance of train travel.

Train stations in many countries are showpieces of the city and the era.  Some are so magnificent, they become museums (Musee d’Orsay).  Even in the US, Denver, Washington DC, Grand Central are amazing sights.

Taking the train is a better option to experience what everyday life is for the locals.  I have much some amazing people on the train.

Tickets tend to be more flexible, can be upgraded or changed at the last minute.  I missed the Trans-Siberian Railway in Ekaterinburg, and was re-ticketed to a later train.

Most train operators have wi-fi now, except for Amtrak here in the U.S.  

Ride in style, the romantic era of trains are making a big comeback, from the Rocky Mountaineer in Canada to the Rovos Rail in South Africa.  

Here is my bottom line for you.  Try it once, and I think you will like it.  Even a relatively short haul, like the Coast Starlight here on the west coast will provide a nice introduction for you.  You will not regret it.

Odd Travel Observations

Posted by golfkat on May 27, 2023
Posted in: Action, Cultures, Food, Travel. Leave a comment

Why do we get labeled the ugly or privileged Americans??  Check out this gal taking up THREE seats in the crowded waiting area at C de Gaulle.  Wait, she is French!!!

But the loud American has long been passed by the loud Frenchman.  But now, I vote for the totally unfiltered Chinese tourists.  They figure we can’t understand a word and have carte Blanche to throw in the F word as well!!

I met the hardest working flight attendant on my Aegean Air flight from Paris to Athens.  She was the Everyready bunny and Harriet Nelson combined!!!

Those of you headed to Europe this summer, be warned.  This is the busiest I have seen Europe in the last 3 years.  And prices are still going up.  I would increase your budget by at least 33%.  Even the Cuban cigars I bought for a buddy went up about 30%!!

So, according to my Greek brothers, who are the worst tippers?  Asians, Canadians, Americans, the English?  No, by unanimous decision, it is the Aussies!!!

Thessaloniki takes a bit of patience, then when you find the great local places, all he’ll breaks loose, in a good way of course.  Hey, I even found real Turkish Delight!

I found THE local kabab place, totally by accident.  I wanted a beer to go with my cheese pie for lunch.  I saw the best kababs being consumed, only by locals.  I went back for dinner.  Kababs, tomato, onion, bread, friend potatoes, and an Alpha beer for about $12 Euro.

Huge numbers of smokers here, young, old, both sexes, ash trays everywhere!!  We are spoiled back home.  And that may explain why everyone coughs constantly here!

The evening stroll is alive and well here.

Still in Paris, not one of my favorite places, but soon headed to Athens to see my adopted Greek brothers.

Why would you pay more for a bottle of cologne than for a nice bottle of French champagne.  Vueve, Moet, and Deutz are all 45 Euros, and the stinky stuff is even more!!!  Even at duty free shops!!!

I stayed at the Moxy by Marriott at CDG Airport, which caters to young people.  But I saw mostly older travelers, and many foreigners.  Perhaps it is the lower price, free breakfast, cool and minimalist interiors, or ??  But I would recommend Moxy to all of you.

So, the loudest travelers are not Americans or Europeans.  They are Chinese!!  They have no “eff” in filter!!!

I also hate being greeted with “nihau”, so I correct whoever said it!!!

One of my Greek brothers moved out of Athens for a new job.  I am going to take the train or bus to visit him.  He also is looking for a new girlfriend, as she would not leave Athens.

Hotels in Europe are back to cleaning and changing the sheets every day!!!

The economy here is going quite well, but I do see several businesses have either changed hands, upgraded, or closed, much like elsewhere in the world, post covid.

In the Athens Aegean Air lounge, nice food.  But best of all, shuttle bus arrives at door when time to board!!!  And Biz class gets bussed over first, both on and off the plane!!!

Would you believe Greek ballads sound like Mariachi?  I swear, I thought I was in LA or San Diego.

Surprise, surprise.  My friend and Greek brother, George (Giordos) came down to visit his former co-workers here in Athens.  He may join me for dinner tonight.

Question:  Name something worse than the USPS???  The Greek postal system, makes molasses look like fast!!!

I was up until midnight last night.  My food, wine and eco-cycle tour in Crete was simply magnificent. My new Crete friends invited me to their village on my next visit!!  I met the Human ATM machine, Alexander the Great, and Chris, the financier/developer from San Diego.

Back to Paris for the day, and on to Clermont Auvergne for more wine tasting, cycling, and long days of food and wine.  Maybe I will find the perfect escargot???  I did at Brasserie Madeleine.

Odd sighting on Paris metro today.  Middle aged bald white dude gives his seat to African lady and her daughter.  Never would happen back home!!

But in contrast, as we boarded my flight to Auverge, nobody would help this African lady with a baby in one hand, and her roller bag in another.  So despite my carryon stuff, I walked up and carried her bag down to boarding area.  Many young strong men there, but the oldest guy there had to help her!

Paris is really busy with tourists!!  And I encountered no bullsh*t this time!!!

Why do the little twits here wear a jacket size too small??

So, white sneakers are still a big deal here, adults, teens, and of course, the ubiquitous tourists.  And many of the sneakers are the old style Converse Chuckie Taylor style.

Not once today did anyone check my train tickets!!  Free rail trips in Europe for all??  No wonder France is having so many issues!

I had a bowl of what the French call poke’.  It was really a paper bowl of rice with some stuff on top.  The best part was the teriyaki sauce!  My bad for thinking it could be edible!!

I take back what I said about French tourists.  They are still numero uno in obnoxious behavior!  Chinese a strong runner up.

The Muslims here feel great discrimination.  I met an Algerian fellow last night at dinner.  We had quite a conversation.  When I told him about not getting a haircut in town until I was in junior high, he went bonkers.  He thought discrimination didn’t exist in the US!!!

I can’t wait to get out of sleepy, comatose southern France.  I would have left after the 1st day, but most hotels now are nonrefundable!!  Being here is like watching paint dry in the cold of winter!!!

I knew I should stay in Crete or head to the Balkans.  My bad, very, very bad!

So cafe culture is big here.  But notice the old people dine inside, the young smokers outside??

Big elections coming here.  I see a few little rallies and protests.  Nothing dangerous.  Nobody seems to care.

Two long train rides yesterday to arrive in Frankfurt.   But I saw Sting this morning!!

It seems Europe has a goodly share of recent African immigrants compared to the US.

A guy asked me despite my perfect German, if I was from Korea!  I told him I was an American of Japanese ancestry.  He was in total disbelief!!!

Country roads, take me home, to the place, I belong!!!

So glad to be home.  I missed my three crazies!!!  And I think they missed me.

PS:  This is probably my last trip to Europe.  I really need to get back to South America, and of course, Asia.

Crete, Largest Greek Island

Posted by golfkat on May 18, 2023
Posted in: Travel, Food, Cultures, Action. Leave a comment

From MSN/Mediafeed:

The largest of the Greek islands, Crete is another fantastic warm winter destination in Europe, enjoying mild temperatures during the winter months, with an average temperature of 59°F to 68°F. Crete is also home to fantastic beaches, ancient ruins, and picturesque villages.

Crete is the largest island in Greece and the fifth largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. There is so much to learn about Crete:

Crete is believed to be one of the oldest civilizations in Europe, with evidence of human habitation dating back over 130,000 years.

The island is known for its beautiful beaches, crystal-clear waters, and stunning mountain landscapes.

Crete has a rich cultural heritage, with influences from ancient Minoan civilization, Byzantine culture, and Venetian and Ottoman rule.

The island is home to several important archaeological sites, including the Palace of Knossos, the ancient city of Phaistos, and the ruins of Gortyna.

Crete is famous for its traditional cuisine, which features a range of dishes made with fresh local ingredients, including seafood, olive oil, and honey.

The island is also known for its wine production, with several indigenous grape varieties being used to produce unique and flavorful wines.

Crete is home to several stunning natural landmarks, including the Samaria Gorge, the White Mountains, and the Elafonisi Beach, which has pink sand.

The island has a rich tradition of music and dance, with several unique styles of Cretan music and traditional dances.

Crete is home to several rare and endangered species of flora and fauna, including the Cretan wildcat and the kri-kri, a type of wild goat.

The island has a vibrant and colorful festival calendar, including the Carnival of Rethymnon, the Feast of Saint Titus, and the Wine Festival of Archanes.

One stupid question:  Do they call the locals Cretans or Cretians??

Palace of Knossus

Posted by golfkat on May 18, 2023
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Did I ever think I would visit the famous Palace of Knossus when I took Classics 17AB at UC Berkeley in the 60s?  No, we only took the class to fulfill the humanities requirement, and pad the old GPA, if you know what I mean.

From Live Science:

The Palace of Knossos is located just south of modern-day Heraklion near the north coast of Crete. Built by a civilization that we call the Minoans, it covers about 150,000 square feet (14,000 square meters), the size of more than two football fields, and was surrounded by a town in antiquity. The site came to prominence in the early 20th century when it was excavated and restored by a team led by British archaeologist Arthur Evans.

When the palace was first constructed “it must have been a remarkable sight, quite unlike anything seen on Crete before,” writes J. Lesley Fitton in her book “Minoans (Peoples of the Past)(opens in new tab)” (British Museum Press, 2002). She notes that although other settlements on Crete around this time built palaces of their own, none were as large as Knossos. “Knossos perhaps began as a ‘first among equals,’ and the relationship between the powerful groups that built the palaces may not have been entirely friendly.” The position of Knossos was not accidental, and Fitton notes that it lines up with a sanctuary located at Mount Juktas to the south. 

The chronology of the palace is a matter of scholarly debate. Construction of the palace appears to have begun around 1950 B.C., although there may have been structures predating it. This “first palace” (as it is sometimes called) was damaged (likely by earthquakes) around 1700 B.C. and a second palace was built on top of it. Recently, however, scholars have called into question how extensively this “first palace” was damaged, write researchers Colin Macdonald and Carl Knappett in a chapter of the book “Intermezzo: Intermediacy and Regeneration in Middle Minoan III Palatial Crete(opens in new tab)” (British School at Athens, 2013). The papers published in their book raise the possibility that rather than a “first” and “second” palace, there were several phases of renovation and change that occurred over a period of centuries.

You can google the rest.  I am here on Crete for the first time.  I also plan to visit the nearby Iraklio wine country.  In fact, that is why I am here.  We are about twenty miles south of the city of Heraklion (Iraklio).  Some of the famous names associated with Knossus, as you may recall from your history or Latin classes:  King Minos, Zeus, Poseidon, Theseus and the Minotaur, Ariadne, Daedulus, Icarus, and Pasiphae.

My main goal is to visit the Iraklio Wine region.

Iraklio Wine Region

Posted by golfkat on May 17, 2023
Posted in: Action, Cultures, Food, Travel, Wine. Leave a comment

One of the primary reasons for visiting Crete is the Iraklio (Heraklion) Wine Region.

Heraklion is the capital of Crete and produces some of the most notable wines in Greece. The wine region is regarded as a top wine region in Greece, producing great wines that must be sampled. The region is home to almost two-thirds of Crete’s vineyards. The Heraklion wine area accounts for 80% of overall wine production in Crete. To discover this unique region, the territory is divided into four different PDOs and two major wine routes. The Minoan Megaron, one of the world’s oldest wine presses, is located in the deserted village of Vathypetro near Peza. In the Heraklion wine region, you are never too far away from a local winery. 

Heraklion is the largest city on the island of Crete, located in southeast Greece. The Aegean Sea surrounds the wine area from the north and south. Lassithi is located to the east, and Rethymnon is located to the west. To make it easier for visitors, the wineries are coordinated, and there are road signs along the wine route. The majority of the wineries are concentrated near Archanes, Peza, and Dafnoneno. Wine tourism is thriving in the Heraklion wine region, allowing visitors to interact with local wineries and get to know the region better. Some prominent sights along the wine routes are the Minoan Palace of Knossos, the Nikos Kazantzakis Museum at Myrtia, the Monastery of Agarathos, and Saint George Epanosifi.

The wines of Crete are among some of the most prestigious drinks in the Greek market. And there are more wine varieties than you can count. Wherever you go in Crete, you won’t be far from a local winery, especially in the region of Heraklion. Keep reading to discover the top wineries in Heraklion.  Liatiko, Dafni, Muscat of Spina, Malvasia di Candia, Pluto, Romeiko, Vilana, Vidiano, Thrapsathiri, Athiri, Kotsifali, and Mandilaria are the most common grape types in the Heraklion wine area. Cabernet Sauvignon is another foreign grape variety grown in Heraklion. White wines are often dry, with rich scents of sweet apple and apricot, as well as a fruity aftertaste, and are ideally served as a summer wine.

I am taking a combination tour of Knossus and Iraklio.

There are more than 11 distinctive local grape varieties and they all play a role in raising the profile of Cretan wines.  Most of the wines produced on the island, especially, on the west side are fresh and aromatic white wines. Vidiano, for instance, a rising Cretan wine is often referred to as a Greek Viognier.  Two of the most popular red wines from local varieties are Kostifali and Mandilari. They are often blended, though we did try them as single varieties

There are four Protected Designation of Origin areas in Heraklion that can be split into two wine routes: Archanes (reds) and Peza (whites and reds) on the road south-east beyond Knossos; Dafnes (reds) on the road southwest towards Phaistos; and Malvasia Handakas – Candia (whites) found along both routes.

I will let you know if the wine here is better than the mainland or Santorini.

Zorba, the Crete

Posted by golfkat on May 16, 2023
Posted in: Action, Cultures, Entertainment, Travel. Leave a comment

The largest (fifth largest in the Mediterranean Sea) and southernmost island in Greece is none other than Crete.  Crete’s most famous author, Nikos Kazantzakis, wrote Zorba the Greek.  His words:  “The mystery of Crete runs deep. Whoever sets foot on this island senses a mysterious force coursing warmly and beneficently through their veins, sensing their soul beginning to grow.”

Crete is long and narrow, from east to west only 160 miles, and a width of 7.5 to 37 miles.  The administrative center is Heraklion.  The island is home to roughly 600,000 people.

As you might guess, the service sector, aka tourism is the largest portion of the GDP.  Only a third of Crete’s land can be cultivated, with olives, grapes, vegetables and fruit grown here.  Due to overfishing, fishing is focused on local needs rather than exporting.

If you recall your Greek mythology, you remember that the Palace of Knossus was once the center of the Minoan civilization.  And the Heraklion Archaeology Museum covers 5500 years of Cretan (is that polite or politically correct?) history.  Speaking of Heraklion, it is home to ancient Cretan vineyards, which as been producing wine for over 4000 years!

Chania is the largest city and known for its local charm, Agora marketplace, and harbor.  Crete’s most famous national park is Samaria Gorge.  And can you believe there is a former leper colony on Spinalonga Island?  The island was the scene of Arab raids, Venetian conquering, and Ottoman occupation.

But for me, Crete is best known for its taverns, which provide affordable options for lunch and dinner.  In fact, it is the quintessential Crete experience according to my friends. The very best is Gramboussa on the extreme northwest coast.  Most are family owned, and feature homemade bread.

Speaking of food, bougatsa is also popular on Crete.  The phyllo dough is filled with cheese or custard, then topped honey, sugar, or cinnamon, and paired with a cup of strong Greek coffee.  Cretan raki is also something else to try here.  After the winemaming season, people distill tsikoudia, a high alcohol volume drink, often served with appetizers before dinner, or with fruit and yogurt as a dessert.

So, I will fly to Crete from Thessaloniki, with a stop in Athens to change planes.

Can You Say Thessaloniki?

Posted by golfkat on May 14, 2023
Posted in: Action, Cultures, Entertainment, Food, Travel. Leave a comment

The second largest city in Greece is Thessaloniki, in the far north.  It is known for its fabulous food, rich cultural heritage, and beautiful scenery.  It is a year round destination, known for its youthful energy, ancient archaeological sites, and bustling port.

Also known as Salonika, or Saloniki, is home to some of the greatest musicians, poets, thinkers, and artists.

First, let’s start each morning with some bougatsa, flaky layers of filo pastry, with warm custard filling, then topped with cinnamon and powdered sugar.  The recipes at each bakery are a deep, family secret.  But best of all, a cup of strong Greek coffee goes perfectly each morning.

But don’t stop at breakfast.  The restaurants here are known for their creative street food, as well as fine dining.  The flavors are bold, and pair perfectly with the abundant agriculture surrounding the city.  Most restaurants create their own spin on traditional, mixed meze dishes, but always with the local wine.

The big shopping district here is Tsimiski Street, with big brands and boutiques mixed in.  Here, jewelry, handbags and unique clothing appeal to the younger set.  Bezesteni Market is the place for spices, sweets and kitchen goods.

Somewhat uniquely, Thessaloniki has a museum for every period of their history.  For the ancient Greek and Roman period, visit the Thessaloniki Archaeological Museum.  The Museum of Byzantine Culture features mosaics and iconography.  And the Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art emphasizes the creative heart of the city and area.

To my liking, the Promenade is the city’s best asset.  The seaside location is perfect for an evening stroll with an ice cream in hand, harbor cruises, and ferries to ports far and near.

Thessaloniki is one of the most beautiful cities in Greece.  Eptapyrgio Castle is the perfect place to see the city lights.  White Tower on the seafront was a brutal prison, now a museum with stunning views.

Ano Poli, or the Upper Town, is the historic neighborhood that escaped the Great Fires of 1917.  Here, many Ottoman era homes remain, along with numerous tavernas, such as Tixo Tixo attract locals and tourists.

But street food is fast, cheap and authentic here.  Souvlaki, skewers of pork or chicken, served alone or as a wrap, is the popular choice.  A side of tzatziki (yogurt dip with cucumber) or tirokafteri (spicy cheese dip) pair perfectly.  

The city boasts a strong Jewish history, with a synagogue and museum.  Having once boasted over 50,000 Jewish people, 95% were killed during the Holocaust.  The community numbers only about 1500 today.

Speaking of parties, the Valaoritou district is the city’s happening spot for parties and clubbing.  

Local wine is found nearby at Ktima Gerovassilou, a vineyard and wine museum with 720 acres.  But save yourself for the local tsipouro, a 40-45% alcohol of distilled spirit, a traditional un-aged brandy.

From their website:  Thessaloniki is easy to fall in love with – it has beauty, chaos, history and culture, a remarkable cuisine and wonderful, vast sea views!  Findings prove that Thessaloniki has been inhabited since prehistoric times, marked by multiculturalism, yet its present-day modernized state is charmingly intertwined with archaeological sites, byzantine churches and other significant monuments from the past!

I think you can tell I will be busy for a few days here.  My approach here is simple, a more manageable version of Athens.  Everyone says it is a great place to visit!

Love that Feta

Posted by golfkat on May 12, 2023
Posted in: Action, Cultures, Food, Travel. 1 Comment

Now, on my fourth trip to Greece, and Athens, I should tell you something about feta.  You may be surprised by some of this information, as I was.  The ubiquitous Greek salad always contains feta, either crumbled, in chunks, or in a large block.  Needless to say, I almost always order a Greek salad at dinner, or maybe have the Greek salad for lunch by itself.

From Culinary Backstreets:

Feta must be one of the world’s oldest cheeses, it’s certainly one of the most famous, and it’s practically never missing from a Greek table, no matter the time of day. A person might grab a chunk of this chalk-white substance for breakfast, crunch through layers of feta-stuffed phyllo for elevenses, put a slab of it on her village salad for lunch, have it for supper along with a vegetable casserole and then pair it with watermelon for a scrumptious dessert. The only other food that a Greek may be even more addicted to is bread.

If you were to guess which nation boasted the most cheese eaters on the planet, surely you would say France, home to so many delectable and sophisticated fromages. Not so fast! Ilias Mamalakis, in his lively and informative dissertation on Greek Cheese, published in 1999, claimed that Greeks gobbled up 23 kilos per person, whereas the French ate a whole kilo less. More recent (Greek-sourced) data raises that figure to 25 kilos, almost a pound a week.

Feta is a curd cheese made with ewe’s milk, sometimes mixed with up to 30 percent goat’s milk, never cow’s. Although this was the standard recipe for millennia in Greece, sheep and goats being better adapted to the country’s rugged landscape, production guidelines and definitions were established by Greece in 1988 and by the EU in 1996. In 2002 the EU finally recognized Greece as the only member state entitled to call its white brined cheese feta. The Danish imitation made with cow’s milk had to change its name. (You can google how to make feta yourself)

So if you happen to be in Athens, do treat yourself to a tasting session at Kostarelos, which has a large selection of cheeses from all over the country in addition to their own, as well as other products from small producers, from herbal teas to smoked meats, homemade pastas to jams, sauces and sweets. It is also an attractive place to grab a bite and a glass of wine. The menu – like a small catalog – was devised by a well-known chef, Chrysanthos Karamolegos, and has dozens of selections of tempting salads, dips, hot and cold sandwiches and platters of cold cuts and cheeses, at extremely reasonable prices. 

I don’t eat much feta at home, but I probably should.  But the feta is best in Greece.  Go to Greece instead!  I am.